Image: Tina Tiller
Image: Tina Tiller

SocietyJanuary 5, 2024

A morning at the Death Cafe

Image: Tina Tiller
Image: Tina Tiller

Summer reissue: All around the world, strangers have been meeting to chat about death over coffee. Gabi Lardies goes along one sunny Sunday morning to find out what it’s all about.

First published on August 11, 2023. Click here to read more of our Death Week content.

By 10.23am, there are already 15 people sitting around four pushed-together tables at the Auckland Art Gallery cafe, and me, scanning around them for an unoccupied chair. On one of the tables is a laminated A4 piece of paper. “Auckland Death Cafe,” it reads, “discussions about all things life, death and dying.” Next to it is a rather rotund plastic pink piggy bank, who, like me, is making its first appearance at the Death Cafe.

A week ago, I’d never heard of a Death Cafe, but once you start reading about death, wonderful things appear.

By 10.30 there are 18 of us around the mega table. People with grey hair, no hair, fluffy blonde hair, long black hair and bright orange hair. I’ve never seen any of them before in my life, which is a rare and welcome feeling; in a city where walking down the street means bumping into people you know, having anonymity is nice. Apart from the fact that our brief visits on this earth have aligned, there’s not much in common between us. Ages and ethnicities are varied, there’s short and there’s tall, sweet and savoury, regulars and new faces. 

Kirsty Salisbury, an end of life worker and podcaster who organises this event every month, stands up and introduces herself. She’s only 45 but she’s been thinking about death for over 30 years – since a severe childhood illness. Salisbury quickly runs through the essentials of the event: it’s not a grief support group, nor a place to push beliefs, services or products, and there is no specific agenda. She happily introduces me, the journalist spy, who has promised to keep people’s identities secret. I embarrass myself with a little wave and try to hide behind my tiny 3B1 notebook. Although the idea is to talk about death, “a huge part of death is life,” she says, so just about anything goes. Her long black, with a side of hot water, arrives at the table. “So what do you all want to talk about?”

The first Death Cafe was hosted by Jon Underwood, an English data systems engineer turned buddhist and his psychotherapist mum, Sue Barsky Reid, in September 2011. He had been thinking about death, read about Swiss café mortels in the newspaper and was inspired to host his own. The Death Cafe at Underwood’s home in East London was a “wonderful occasion,” according to the official Death Cafe website. Underwood and Reid then made and freely shared a guide, so anyone could run a Death Cafe, provided they followed the principles. Death Cafes must be voluntarily run, not for profit, and aim to “increase awareness of death with a view to helping people make the most of their (finite) lives”. 

Death Cafes caught on and the idea spread. Around the world, there have been tens of thousands of Death Cafes and hundreds of thousands of people have participated. In Aotearoa, they’ve been hosted in Whangārei, Warkworth, Waiheke, Auckland, Whitianga, Tauranga, Hawkes Bay, Palmerston North, Wellington, Nelson, Christchurch, Lincoln, Timaru, Oamaru, Dunedin, Invercargill and Queenstown.

Today in Auckland, a lady with thick framed glasses and soft white down sparsely populating her scalp offers a starting point. A couple of weeks ago, someone pounced on her at a dinner party, needing to know exactly why she had this particular hairstyle. It’s something I was wondering, but had thought good social etiquette was not to ask. The pouncer, upon hearing it was the fault of chemotherapy, asked “What’s on your bucket list?” The question, and concept of a bucket list, didn’t sit particularly well with her. Should someone, facing the prospect of death sooner rather than later, write a list of extreme activities and start ticking things off?

A discussion ensues. The conversation has turned into considering how best to live. Shouldn’t we already be living the lives we want, since death is always coming? The problem, it’s decided, is that people put off their life until they’re dying – or rather, until they can no longer ignore that they’re dying. I’m trying to consider my own life, follow the conversation, drink my flat white and write notes all at once – it doesn’t work. My mind starts filling up with questions. Is it bad to just go straight home to sit under the heat pump after work? Is it too late to reach out to that friend I haven’t seen in months? How can I live the life I want with the budget I have? Is gardening and reading books a boring way to spend my life?

Senior woman holding a cup of tea and a book, looking delighted
Author contemplates her life. (Photo: Eva-Katalin via Getty)

When I tune back in to the audible conversation, someone is saying it’s problematic to make living into a list, because lists are for chores and things you don’t really wanna do. The person next to them says they love lists. They make a list every year and bring it out on the weekends.

