It’s in dubious taste as an emoji and some would say as a vegetable too. But in the latter case, at least, it’s grossly underestimated. 

Reviled by many in Aotearoa, the eggplant or aubergine seems to be one of the most disliked vegetables (OK, yes, technically it’s a fruit; let it go). And I’m not just talking about children who only like pasta with grated cheese – many adults also wrinkle their nose at the mention of this versatile veg.

In many other countries, the eggplant is a culinary hero. Classic dishes from cuisines as diverse as Italy, Lebanon, Japan, Turkey, Greece and India all revolve around the eggplant. 

So why don’t we also celebrate this gleaming nightshade? I wager that it’s because many of us don’t really know how to cook eggplant. We look at this marvellous purple-skinned beauty, and beyond aesthetic appreciation, our minds draw a blank. Do we eat the skin? (Sure can.) Do we need to sweat out the liquid using salt? (Not really.) Do you chop it up, or…?

That’s why it’s eggplant week: to share the hidden charms of this edible underdog.

Where to find it 

At time of writing, a single dark purple eggplant is $4.79 at Countdown, $3.99 at New World and a pretty reasonable $2.99 at Pak’nSave. Some Pak’nSave stores are also selling multipacks of a long pink-skinned variety from Fiji at $6.49. 

Other than the standard dark purple globe eggplant, these can also be white; pale purple; long, slim and green – or purple; and like small pale green marbles. You can find these at Asian grocery stores on occasion, if you want to experiment. 

If you’re into gardening, you’re in luck – these warming early November days are the perfect time to plant eggplant seedlings of your own. 

How to make it terrible

Haters have good reason for their unfriendly sentiments toward the eggplant. Like brussels sprouts, eggplant is one of those vegetables that is often cooked terribly, and has huge potential for awfulness. Underdone, it’s spongy and dry. Overdone, it’s unswallowable mush. And however you cook an eggplant, if it’s unseasoned it’s going to be flavourless and uninspiring. 

Usually in Aotearoa, we just slice eggplant up and throw it on the barbecue, like the vegetarian alternative to a steak. Sadly, a slice of barbecued eggplant is nothing like a steak. Personally, I don’t think eggplant slices belong on a barbecue at all (hot take). The barbecuing process is too dry, and eggplant isn’t a “throw it on” sort of fellow. Eggplants require a little care and tenderness to lure out their good side. 

Also – never eat one raw. I’ve never tried to, but I can only imagine bad things.

Before I completely turn you off with all of these neggy words, let’s move swiftly onward and upward to the part where eggplant becomes your new favourite vegetable. 

How to make it amazing

Why do I advocate for this unpopular veg? Because when done right, eggplant melts in your mouth and is a vehicle for pure, unadulterated flavour. Think of the eggplant as a blank canvas. On its own, dull – but also full of creative potential.

I can barely choose a favourite eggplant dish – there are so many contenders, and I love them all dearly. Babaganoush (Levantine, a smoky blitzed dip). Ratatouille (French, stewed with capsicum, tomatoes and zucchini). Moussaka (Greek, lasagne-adjacent). Parmigiana (Italian… also lasagne-adjacent). Baingan bharta (Indian, grilled and minced as a curry). Imam bayildi (Turkish, stuffed). Nasu Dengaku (Japanese, miso-glazed). 

I’ve made eggplant parmigiana burgers, ratatouille, cheddar and miso grilled eggplant, bolognese and eggplant lasagne, and falafel and fried eggplant pitas, all to great effect. Fried, roasted, or grilled, and treated lovingly with enough oil and salt – done right, an eggplant has never let me down. 

Each of these various meals has a claim to being the most delicious way to cook an eggplant, and they all have a few things in common: plenty of added flavour – spices, salt, sauces, garlic – and often quite a generous dollop of cooking fats. I advocate trying them all.

For those just beginning to explore the possibilities of the aubergine realm, I recommend this sublime fried eggplant and tomato spaghetti. You only need six ingredients, it’s cheap to make, absolutely delicious, and has converted many people I know to the joys of eggplant (myself included). Thinly sliced, then fried in a good dose of oil until soft, melty, tender and golden brown, lightly sprinkled with salt… So much goodness. 

The only problem is trying not to eat too much of the fried eggplant before it makes its way into the pasta.

Wyoming Paul is the co-founder of Grossr, a meal kit alternative through your supermarket.