This week, Poland comes to Warkworth, Portugal to Hawke’s Bay, and Henry Oliver drinks it up.

8 WIRED BALTYK-TASMAN

9%, 330ml, $7.99 from Fine Wine Delivery Co

Ahhhhhhh, isn’t it heartwarming when the disparate nations of the world can come together and make something beautiful? It seems to be happening a lot less recently. Every country seems to want to hang out alone, keeping its toys to itself. Whether it’s Brexit or Trump nationalism or the continuing tragedy on Nauru, the prevailing tide seems to be turning against globalism or internationalism.

Not so in beer. With new experimenters popping up everywhere beer is made, instead of just approximating foreign styles, more and more of these kindred spirits are collaborating and combining traditional knowledge with new geographies.

Take this Baltic porter, for example. Brewed by Browar Pinta brewery in Poland but in Warkworth microbrewery 8 Wired (is there, for better or worse, a more New Zealand name?), this deep, dark beer is brewed with a large amount of Munich malt and, apparently, a whole bunch of Polish hops.

It’s big, bright and darkly opaque. It’s strong as hell (9%) but so smooth you don’t really notice it (not good for office drinks if you’re planning on having one then driving). It’s a goddamn milkshake of a beer, full of sweet, chocolatey malt and with an almost chewy texture. Given that this was made last year and took three months of fermentation (it’s “lagered” if you want to get technical, but I had to look that up so don’t take my word for it) and, like I said, made by Polish people, so don’t expect for this to be available forever. Or ever again.

Verdict: Drink it up!

Henry Oliver

ESK VALLEY VERDELHO 2018

14%, $15.99 from Fine Wine Delivery Co

When you first get into wine, the world seems almost infinite. There are so many grapes! So many styles! So many regions! But after a while, you get to learn your taste. You might like chardonnay a lot, so instead of venturing out and trying varieties you’ve never had, you explore the world of chardonnay more than the world of wine. You get into different wines from around the country. You try and figure out Burgundy (if you can afford it), Californian wines, the Yarra Valley, Puglia.

Well, friends, I am here to tell you that I have discovered a wine I have not only never tasted, never considered buying, and never known anything about other than very vaguely being aware of its existence.

Verdelho is a white grape from Madeira, an island in Portugal. The grape has been used to make Madeira wine forever so if you’ve heard of it, that’s probably how (that’s all I ever knew about it, I think). Who knew Esk Valley in Hawke’s Bay has been growing it for 20 years and making wine out of it for 16? And who knew the wine of the forthcoming summer was going to be something you have to say slowly a few times to learn how to pronounce? NOT ME!

Esk Valley’s 2018 Verdelho is tropical and zesty on the nose, but not too sharp. It’s super fresh, bright and concentrated (14%!). Somehow both intensely zesty and dry, floral and acidic. It’s peachy and citric. It just tastes like summer. I drank this with chicken tacos and it held up to the spice perfectly. It would also pair with afternoons, parks, beaches and reluctant sweatshirts when the sun goes down and the wind picks up a little.

Verdict: Early contender for wine of the summer (which hasn’t even started)

Henry Oliver

By rejuvenating the world’s oldest alcoholic drink, the founder of Lone Bee Mead hopes to breathe new life into our regions.

The animal kingdom brims with everyday examples of enterprise, dare and bravery by creatures both great and small. In the world of the humble honey bee, the hero of the narrative is the scout bee which ventures out on its own in search of new sources of food, then returns to the hive to pass the directions onto its mates – through the medium of dance, no less.

This intrepid twinkle-toes is a fitting muse for mead maker Oren Dalton, and the inspiration behind the name of his company, Lone Bee Mead. The Lone Bee’s story is encapsulated on the striking black-and-gold label of each bottle of the fermented-honey beverage, the work of design studio One Design.

“It has connotations of venturing out on your own, leaving the security of the hive – it’s every Kiwi success story,” says Dalton. “That lone bee’s efforts have benefited not just itself but also the hive, and I’m trying to make something that’s not only going to better myself, my family and my community, but also everyone else.”

Yes, Dalton has lofty aspirations. He envisages a mead industry developing in New Zealand to rival the wine industry, with the benefits flowing back into the lower socio-economic communities (such as the Far North, where he grew up) from where the honey is sourced. “If we make the best honey in the world, why can’t we make the best mead in the world?”

Mead is thought to be the world’s oldest alcoholic beverage, having been brewed in Africa, Asia and Europe for thousands of years. In its simplest form, it’s made from fermented honey and water, and can be still or sparkling, served warm or cold.

Its ancient roots may conjure up images of Norse gods and medieval banquets, but mead has made a comeback in recent years, particularly in the United States where it’s become a hipster tipple of choice.

Dalton first came across mead the way many of us have, seeing it pop up in historical or fantastical works of fiction. In his case, the introduction came while watching The Vikings when he was growing up, though for others it might be Lord of the Rings or Harry Potter.

Game of Thrones has even been credited for the drink’s resurgence, despite mead never actually being mentioned on the show. (There’s a lot of gulping unidentified grog from goblets, however.)

As an avid home-brewer and a honey fan, Dalton decided to try his hand at mead in the basic brewing quarters under his Auckland house. “The first batch turned out pear-shaped but I chipped away at the idea,” explains the 36-year-old.

The recipe for Lone Bee mead was developed nine years ago, and three or four years ago Dalton was confident it was good enough for a wider market. “I thought, ‘Do I carry on getting drunk with my mates under the house, or do I give this a nudge?’”

Dalton is a banker by day, as well as a father of two, and starting a business on the side has not been without its challenges. “If I had time and money, I’d be doing this full time. It’s all a challenge, to be honest, but passion just steamrolls right through that.”

Two batches have now been commercially brewed to Dalton’s recipe by an Auckland contract brewer, using New Zealand clover and mānuka honey. The result is a crisp, dry and refreshing sparkling mead, coming in at a quaffable 5.3% alcohol, which is served at bars across Auckland as well as sold by Fine Wine Delivery Co, Farro Fresh and Moore Wilson’s.

The honey was sourced from a major supplier to ensure quantity and quality. The goal, however, is to move to small regional suppliers.

“I’m so passionate about this because the best honey comes from those low socio-economic places – the East Coast, West Coast, Far North, basically where there’s bush. Champagne makes the best grapes for sparkling, Bordeaux makes the best grapes for red wine – well, we make the best honey from the bush. It makes sense.

“The demand for honey is already high but if we can create the world’s best mead, demand will go up, which means more opportunities and more employment.”

Not only that, more bees and more flowers are good for the planet. Dalton envisages gorse- and mānuka-covered paddocks and land used for intensive dairying being converted back to bush, which is good news for our waterways. “I’m just after that win-win situation – more honey, more bees, more plants, better for the globe.”

He is currently working on a couple of new mead recipes that showcase single-honey varieties – a pōhutukawa version that “encapsulates that Kiwi summer”, and a mead made from the strongly flavoured kānuka variety. He hopes to launch them at the Taste of Auckland festival in November and is keen to experiment with different herb and spice additions.

“Another goal is to create a more-wintry mead – a stronger version, more like a traditional mead, perhaps adding in citrus or a bit of ginger.”

Dalton says the original Lone Bee goes brilliantly with salty food, as well as pork, freshly smoked fish and, of course, anything that features honey.

His vision is for meaderies to pop up in honey areas, serving local food to complement different meads and making the regions a drawcard for tourists and New Zealanders alike.

This article was first published in NZ Life & Leisure magazine. For more like this or to subscribe, visit thisnzlife.co.nz