The lady with the glasses and not much hair asks if jumping out of planes, the quintessential bucket list item, is really what we value? A late arrival chimes in. “When someone’s gone, you realise how much you miss the mundane,” she says. Her sister died of cancer, and she’s missed in the mornings over breakfast, in the evenings after work, and all the little inbetween times when no one’s really doing anything in particular, just living. Would it be a waste of life to stick to the ordinary?

To my left, two plates arrive in front of a petite and prim guest. “Does anyone want a spinach and feta roll? I ordered it by accident,” she says. There’s a moment of polite silence, before someone two tables away admits, well, she’d eat it. The plate makes its way across the tables, passed between many hands.

“Will we ever be satisfied, or will we always be discontent?” Salisbury gently nudges the conversation forward. 

A man, with deep smile lines etched through his cheeks, says there’s nothing wasteful about living an ordinary life. He’s been clasping his hands in his lap for most of the session, but now he crosses his arms. Our discontent, he says, is constructed by capitalist consumer culture, which has us scrambling after other people’s dreams. This idea is met warmly by the group. We don’t like capitalism.

‘Help keep The Spinoff funny, smart, tall and handsome – become a member today.’
Gabi Lardies
— Staff writer

Someone else worries that not only is capitalism wasting our lives, but also causing the heat death of the whole planet, which some of us around the table (his eyes flick at me, even though I’ve estimated I’m the fourth or fifth youngest here) may live to see.

“I just want to live a stable, mundane life,” says a 64-year-old. I find this comforting. He is missing his children who live far away, and is preparing to move closer to them.

The conversation keeps pinging around the tables. Are you stuck in the rat race or on the treadmill? Is it possible to live the lives we value? How do diagnoses change our view of life? Are you prepared to die? How has that impacted you? 

Though it’s a big group, only one person ever talks at a time, and everyone else eagerly listens. Around half of us, including me, exclusively listen. I’ve got the excuse of being there to observe, but in truth I often prefer listening when in big groups, and I’m relieved we aren’t goaded to speak. There’s sensitivity to the fact that the conversation does touch difficult and emotional topics. The people who do speak dont steamroll through, they take their time, leave gaps of silence, and invite others by asking questions. There’s a lot of different opinions, and a lot of laughter, from humour that is not too dark – death by falling coconut, for example. I don’t see anyone glancing at their phone, or whispering to their neighbour, or staring off into space. 

The hour passes quickly. I haven’t even scooped up the remnant froth from my flat white, which is the best bit. Salisbury gives the group a five-minute warning – “Is there anything else anyone wants to bring up?”

The conversation returns to the beginning. The idea of a bucket list is mostly trashed, because we should be living the lives we want and value every day. I suspend my cynicism, but the privilege of thinking this is simple, and a matter of personal choice, casts a shadow over my sunny disposition.

Salisbury wraps up by reminding everyone that if they want to come next month, they had better book their place soon. For this event, the waiting list was as long as the number of people that she could host. There are a few apologies – one person will be on a motorcycle ride, another will be in Europe. Salisbury thanks us all for coming, and a quiet applause follows. Then, the group erupts. Everyone seems to be talking at once, in little groups around the tables. Some are wondering if it was the movie with Jack Nicholson and Morgan Freeman that invented the concept of a bucket list, others are talking about the cost of travel, the dangers of riding motorcycles, and the fear of the big C.

A gold coin donation is encouraged, but not required

Salisbury packs up the Death Cafe sign and the piggy bank into her tote bag, and leads me outside. “I never really thought that I was going to focus a massive part of my life into this topic. But I noticed all around me people were really curious, people wanted to talk about it, and they don’t have a place they can talk about death and dying or what it’s all about. I also noticed how much people want to talk about life and how to live,” she says. Like all Death Cafe hosts, she makes no money from it. It’s the first time she’s brought the piggy bank along with her, to help cover costs like the Meetup membership.

Through the window, we can see the group, clustered into smaller groups, still talking. “I don’t know how long they stay,” Salisbury says. She suspects it could be a while, and regulars have started coming earlier and earlier, beating her arrival. Yet, this hasn’t satisfied their keenness. A social group has sprung up alongside the Death Cafe, for activities outlawed by the guide. They have dinners and watch movies (if they include death themes). It seems death is seeping beyond its allocated monthly Sunday morning and becoming a bigger part of people’s lives.

