Nocturnalists: Shane Liu on finding balance and doing business after dark
Sumthin' Dumplin's Shane Liu at Chom Na Thai Food, Lorne St. (Photo: Sophie Miya-Smith)
The Nocturnalists series shines a light on Auckland after dark. Restaurateurs and chefs, comedians and creatives, performers and punters – Nocturnalists are spirited members of Auckland’s nighttime scene. In this series, they take us on a tour of their favourite spots and all this city has to offer after 5pm. Sumthin’ Dumplin’ founder Shane Liu has carved a niche in the food scene. He walks us through the secrets to a good business dinner, where to take your parents and how he finds peace in the dark.
Photos by Sophie Miya-Smith shot on location at Sumthin’ Dumplin’ and Chom Na Thai Food, both on Lorne Street.
Shane Liu might be the ultimate Nocturnalist. Staying up late and getting up early, the hospitality entrepreneur makes the most of the darkness – there’s even a tattoo of the moon on his ankle. Over the past decade Liu’s learned to channel his energy, pouring it into the family business, Sumthin’ Dumplin’, his health and a daily meditation practice. That’s not to say he doesn’t have fun – when asked about his favourite destination (Gilt) his eyes light up and praise pours out. Liu also extols the benefits of private dining rooms and protein and shares some unexpected advice for young Aucklanders.
OK Shane, what would your dream night out in Auckland look like?
I like to go eat some meat… We went to this wagyu place recently, Kureta [on Albert Street], a Japanese place that’s really hidden.
And where would you go for a drink?
Probably one of the rooftop bars, like Queens, the one above Commercial Bay.
Queens Rooftop seems to be super popular with our Nocturnalists. What other spots do you rate downtown?
I like the Britomart area and how it’s been managed. I’m a fan of Amano. The utilisation of space is fantastic – dinner, lunch, breakfast, bakery, cafe. Genius. The service is good and the food is affordable as well, for what you get. I think it's fair. It's more than fair actually: it's great.
Any favourites on the menu?
The salad. I always say salad! I swear I’m not a herbivore. They had this spicy beetroot and chocolate salad a while ago, with sriracha.
What about a date, where would you head for that?
Huami [at SkyCity] is quite good. I like somewhere private too, so maybe Caretaker.
It’s so intimate. OK let’s keep this hypothetical date night going and make it a staycation, where are you taking your wife?
The Park Hyatt. It’s simple but meets global standards. That’s a benchmark. I also like Sofitel Auckland in the Viaduct Harbour, they’ve been good to me. There’s a nice pool and I like to use the gym, sauna and the spa – it’s a nice weekend thing to do.
What about shopping, any spots you’d like to recommend?
Shakes, which used to be on Vulcan Lane. I love the owner Leon, he’s so nice… my jackets from Leon last like nine years.
He’s been slinging clothes in the city for years.
I’ve also bought a few pieces from Edit, also on Vulcan Lane.
Where would you go to dine alone?
I eat alone all the time. If I’m treating myself… it’s The White Lady – give me a sloppy burger. But I also like the seafood at Kingi in Britomart.
Let’s talk Sumthin’ Dumplin’. Your first store opened on O’Connell Street in 2018, followed by another on Lorne Street not long after. Why did you open that second location nearby?
The city was so busy, it just made sense. It was so hard to deal with all of our traffic in that one little location, so we thought, let's just split it up. Both stores have a different catchment. Lorne Street is a little more studenty.
How’s night-time trade been?
It's been up and down over the last couple of years, but it's getting better and we’re certainly building it up… slow and steady wins the race.
Lorne Street in particular has evolved into an after-dark dining destination. All the leases are skewing more towards food and drink now and people go there for the food.
It’s become a little Chinatown.
Do you think Lorne Street should embrace that status officially?
I used to have this idea that eventually, you know, with a bit of consent, we could chuck up the arches. And it's already got that red tower [Choice Plaza, designed by Ron Sang for the Chan family], so it suits.
What’s contributed to Lorne Street becoming a dining destination?
