Where to go for cheap eats in Auckland central – and where to splurge

The Nocturnalists series shines a light on Auckland after dark. Restaurateurs and chefs, comedians and creatives, performers and punters – Nocturnalists are spirited members of Auckland’s nighttime scene. In this series, they reveal all this city has to offer after 5pm. We asked some about favourite places for a fast fix and fancy night out.

Dining in Auckland often straddles two ends of the spectrum. There’s day-to-day eating, when only something as delicious as it is cheap will do. Sometimes, however, there’s something to celebrate, in which case you might be inclined to pull out all the stops – order a degustation menu and a bottle of Champagne, or pay for your mum’s meal. Luckily for us, this city is blessed with a plethora of delicious food at all price brackets (it’s why Nocturnalists is such a bountiful series). 

There’s another factor to consider while sizing up options for dinner: value for money. A truly good cheap eat isn’t just defined by price, it has to deliver on portion size too. For both, I head to Xi’An Food Bar on Anzac Ave, where I’ll order number 25 (hand-pulled noodles with spicy chilli oil) or 301 (spicy and hot beef soup with hand-pulled noodles) because both are under $16, as is most of the menu. Or I’ll visit Celine, a Mediterranean restaurant on Darby Street that stays open until 11pm and serves an incredible shawarma that’s the size of my forearm. For special occasions, I can’t go past Gemmayze Street’s jeeb, a set menu of sublime food that you can enjoy in the historic surrounds of St Kevins Arcade. I’ve been recommending all three for years.

Word of mouth continues to be the best place to find out what’s good in Tāmaki Makaurau, so we asked some of our Nocturnalist alumni where they go for a cheap meal and for a splurge.

Jono Thevenard

For an affordable meal out, Pici chef and restaurateur Jono Thevenard recommends Gojo Ethiopian. “They have a new spot on Queen Street, and it’s so delicious.” (The family run business, which started with a New Lynn branch, opened a city centre spot last December.) “You get this huge plate covered with all sorts of different dishes, along with a massive injera flatbread to scoop everything up with,” Thevenard says. “It’s also amazing for vegans and vegetarians.”

When splashing out on a high-end meal, Thevenard loves Josh Emett’s restaurant Gilt on the corner of O’Connell and Chancery streets. “It strikes a fantastic balance between feeling fancy while still being relaxed, with friendly service that always makes you feel special.” The wine list is a particular drawcard. “The sommelier will come over and genuinely help you find the right bottle for the situation. It’s the kind of restaurant that makes Auckland a proper big city.”

His other splurge recommendation is Tempero on K' Road. "I went on Halloween and was blown away by the skill and finesse in every dish. There were so many interesting Brazilian dishes and flavour combinations I hadn’t experienced before, and the service was fantastic. A few tastings of different cachaças and a caipirinha brought me straight back to my time in Rio."

Poi Eruera

Poi Eruera, operations manager at Odettes Eatery and Hugo’s Bistro, knows her way around a high end restaurant. She also knows glamour. For special occasions, she recommends another Josh Emett restaurant. “Onslow gives a super special, luxe experience,” Eruera says. It’s located on Princes Street, behind the handsome Edwardian facade of what was once The Grand Hotel. The luxury building that’s there now is grand too, setting the tone for a night of destination dining. Onlsow’s menu spans everything from devilled eggs with caviar to Fiordland venison and the famous salmon trolley. There’s also a 12-hour lamb shoulder, but Eruera loves the small dishes best. “And they also have super reasonable days where you can get a special set menu.” She likes the opportunity to get dressed up and be greeted by someone wearing a suit jacket. “They're really the last ones doing it that way.”

At the other end of the spectrum, she appreciates a quick, cheap meal – though for that she prefers to dine in too. “But I think with eating in versus takeaway, you get that little bit more experience, often for the same price.” She’ll often go to Uncle Man’s on Karangahape Road for a family friendly dinner, where she always gets the roti chennai.

Helen Emett

Restaurateur Emett runs Emett Group – which includes the frequently recommended Gilt – alongside husband Josh, making her well-versed in the formula and magic behind a good night out, whatever your budget. “My cheap eat has to be the Muscle Bird at Sumthin’ Dumplin’,” she says. (The high-protein dumpling is one of the CBD eatery’s fan favourites.) Fancier occasions draw her downtown. “For a splurge, dinner at Mr Morris,” Emett recommends.

