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Image: Tina Tiller
Image: Tina Tiller

KaiJuly 23, 2022

The complicated relationship between periods and food cravings

Image: Tina Tiller
Image: Tina Tiller

Do our period cravings have a scientific basis, or is it all just marketing by Big Chocolate? Charlotte Muru-Lanning asks the experts. 

All week we are examining our relationship with menstruation in Aotearoa. Read more Bleed Week content here.

When I reflect upon the long, unravelling list of foods I eat in the week before my period, it calls to mind the Very Hungry Caterpillar: one bag of chips, half a block of chocolate, one styrofoam container of char kway teow, one mince and cheese pie, two croissants. Not usually an ice cream enthusiast, my mind drifts to whipped cream-capped sundaes. 

There are a raft of symptoms associated with PMS: irritability, insomnia, sore boobs, mood swings, hot flashes, fatigue, cramps. But probably the most prominent image of the premenstrual phase involves eating. 

Whether it’s sobbing into tubs of ice cream or gobbling individually foil-wrapped chocolates, the belief that our cravings skyrocket around our periods is pervasive. So much so that various food brands have tapped into the link between periods and foods, including “Pause Your PMS” and “Moody Girl” chocolate blocks and “Don’t Come Near Me” and “Don’t PMS” ice cream flavours.

PMS chocolate bars ‘Pause Your PMS’ and ‘Moody Girl Dark Chocolate’ (‘for that time of the month’)

While these cliches are tinged with a somewhat reductive attitude toward menstruation, many of us do notice that our appetites seem to change around our menstrual cycle. But do our cravings really surge right before our periods? And if so, why?

“It’s very real,” says Auckland University of Technology professor of nutrition Elaine Rush. While this can be a challenging area to study because of the scores of variables at play, she explains that “a lot of research has been undertaken about metabolism, appetite and food cravings during the menstrual cycle”. 

The physiological reasons for those cravings are complex, says Rush, which stems from the fact that “there’s a soup of different factors and hormones, things going up and down and changing.”

Before our periods start there tends to be a simultaneous drop in progesterone and a rise in oestrogen which can cause blood sugar levels to drop, explains Rush. When those blood sugar levels drop, our brains send signals that we need sugar and carbohydrates to restore balance. 

It’s also common for serotonin, the chemical that controls moods, to drop before menstruation. That triggers cravings for starchy and sweet foods which help your body to release the “feel good” chemical. There’s also evidence that we burn more fat in the second half of the cycle before menstruation, so at that time “you might also be craving the energy rush of carbohydrates”, Rush says. In some cases, a craving might also mean there’s a shortage of something in your diet.

“Food cravings depend on your previous experience,” explains Rush. “What you regard as a comfort food, what you’d like to taste or what you like the smell of can change with the menstrual cycle.” When you take time to think about what you reach for at different times of your cycle, you’re learning about your body, she adds.

Emotionally, these kinds of cravings can be both liberating and distressing, explains Samantha Ryan, a health psychology researcher from Western Sydney University who has studied premenstrual changes, including cravings in women who felt negatively about their premenstrual bodies. “Within western culture, women are expected to control and resist their appetites, in order to achieve that idealised western feminine body,” she says. 

“The premenstrual body is culturally constructed as being outside of the idealised feminine body, which is the thin, toned, controlled, healthy, very consistent body that does not fluctuate,” she adds. And so along with the myriad painful physical and mental experiences that menstruation can bring on, cravings sometimes only add to discomfort through the guilt associated with eating certain types of foods.

Cravings can be heightened by the painful physical and mental experiences that menstruation can bring on; for some, they can add to the discomfort. (Photo: Getty Images)

Ryan explains that cliched images of insatiable premenstrual appetites are intimately bound to the stereotypical associations between menstruation and hysteria and lack of control. “Eating appears to come into that for some women, because what can we associate with being out of control and undisciplined? It’s your eating behaviour,” she says. 

Weirdly, the way that we’ve absorbed these depictions can also offer a liberating, if short-lived, break from these societal expectations of controlled eating. Ryan explains that the premenstrual self is often positioned as “separate” from the usual self, a permission slip of sorts to allow “those behaviours that they would normally position as immoral and bad.” 

In other cases, the physical and mental discomfort around menstruation brought about justification to eat what they felt like. “It was positioned as kind of like a self-care thing.”