I suppose it's the catchment and the foot traffic, right? You’ve got Aotea Square, The Civic and you’ve got the university. If you think about the heart of the city now, it's probably [this area].
Do you have any favourite spots?
Chom Na Thai Food. There are a couple of things I really like: one is the num tok chicken and one is the grilled beef, with extra chilli.
Have you tried the kumara balls they do?
Yeah, I had some the other day, they’re really good. I think Chom Na Thai’s food is good because the mum cooks… It's very similar to our business: mum, dad, brother, multiple sisters. They just keep going and going and going, and I know what it's like doing business on Lorne Street.
Speaking of family, where would you take your parents out for dinner?
I like Gilt, Josh Emett’s place. The service is great, they know me, they know my dad… And the inside of Gilt really looks like my house with the soft, beigey wood with the green – it just feels familiar. I like Josh as a person. I love what it’s about. The food is simple, it's not overpowering in terms of flavours and it's relatively natural. My favourite item on the menu is the simple salad.
Really? Salad?!
The salad!
And what else are you ordering?
Wagyu steak. And the crab pasta – the king crab pappardelle. I also like their salt cod croquettes.
They also do a baked Alaska for dessert, which is divine. It’s such a good restaurant.
And they have that dining room at the back, I love that room.
Why?
The privacy aspect. It’s just my culture; other than dining with family and friends, business is done in these dining rooms too. In [Chinese] culture a lot of business is done between family, friends and acquaintances – it's all mixed. And that’s the case in a lot of Eastern cultures… that's why private dining spaces are great.
Any tips for a good business dinner?
Eat the food. Pick up the chopsticks and eat the food… It's also good to let the oldest person pay first, even if it's between family and friends.
You've been in business for nearly a decade now, have you noticed Aucklanders’ after-dark behaviour changing?
Alcohol isn’t as popular as it was, that’s a big cultural change globally. And then consumer behaviour has changed as well. Once upon a time we'd walk on the street, we might be out with our friends and say: “That looks like a great restaurant, let's go and eat.” Now, there's Uber Eats.
The customer journey has changed right?
So much. And that's changed overseas as well, even in Asia.
With all of that in mind, what's motivating people to leave the house now?
I think events and entertainment, whether it's a concert or a sports match. Or plays. Recently we went out – and ate a meal – because we watched that Alice in Wonderland show, Cirque Alice, at The Civic. It was great and so good to be in the city. Also, the City Rail Link – that does help [get people out]. I’ve seen it help.
You work a lot, how do you unwind at the end of the day?
I spend a lot of time meditating. I go to the beach. It’s also nice to sit by the wharf by Wynyard Quarter… If you’re new to meditating you probably need peace, but I don’t.
Would you call yourself a night owl?
When I’m super aligned, I can live off five hours’ sleep really well. I don’t get tired.
Wow. How do you feel about the night in general?
Well, I have a moon tattooed on my ankle.
So you’re clearly a fan.
[The dark makes me feel] peaceful, if you can get over it and really pay attention to yourself… You’ve got to be out at night and sitting with the darkness. You have to acknowledge it’s there.
What else do you appreciate about nighttime in Auckland?
I love that it’s not as busy as Sydney. It's quiet. You do have to look for the spots… and there is beauty in that.
Is there any other advice you want to share?
There is something I’d like to say to the young people out there… just have some fun and make some mistakes. Get out there and go to the clubs again. Some of the best memories I have are when you’re out with your friends, celebrating nothing. So go out and spend your money. You don’t have to join every run club when you're 19 or 20. You don’t have to run around Tāmaki Drive at three in the morning.
People do that?
Yeah… Go eat some ice cream, get Giapo – it’s great!
This content was created in paid partnership with Auckland by Night. Ready to become a Nocturnalist? Head to Discover Auckland to find out what that the Auckland city centre has to offer after 5pm.
Emma Gleason
Emma Gleason is a staff writer at The Spinoff and an award-winning fashion journalist. But it’s not just clothes that interest her, you’ll find her exploring tasty cheese, influenza outbreaks and more important things right here. She has experience with some of the country’s leading media outlets as well as the toaster in our kitchen.