Keep going!
Restore Passenger Rail have undertaken two bursts of protest action over recent months. (Photos: Supplied. Design: Archi Banal)
Restore Passenger Rail have undertaken two bursts of protest action over recent months. (Photos: Supplied. Design: Archi Banal)

SocietyJanuary 5, 2024

Inside a Restore Passenger Rail civil resistance recruitment session

Restore Passenger Rail have undertaken two bursts of protest action over recent months. (Photos: Supplied. Design: Archi Banal)
Restore Passenger Rail have undertaken two bursts of protest action over recent months. (Photos: Supplied. Design: Archi Banal)

Summer reissue: Undimmed by arrests, anger and claims of counterproductive tactics, the Wellington-based climate activists are determined to keep disrupting roads. Toby Manhire joins an introductory meeting. 

First published on May 4, 2023.

‘Welcome, everyone. Would you like to put your cameras on, if you’re able to? It’s nice to see everyone’s faces.” Those faces hardly reveal a rogue’s gallery. It could be a bridge club, a pottery enthusiasts’ AGM. They range from 20-somethings to grandparents, 13 all up. “Acknowledging all of your courage for turning up to face the difficulties of the climate crisis,” says the Restore Passenger Rail organiser. “And acknowledging and welcoming diversity here. Some people who are longtime activists, some people who are dipping their toes in the water for the first time. It’s really wonderful.”

We’re at “Climate Crisis & Civil Resistance”, an introductory meeting run by the group that has mounted a series of protests obstructing Wellington roads, halting traffic and making a lot of people really, really furious. The session description on the Zoom call: “REFUSE TO BE A BYSTANDER AND TAKE ACTION!” 

I’ve joined as an observer, having undertaken not to name any of the participants involved. Some I recognise from photographs of the protest action. At least a couple have been arrested for their roles in the disruption, signature characteristics of which include banners emblazoned with “Restore Passenger Rail” and the gluing of hands to roads. 

In two bursts of activity in October and again across the last fortnight, RPR supporters have attached themselves – literally – to state highway on-ramps, to Vivian Street and Transmission Gully, to Adelaide Road and the Terrace; they’ve scaled motorway gantries and the mouth of Mt Victoria tunnel. Yesterday, the target was Glenmore Street, by the Karori tunnel. 

Protesters glue their hands to Glenmore Street, Wellington. (Photo: RPR social media)

On almost every occasion, traffic has been halted for hours, prompting waves of indignation and raw fury. Police have mobilised in response, warning that the activists’ approach carries the risk of serious injury or death. A number of protesters have charges before the courts. Some could face prison sentences

I’m curious about who is willing to go to such lengths in the cause of passenger rail, about the tactical rationale. I’m hoping to get a sense of how they feel about the political and public response, especially the rejoinder that the approach is counterproductive to the cause. And to hear the pitch: what is being said to recruit new people to stick themselves to tarmac?

Following the opening remarks we’re divided into three breakout groups. Ours includes a pair who have been involved in the actions over recent weeks. One, a retiree, says: “It’s been really busy. Quite full on. But also very valuable.” Another is “semi-involved”; he’s been following the actions but hasn’t taken part directly. 

Then there’s a young woman who recently moved to New Zealand. “Sorry if you can hear some noise in the background, I’m babysitting for my cousins. They’re a bit enthusiastic.” She’s been involved in the Extinction Rebellion movement overseas. “I was really, really inspired by how successful the tactics of nonviolent direct action have been. In the UK, it’s been enormously, enormously successful in increasing awareness of the climate crisis as a major issue … It’s amazing. You see activists getting interviewed by Piers Morgan and stuff now. It just would never have happened even five years ago.”

‘If you regularly enjoy The Spinoff, and want it to continue, become a member today.’
Toby Manhire
— Editor-at-large

Extinction Rebellion – or XR – made an impact in many parts of the world, New Zealand included, when it burst into public view at the end of the last decade. It was a forerunner and inspiration to groups such as Restore Passenger Rail, “shock tactics” born of exasperation. A mindset voiced by one RPR protester, Rachael Andrews, after she was arrested in October: “We’re the alarm that wakes you from sleep because your house is on fire.” 

RPR is a member of the “A22 Network”, an international group of “connected projects engaged in a mad dash to try and save humanity”. In a manifesto-of-sorts, A22 describes itself as “the Last Generation of the old world.” On tactics: “We commit to mass civil disobedience … We are open and nonviolent. We are Care and we are Freedom. We will accept the consequences of our actions and look our destiny directly in the eye.”

The A22 network.

While the overarching mission is shared, the targets are as varied as the degree of bombast. The German A22 climate activists Letzte Generation, for example, went so far as to sabotage fuel pipelines across the country. It ultimately abandoned that approach, owing to a lack of media coverage, opting to revert to road-blocking tactics similar to RPR. To their most fervid determined supporters, there is a near-religious zeal, embodied in the A22 mantra, “While there remains breath in our bodies we will not stop. This is our life now.” To their most committed disparagers, they are “climate cultists”, “hypocrites inflicting carnage” and “eco-loons”. 