Popular culture has also helped create ties between certain foods and mental distress, and consequently menstrual cravings. Moments like Rory eating a ginormous tub of ice cream on Gilmore Girls, Bridget Jones eating a slightly smaller tub of ice cream swaddled in a duvet or Elle Woods eating a whole tray of chocolates in Legally Blonde or more menstrually specific, the cupcake scene in No Strings Attached – are reified every time we take a spoon to ice cream or reach for the chocs before our periods. A 2017 peer-reviewed article from science journal PLOS found evidence that the types of menstrual cravings we have are informed by the culture around us. “These results suggest that exposure to US culture increases the likelihood that menstruation is identified as a perceived trigger or cause of chocolate cravings,” the study said.  

Bridget Jones at a low point with her tub of Ben and Jerry’s.

Ryan theorises that foods like chocolate and ice cream have such strong associations with premenstrual cravings because they’re “feminised foods”. At the same time, “they’re also positioned as the food that women are meant to resist”. Multiple studies have suggested that the food we resist is often the food we crave. “It’s not the whole story, but I think that women are really trying hard to avoid these foods could be part of it,” she says.

Some segments of society are slowly adapting to the differing needs of people who menstruate. We see it in the small but growing list of companies offering menstrual leave, schools offering free tampons and pads to students or sports training tailored to athletes’ cycles. Still, there’s little widespread accounting for the associated monthly (or thereabouts) fatigue, brain fog and emotional and physical pain that around half of us will experience for a good chunk of our lives.  

‘He mea tautoko nā ngā mema atawhai. Supported by our generous members.’
Liam Rātana
— Ātea editor

Within this context, finding enjoyment in menstrual cravings offers an imperfect way to look after ourselves in a society that for the most part, doesn’t seem to care. “We can take back a little bit of our agency over our own lives and our own bodies and our reproductive cycles,” Ryan says. “So yeah, eat the chocolate bar.”

Image: Tina Tiller
Image: Tina Tiller

KaiJuly 23, 2022

How to have a great meal out – without a side of Covid

Image: Tina Tiller
Image: Tina Tiller

We’re in the midst of an omicron surge and while few restrictions remain around dining out, there’s still plenty you can do to reduce the risk.

We’re currently in the midst of a second major wave of omicron infections in Aotearoa but, in stark contrast to the immediate alert level jumps of years past, nothing has changed in our traffic light settings.

Nowhere is this apparent dissonance between case numbers and our near non-existent restrictions starker than when you step into a cafe, restaurant or bar. In hospitality, almost all of the Covid-19 precautions that were once in place have been peeled away. Vaccine passes are gone, distancing is over, venue occupancy numbers are out, seated-only service is defunct. The only remaining restriction requires public-facing workers at indoor hospitality venues to wear a medical-grade face mask, but mandatory masks for customers are no more. 

In hospitality, almost all of the Covid-19 precautions that were once in place have come to an end. (Photo: Getty Images)

Dining out is part of the rhythm of everyday life in New Zealand, but when you consider the specific set of conditions that come with it – strangers in enclosed spaces eating and chatting sans masks, an absence of ventilation requirements, and workers often with limited sick leave – the specific risk these environments pose for Covid-19 transmission becomes apparent.

As we continue to battle this current wave, here’s a list of simple things you can do to protect yourself and those around you while still getting your culinary fix.

Opt for takeaways

Likely the safest thing you can do to avoid transmission while dining out is to, well, avoid dining out. But that certainly doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy a treat cooked by a professional – get takeaways. What this alternative lacks in seamless service and buzzy ambience is made up for by the benefits of being in your trackpants and slippers, potentially in front of the telly and just a few strides from bed. I can thoroughly recommend getting a few friends together to try something new by way of takeout, and the wait for a table is only as long as it takes you to clear the letters and receipts off your kitchen bench or dining table.

Dine outside

My relationship to outdoor tables at the moment is comparable to a moth to a flame. It might be cold, but it’s worth the effort to rug up in your warmest layers. As we now know, Covid-19 (along with the other respiratory viruses making their way around the population) spreads through the air, so indoor environments with a bunch of strangers talking and eating with no mask on is unfortunately a pretty ideal environment for transmission. To counter this, seek out places with outdoor seating where those pesky Covid-19 particles can drift away before you or anyone else has a chance to inhale them. 