Michael Meredith

Celebrated chef and restaurateur Michael Meredith is full of good advice when it comes to affordable, after-dark eating. Last year he directed us to Hazy Tiger, Twelve Restaurant and August Thai. When asked for a current favourite cheap eat, he recommended a spot in Snickel Lane, off Customs Street East. “I'm a fan of Truth or Dare, the bar. They do a pretty tasty fried chicken.” It’s coated in popped rice, sprinkled with makrut lime salt and comes with sambal mayo. “For a splurge, Alma is always amazing,” he says. “The wood fired beef tongue and the anchovy and tomato tostada are not to be missed.”

Tracy Grant Lord 

Renowned set and costume designer Tracy Grant Lord works at some of the city’s leading venues, like Auckland Town Hall, and handily lives nearby. Her go-to cheap meal is simple: peanut butter on toast “post-show after the walk home”, the convenience of city living making it easy to pick up the ingredients at a supermarket or dairy on the way if the pantry’s a bit bare. For a splurge Grant Lord recommends finding a “very good hotel bar”. She loves the elegance of The Hotel Britomart. “And fish is my favourite, so Kingi is always high on the list.” The Captain’s Bar and The Living Room at the Park Hyatt also rank highly. “They’re both right on the water which is such a pleasure and have an incredible close up view of the city.”

Shane Liu

Sumthin’ Dumplin’ founder Shane Liu’s dumplings offer a quick, tasty fix, and they’re his first answer when it comes to fast and affordable recommendations. Next on the list? KFC on Fort Street. “I get the Zinger Stacker with no sauce and no cheese,” he reveals. At the other end of the spectrum, Liu can’t go past Gilt. He loves the ambience, the service and the food. “My favourite item on the menu is the simple salad,” he says. “Wagyu steak. And the crab pasta – the king crab pappardelle. I also like their salt cod croquettes.”

Chris Parker

Comedian Chris Parker heads to a Karangahape Road classic for an economical dinner. “My go-to is probably a roti rendang from Uncle Mans. 

For a splurge he also recommends Michael Meredith’s restaurant Mr Morris in Britomart. “Hubby and I went on a date night and loved it, so we then booked my mum and the family in there for her big 70th dinner and everyone was really impressed with how fancy it was.” And Alma. “I love Alma. The tomato martini is the best drink in Auckland, and I'll fight ANYONE on that.” Parker also rates Ahi highly if you’re feeling fancy, however he warns it’s often booked out “because it’s brilliant”. Not that that’s a bad thing: “I like that ‘you need to book’ culture is returning to Auckland.”

Wynn Crawshaw

Where to go for a cheap eat in central Auckland? Fashion designer Wynn Crawshaw has been eating at Xi’an Food Bar on Anzac Ave for years. “I get the number 37 – hand-pulled noodles with Xi’an style braised pork. It’s best to eat it with all the vinegar and chilli oils.” If you do have to get take away, he recommends adding some of the complimentary condiments like vinegar, soy sauce and chilli oil. “Take the top off and juice it up before you leave.”

If he’s looking to impress people, he’ll head to Kingi, Tom Hishon and Josh Helm’s elegant restaurant tucked inside the ground floor of Hotel Britomart. Crawshaw appreciates the eatery’s focus. “I like to get a full seafood spread there.” He loves the crudo and the pasta with cockles. “Everyone’s blown away by the freshness of it all.”

Jack Young

When the owner of No.7, Jack Young, isn’t slinging an affordable cult favourite of his own, he’s probably eating ramen or Vietnamese food. Young’s favourite cheap and cheerful spot is Vie on Shortland Street. “The beef phở is so good.” For special occasions, he joins the resounding chorus of Gilt fans. “It’s the perfect balance of high-end yet exciting,” he says of this splurge spot. “I took my family there recently when they were visiting from Wellington and they loved it.”

This content was created in paid partnership with Auckland by Night. Become a Nocturnalist – head to Discover Auckland to find out what that the Auckland city centre has to offer after 5pm.