The emergence of “supercharged climate activism” has spurred academic studies and inspired a new, controversial British bill, branded draconian and undemocratic by critics, cracking down on disruptive protests. A UK-based New Zealander, Morgan Trowland, was last week sentenced to prison for three years under the law. Trowland had been one of a pair of activists from Just Stop Oil, a member of the A22 network, who scaled the Queen Elizabeth II bridge east of London, shutting it to traffic for around 36 hours. 

A form of legislative crackdown is favoured in New Zealand, too, by National transport spokesperson Simeon Brown. He has placed in the ballot a member’s bill that would create a new criminal offence of obstructing State Highways and other major roads, tunnels and bridges.

A Just Stop Oil march protesting the sentencing of activists Morgan Trowland and Marcus Decker in London last week. (Photo: Vuk Valcic/SOPA Images/LightRocket via Getty Images)

Back in the main room at the RPR meeting, we’re introduced to the lead speaker. “She has been active in the peace and climate justice movements. She’s a mum. She’s a nana. She’s a community builder dedicated to non-violence and radical imagination.”

She begins: “I want to acknowledge the people of Pōneke who have been disrupted these past two weeks. I personally really don’t enjoy doing this. I feel somewhat dismayed that it’s come to this type of tactic, to be honest. But after all the petitions and the submissions and the marches that I’ve been on, emissions are still going up, and the window that we have to turn things around is pretty rapidly closing.”

The RPR demands are set out. “Pretty simple, really. Restoring a nationwide passenger rail system between Northland and Invercargill and lots of places in between. Our second demand is that the government makes the current half price [initiative] on public transport totally free and permanently free. But this campaign is actually also about something much bigger than rail and public transport … We sit on the road because we’re in a climate emergency.”

IPCC reports, peer-reviewed research and climate scientists’ warnings are all cited. It points overwhelmingly to the need for more profound and urgent action, she says. “But life is carrying on around us pretty much as normal, and it feels like no one’s panicking.” She says: “Organised collective action works. Organised, peaceful civil resistance can change history.” She points to women’s suffrage and New Zealand’s nuclear-free movement, to 1960s civil rights activism in the US.

The current cause, she argues, is one that could draw inspiration from the Freedom Riders, who “broke the world”. “Those 18 students inspired thousands of people and changed the course of history. Thirteen people, we have power. Don’t believe that we don’t. Facing the endgame for humanity, the climate crisis isn’t the same as what the Freedom Riders faced – they endured daily overt racial violence. But like them we can’t afford not to act.”

To RPR’s detractors, such comparisons are absurd, deluded, self-aggrandising; slogans from a group that takes extreme steps in the absence of mass participation. Simeon Brown has condemned “reckless idiots” who “put their cause back a long way”. The minister for transport, Michael Wood, agrees. He has condemned their tactics as “deplorable” and “idiotic”. Though he agreed to a meeting with the group after protest action subsided in December, that came to nothing. RPR spokesperson Rosemary Penwarden called it “congenial” but “unproductive”. 

Last week, the prime minister, Chris Hipkins, told media: “I just think whatever point they’re trying to make, they’re not making it. All they are doing is causing massive disruption to people [and] that comes with a financial cost often for people that can’t actually afford it. It’s just simply irresponsible and idiotic.”

Another critic is Tory Whanau, Wellington’s Green-endorsed mayor, elected with a strong climate-focused mandate. Following the Adelaide Road disruption on April 20, Whanau ruled out meeting with the group. “They have not moved forward in good faith, they have disrupted Wellingtonians, they have disrupted the lives of normal people instead of the government’s,” she told Newstalk ZB. “I need to emphasise, I support peaceful protest, but this is not the way to do it. I will not meet with them.” She, too, has called for tougher consequences for those who take part. 

More piercing than any politician’s censure, however, are those from the public. One bus passenger was reported to have remonstrated yesterday morning with protesters glued to the road on Glenmore Street, saying they were preventing him from visiting a daughter in hospital who was undergoing chemotherapy treatment.

Restore Passenger Rail protests in Wellington. (Photos: Supplied. Image: Archi Banal)

If such sentiments risk tipping RPR, like similar groups around the world, into pariah status, they are not indifferent to perception. It underpins, for example, the choice of cause. Whether or not it might be a most practical game-changer on emissions, the restoration of passenger rail has an accommodating, nostalgic, folksy quality; a clarion call much less intimidating label than, say, “Extinction Rebellion”. “It’s important that our demands are popular,” the lead speaker says. “We know from polls that restoring passenger rail and free public transport are both extremely popular and people want this to happen.”