Photo: David Rowland/AFP via Getty Images

Think about ventilation

But what if it’s not possible to sit outside? “I’d be looking at ventilation,” says University of Auckland microbiologist Siouxsie Wiles, adding that questions to keep in mind are whether windows are open and how big the space is. University of Auckland aerosol chemist Joel Rindelaub agrees, explaining that picking a location with an opened window or door can make a huge difference – even if it’s just opened a crack on both sides of a room. “That’s especially useful in winter because it’ll be warm on the inside compared to the air on the outside and due to the physics, the air is going to move from hot to cold, so it’s actually just going to expel outwards and clear the room naturally, even if it’s cracked just a little bit.”

Wiles says she’d like to see more hospitality businesses focusing on their air quality, whether that’s ensuring that a window is open or investing in a CO2 monitor. In the meantime, more customers raising queries around ventilation in the same way we might ask whether places are BYO or use free-range eggs on the menu could help to spread awareness and demand for clean indoor air when we’re eating out. “I would love people to be asking those questions,” Wiles says.

Mask up

At our current setting, orange, customers at restaurants, cafes and bars aren’t required to wear masks. But while it’s not mandatory for customers, the government’s Covid-19 website says everyone is “encouraged to wear a face mask in public indoor settings wherever it is practical”. And there’s good reason to follow that advice.

In an article on The Spinoff published last week, Rindelaub said, “I feel that people should be wearing masks whenever they’re in these high-risk environments, whenever they can. I mean, it’s obviously not going to be possible the entire time. But the more you wear it, the better you’re doing for yourself, because you’re lowering the risk.”

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Anna Rawhiti-Connell
— Senior writer

Wiles emphasises the importance of wearing, if possible, a well-fitted respirator mask, like a P2 or N95, which are more effective than the surgical masks and fabric masks that have been ubiquitous throughout much of the pandemic. Wearing a good mask “is a relatively small thing we can do”, she says. “At least while we’re at the peak.”

So whether you’re heading up to the till to pay, perusing the buffet selection or ducking into a cafe for a takeout morning cheese scone and coffee, putting a mask on for those few minutes could save you or someone else from being sick for a week or more. Sounds like a good trade-off in my humble opinion.

In hospo venues, masks are currently only mandatory for workers – but it’s still helpful for customers to mask up too (Image: Tina Tiller)

Dine at off-peak times

Another tip Wiles reckons is worth considering is “going early in service or later in service when there’s fewer people around”. Fewer people in the room means less chance of someone having Covid-19, and less concentration of particles in the air from people breathing. There’s something delightful about breaking food rules – so, why not opt for a late dinner like people tend to do in Spain, or eat it at 4pm as they apparently do in Norway and Finland.

Getting there

If you’re heading out to eat somewhere in your own car or by active transport, you likely don’t have too much to worry about in terms of potential Covid-19 transmission. Other modes of transport are a different story though.

In a series of articles on RNZ last week, buses, trains and ferries rated pretty poorly in terms of air quality, so wearing a respirator mask is important to reduce both the particles you’re breathing in and breathing out in those germ vessels.

Similarly, if you’re going by taxi (an even smaller germ vessel), simply wearing a respirator mask and rolling down the window to free those air particles will help to protect both you and the driver. I’ve perfected the seamless art of rolling down the window as I close the door, and I reckon you can too.

Do a RAT beforehand

Thinking of booking a fancy meal out to celebrate the end of seven days of isolation? Consider waiting a couple of days to be safe, says Wiles. “A quarter to a half of people are infectious after day seven,” she says, so “at least wait a couple of days” before dining out. If you don’t, “It’s dangerous for everyone around you, staff and other diners.” Even if you’re not at the tail-end of a Covid-19 isolation period, it could be worthwhile to take a RAT test as a precaution, especially as we now know you can be reinfected much earlier than once thought.

Be a nice diner

Patience is always a virtue when dining out, but with staffing issues and the stress of working in a pandemic, even more so at the moment. Most hospitality workers I’ve spoken to recently have noticed a positive shift in terms of treatment from customers but it can’t hurt to keep that in mind. Saying “thank you”, being understanding about wait times or mistakes, drinking responsibly, or – a more divisive suggestion – stacking plates at the end of a meal. Unless you believe in karma, being polite to hospitality workers isn’t likely to protect you or anyone else from Covid-19, but if the aim is to look after each other, it’s important to keep in mind.