New and approved: Marlowe, Christchurch

Kathryn Chung recommends the classy new kid on the block in downtown Christchurch.

What is it?

Marlowe is the classy new kid on the block in central Ōtautahi. It’s a European-style bistro that’s owned and operated by a well-known Christchurch hospo team: head chef Olly Le Maitre and general manager Santiago Burgos. 

Le Maitre previously headed up the kitchen at Black Estate up in Waipara. The winery restaurant earned two Cuisine hats during his tenure so it's safe to say he brings some solid credentials to his new venture.

With big developments to the CBD like the One New Zealand stadium and a steadily growing population, the arrival of this stylish new spot feels like a sign of the city’s evolving food scene (don’t worry, Smash Palace is still around the corner for late-night beers and a boogie).

Where is it?

Right in the city on the corner of High and Manchester streets. It’s a short walk from Alice Cinema and the One New Zealand stadium, making it a classy dinner option before a match or movie. 

What's new about it?

The whole thing!

After a pop-up at nearby Rambler and appearance at the Fire and Feast food festival, there was plenty of buzz about Marlowe when it opened in mid September. A month in, the Monday-night dining room was ticking along nicely, with a decent number of tables occupied.

What are the vibes?

Marlowe leans into a polished, European vibe but it's thankfully not too stuffy. The staff, dressed casually in T-shirts, are energetic and warm, and the owners point out that they want to “make people feel like they're in good hands from the moment they walk through the door".

Located on the ground floor of a four-storey building, it feels like there was a pretty decent price tag behind the fit-out. Dark wood, stone tables and pleated curtains give it that modern bistro feel, while the moody lighting lends itself well when the sun goes down. It feels a little flashy but in a fun way, with monogrammed napkins and glassware – they’ve even branded their logo on the burger bun. 

Seating 100, it has a big footprint, with a massive bar in the centre and an open kitchen overlooking the whole restaurant. You can choose to sit up at the kitchen bar and watch the chefs or at one of the dining room seats. There are a few outdoor tables for martinis in the sun, and a cosy little corner bar next to the kitchen. 

What should I order?

The menu has French and Italian influences, with classics like steak frites and duck liver and pork terrine available for lunch. 

We booked a table for dinner and opted to go a la carte, though the three or four-course set menus seem like a good option if you want to avoid decision-making. 

There are some nice smoky flavours dotted throughout the menu, like the charred flatbread (though more of a bun in my opinion), and burnt mandarin alongside the kingfish crudo.

The starters were the real standout, in particular the venison tartare, made moreish with a mushroom cream. The rock oysters, paired with a chardonnay mignonette, were super fresh and went down nicely with a glass of chenin blanc. One of the restaurant's most noticeable features is the big fridges of dry-ageing fish, so I was keen to try the market fish main (kahawai). It had a subtle smokiness from the grill that worked well with the bright, citrusy green goddess sauce and was generous enough to share between two. 

Marlowe also does desserts really well. We tried a decadent miso tiramisu special that I’m hoping makes a return. 

The drinks list is pretty extensive, ranging from local Waipara wines to French champagnes. Having recently discovered a new love of vermouth, I was very happy to see a dedicated vermouth list too. The cocktail list is creative without feeling too gimmicky. I was intrigued to try one with sesame oil-washed whisky and found it to be strong, delicious and well balanced. 

What'll it set me back?

Lunch mains range between $28-$40, with the option of a $75pp two course set menu. 

For dinner, the set menus start at $95pp. Entrees are priced between $16-$29, while the mains will set you back between $32 and $105.

Marlowe

211 High Street, Christchurch Central

Mon-Fri, 11.30am-9.30pm; Sat-Sun, 11.30am-10.30pm