Margi Robertson, co founder of NOM*D, in Dunedin
After 40 years of NOM*d, what has Dunedin’s fashion doyenne learned? (Photo: Supplied)

Societyabout 11 hours ago

What 40-plus years in fashion has taught NOM*d’s Margi Robertson

Margi Robertson, co founder of NOM*D, in Dunedin
After 40 years of NOM*d, what has Dunedin’s fashion doyenne learned? (Photo: Supplied)

Do you get older and wiser? Should you take on that debt? And what’s the best way to enjoy Campari? Dunedin fashion legend Margi Robertson shares some life advice and reflects on NOM*d’s milestone anniversary.

David Lange was prime minister, GST was kicking in and Ōtepoti was steeped in the Dunedin Sound when NOM*d was born 40 years ago.  Founded by designer Margi Robertson and her husband Chris, the fashion brand helped shape the “Dunedin look”, which was dark, arty, clever and cool

By 1999 NOM*d was among the “New Zealand four” invited to show at London Fashion Week – a “coup” that put Aotearoa on the map and received funding from Wools of New Zealand, Trade New Zealand and Brand New Zealand. It helped usher in a golden era for local fashion that was buoyed by international interest and a vibrant local industry.

NOM*d dressed tastemakers and released collections that rattled New Zealand fashion (in a good way). “Red” was legendary; the 2002 range riffed on Soviet culture and constructivism through reworked vintage furs and cyrillic prints inspired by Russian propaganda (the brand still sells the monster and skeleton motifs). The influential “Don’t Shoot” collection was shown on runways in Auckland and New York in 2004.

NOM*d looks on the runway
NOM*d looks on the runway in, from left, 2002, 2004 and 2026, where Robertson introduced Clare Warburton as the brand’s new lead designer. (Photos: Supplied, Radical)

Now it’s 2026 and NOM*d is still cool and still going. It marked 40 years of business with a return to the New Zealand Fashion Week runway in August 2026, its first catwalk presentation since 2016. 

Robertson was there and so was her sister Liz Findlay (co-founder of Zambesi). The pair grew up in a sewing home. Their Greek mother, Zinovia Gladiadis, was a seamstress, born in Russia before emigrating to New Zealand with their Ukrainian father. Robertson was born in Central Otago before the family moved to Dunedin. 

Robertson stayed there. Alongside Chris she runs NOM*d and their highly regarded boutique Plume, founded in 1978. Robertson credits this retail foundation with giving her good grounding and establishing customer fluency and strong relationships. “It was all about personal connections and trust and respect.” That goes both ways; Dunedin Public Art Gallery held a retrospective of her work last year. The 40-year milestone is one she’s proud of. “Sometimes I can’t believe it but the years don’t lie. It’s been a journey of learning and milestones and achievements.” 

NOM*d designer Margi Robertson on the runway with a model, and at her desk in her studio
Robertson at London Fashion Week in 1999 and in her Dunedin studio more recently. (Photos: Supplied)

She shared some of what she’s learned with The Spinoff.

What bothers you most about the world right now?

The unrest in world politics, the climate change, the pace at which everything is changing and the fact that everything normal is now not.

What sort of people do you avoid?

I don’t really avoid people, everybody has a right to be heard, whether you believe in their ideals or not is irrelevant.

What makes you want to get up in the morning?

Letting our dog outside for her ablutions and a coffee, usually in that order.

How do you hold onto hope in these crazy times?

You just have to believe that it will change for the better.

What is the single best quality a human can have?

Kindness and forgiveness.

What’s over-rated?

Wealth and popularity.

What’s under-rated?

Humility and sincerity.

If you could have a do-over, what would you change?

Is that a personal do-over? Wish I was slimmer and had straight hair.

What brings you joy?

Seeing my grand-daughter having a wonderful time in countries like Sri Lanka and the Philippines. Nothing to do with fashion or commercialism.

What’s the best advice you’ve ever been given?

Our bank manager when we asked for a $500 overdraft back in the late 70s. He told us to learn to walk before we ran. We didn’t get the overdraft and had to spend wisely and carefully.

What advice do you wish you’d never followed?

Forgive and forget. I always remember but I can forgive.

Tell us about a controversial opinion you hold.

I like our female leaders in government. I feel they have more empathy than many of their male counterparts.

When you’re feeling low, what helps?

At the moment, a Campari with Sicilian lemon soda and a movie to get lost in.

In what ways is public-facing Margi Robertson different to private Margi Robertson? 

She hasn’t really learnt to be different in public, she’s just herself wherever she is.

Give us some life advice.

You do get older and wiser just because of the lessons you experience in life.