At root, however, the answer to all the objections above is a resolve that other options have been exhausted. The rallying cry to the virtual meeting is this: “We’re done with things like creating nice, polite petitions. We’ve tried that, and it doesn’t work fast enough. We’ve also done things like protest marches and occupations. We’ve learned that you can do it for a day and the government and the media might notice [then] the next day they just go right back to business as usual and forget about the thing you were asking. To win we need to be impossible to ignore.” 

RPR counted the October experience, she says, a roaring success. “By blocking motorways in Wellington six times over three weeks, we got more media coverage than any climate or environmental campaign has managed to get over a three-week period.” Sure, she says, “lots of people hate Restore Passenger Rail. But actually that doesn’t matter. We don’t need everybody to sit on the road. We just need a few people. We need you. We don’t need everyone to like us. All we need is to get our highly popular demands to be impossible to ignore.” 

Rounding out the pitch, she says: “We really hate doing it. We hate inconveniencing people. I’d personally rather be playing with my grandchildren or digging around in my garden or pretty much doing anything else. But I’m going to ask you now to think about the disruption caused to those hundreds of people that were late for work or appointments. Just think of the inconvenience to their lives and the stress they felt. That’s real. That matters. It really matters to me. Now think about the inconvenience of those hit by Cyclone Gabrielle … streets washed away, whole farms washed away, houses hit by landslides. Eleven people died.” 

She invokes other climate-accelerated or exacerbated weather events in New Zealand and around the world. “Let’s remember the people of Pakistan who lost everything last year, nearly 33 million displaced by climate induced flooding. Over 1,000 people died. So many others around the world have been suffering and dying due to the breakdown of our climate systems. Our disruption on the motorways really is nothing in comparison. But it’s just enough to show the seriousness of the crisis to be impossible to ignore.”

She says: “People will hate our methods that will agree with our message. And that’s the most important thing, right? It’s not to be liked. It’s to be effective. Because right now, everything we love is on the line. In 10 years’ time, maybe we’ll know whether we’ve gone past the climate tipping point. If we’ve failed, we’ll be living through the collapse of human civilisation. And we’ll know what part we played. 

“And I’ll leave you with one question. In 10 years, do you want to be one of those who will look back on this moment, wishing that they’d taken action? Or do you want to join us today?”

As the clock ticks past the hour, the floor is opened to others in the group. A handful explain how they ended up curious enough to join the meeting. A woman from Christchurch describes how she’d joined climate groups, “made the submissions and signed the hundreds of petitions, did the climate marches and went to rallies at parliament and drastically cut my own kind of emissions in terms of all the personal changes”.  

She says: “I’ve been doing this stuff for 20 years. Twenty years. And it just blows my mind that we’re not doing anything. This is the most well researched, well predicted, you know, absolute clusterfuck that humanity’s ever faced and we’re not listening to the people telling the truth.” She was a “rule follower” by nature. She worried about “the disruption we cause”.

But, she said, her voice cracking, “I feel like I’ve tried everything else. So that’s why I’m desperate enough to support this. I didn’t mean to get this emotional. But, yeah, I, my partner and I, decided not to have children because of the world that we’re bringing them in. But now we both feel like we have to do everything that we possibly can.”

After 10 seconds or so of silence, she adds: “Just for the record, I haven’t yet had the courage to actually sit on the road and get arrested. But I might just get desperate enough to, so thank you to all of those who have got that courage, because it’s not something that anyone takes lightly.”

Towards the end of the meeting, participants are invited to “come to Wellington and join in some action”, beginning with training for nonviolent direct action training. “Everyone who takes part in an action with Restore Passenger Rail has training to be safe,” she says, “And we keep each other safe. And we are 100% nonviolent, and present in what we’re doing.” There are other roles for people who aren’t up for that, she says.

A few days later an RPR volunteer telephones to follow up. She’s a supporter but her line of work means she’s “not arrestable”, so she helps in ways that don’t involve roads and glue. How does she feel about the backlash, especially from those who say they support the cause but consider the tactics counterproductive? “I’ve been grappling with that,” she says. “I’m not someone who likes pissing people off. But it’s got to the point, for me, where we have to piss people off. You know, these are gentle people. And I just so admire that they’re literally putting their bodies on the line.”

‘If you regularly enjoy The Spinoff, and want it to continue, become a member today.’
Toby Manhire
— Editor-at-large