It remains a failsafe recipe for comfort TV – but this season lacks a bit of zest.
The Lowdown
The Great Kiwi Bake Off returned last week for a fourth season – and there have been a few changes. For starters, there’s a new co-host, with comedian Pax Assadi stepping effortlessly into Madeleine Sami’s shoes alongside Hayley Sproull, who’s been a fixture of the Bake Off barn since season one.
There are also two new judges: celebrity chef Peter Gordon and “The Caker” Jordan Rondel have inherited the tasting forks from GKBO veterans Sue Fleischl and Dean Brettschneider.
Personnel changes aside, the show is the same as it’s always been: 10 charming contestants vying for the prize of a shiny cake stand and the glory of being the country’s best home baker. Each episode sees the contestants complete a signature bake, a technical challenge and a showstopper. And at the end of the final bake, one contestant is awarded star baker while another is sent packing.
The good
Much of Bake Off’s success comes down to the wholesome, largely low-stakes format, where the most stressful thing that can happen is that a cake doesn’t rise or that someone’s fondant starts to fall off. Occasionally, someone might throw a baked Alaska in the bin. Compared to other reality cooking shows like MasterChef, where the tension is amped up through long pauses, eye contact and ad break cliffhangers, Bake Off is a relaxing watch.
Thankfully, season four whips up another dish of simple baking joy. Episode one was especially low-stakes because it was cake week, and surely anyone competing in a baking competition has cake-making in their repertoire. If anything, the challenges seemed a bit too easy – the signature challenge, for example, was a drizzle cake. But that’s absolutely fine because Bake Off is the televisual equivalent of comfort eating and you don’t want to watch people struggle too much.
Pax Assadi is a solid addition to the hosting line-up. I do miss Madeline Sami’s chaotic energy – her relationship with Sproull was part of what made GKBO a success from the get-go – however Assadi looks set to bring his own energy to the barn. I also have it on very good authority (meaning I asked her personally) that ex-Great British Bake Off host Sue Perkins approves of Assadi and Sproull as a hosting duo.
The not-so-good
Here’s where I feel conflicted. I don’t want to say anything negative about the nicest show on TV, but, based entirely on the first episode, something feels off about this season of the Great Kiwi Bake Off. Compared to the imposing “Fleischlschneider” duo of previous seasons, the new judges don’t seem to be particularly comfortable in their roles – both Rondel and Gordon were very quiet and reserved in the first episode, and weirdly reticent to comment on the baking.
Aside from general notes about the taste and appearance of each cake, there was very little in the way of critique – positive or otherwise – of any of the 30 cakes dished up in the first episode. There’s nothing wrong with being a kind judge, but at least give us hungry viewers some detail about what you’re eating. Several of the bakes in the first episode had visible flaws, yet these were largely brushed over during the judging. Sure, it’s nice to be understanding if a bake doesn’t quite work, but this is still a competition!
The verdict
Based on the first episode there’s absolutely enough there to keep me, a Bake Off tragic, coming back for a second helping. I just hope that as the judges grow more comfortable with their roles, they grow more comfortable on screen too. With 21 more bakes to go, I’ll still be tuning in, cake fork at the ready, every week.
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