spinofflive
a handful of soil
Photo: Ehsan Hazaveh

KaiOctober 20, 2020

A world beyond our feet: Rethinking our relationship with where we grow our kai

a handful of soil
Photo: Ehsan Hazaveh

The health of our soil is intrinsically linked to the health of our people, and a new book aims to centre matauranga Māori in the quest to stop treating our soil like, well, dirt.

We hardly ever think about it, even though it’s literally under our feet. But in the coming years soil will become an increasingly crucial issue.

Nearly 99% of the world’s food production comes from fertile soil. The quality of our food is dictated by the health of the soil it is grown in. Yet, this vital resource is disappearing and being stripped at an alarming rate.

Urbanisation and infrastructure required to meet population growth are crowding out healthy soil space. Fertile tracts of land are being ripped up across the country, to make way for housing in the Bombay Hills and Pukekohe, or for highways such as the Kāpiti Coast Expressway. 

Fertilisers and pesticides are yet another strain on our soil health. Mainstays of our industrial agriculture and home gardens, these chemicals are pushing our soil to its limits. Relentless agriculture strips nutrients from the soil without replenishment. The quest for ever-greater productivity is killing our soil. “It’s like this idea of running a marathon and then running it again with no time to replenish in between,” says Jessica Hutchings (Ngāi Tahu, Ngāti Huirapa, Gujarati), kaupapa Māori researcher, activist and grower. 

It turns out we’ve been treating our soil like dirt. So it’s about time we start giving it some aroha. Even more, it’s about time we start listening to Māori voices when it comes to soil.

Te Mahi Oneone Hua Parakore: A Māori Soil Sovereignty and Wellbeing Handbook; and students from Te Wharekura o Maniapoto (Photo: Supplied by Hōhepa Heii)

Hutchings, alongside media studies academic Jo Smith (Kāi Tahu, Kāti Māmoe, Waitaha), has recently published Te Mahi Oneone Hua Parakore: A Māori Soil Sovereignty and Wellbeing Handbook, a book applying hua parakore, a Māori organic framework, to soil. The book shines a light on the importance of looking at this taonga from a Māori perspective. 

We tell our kids not to play in the mud and are quick to clean dirt off our shoes. The same goes for our food. By the time we put it in our supermarket trolleys, it looks remarkably different to how it came out of the ground. Onions with not even a trace of dirt, spotless carrots and spic-and-span kūmara. Edible symptoms of an “industrialised food system that separates us from nature”, says Hutchings.

We need to reconnect with our soil, and in Aotearoa it’s vital that we take Māori pathways to do so, says Hutchings. Very little has been written by Māori about soil previously so this new book lays the groundwork for seeing it through the perspective of tangata whenua. For Māori, soil is whanaunga, holding ancestral connections and acting as a source of kai, shelter, paint, storage and even as protection in war. This sees a shift from western science and industry which for the most part seems preoccupied with reducing soil to mere economic units, to a focus on the intrinsic relationship between soil and Māori sovereignty, wellbeing and spirituality. According to Hutchings, there is “absolutely massive potential to transform our whole relationship with soil”. 

While there is little existing literature on Māori soil science, Māori soil knowledge is rich. Māori managed mutually beneficial relationships with the soil through practices such as modifying soils using gravel, sand, shells or charcoal or fertilising soils with weeds and ash. Tangata whenua have always been soil scientists. 

Historically, mana has gone hand in hand with being able to provide for people through growing kai. Ensuring that the mana of each area of land and the soil that it is made up of is continually enhanced by our actions is an inseparable part of this. For Hutchings, defining what elevating our soil looks like is up to Māori. It means holding the Crown to account as a Treaty partner for the policies it upholds that continue to degrade this resource.

“One of the ways we could elevate the mana of soil is to recognise her personhood status,” Hutchings adds – just as the Whanganui river or Urewera National Park were in the last decade. It’s not hard to imagine that giving soil this type of status would shift the mindset when it comes to taking care of it by individuals, communities, industry and policy makers.

Beyond education and creating awareness, Hutchings believes that we need more support for Māori hua parakore, or organic agriculture and horticulture. This means growing practices that encourage biodiversity throughout our soils rather than the monocultural industry that dominates in Aotearoa. “When you fly over the motu, and you look down, it’s bloody straight fences and dairy cows, chicken and beef. Where’s the diversity?” says Hutchings. Thinking about doing things differently poses a threat to the business-as-usual approach to food production in New Zealand. 

Jessica Hutchings speaks on a panel at last year’s Food Hui alongside Te Rangikaheke Kiripatea and Manaia Cunningham (Photo: Supplied)

While controversial, the Organic Products Bill submitted to parliament earlier this year is another opportunity to think about doing things differently in this space. And the growing interest in gardening since national Covid-19 lockdowns is another sign that change is on the horizon. The objective is to harness this enthusiasm and maximise the opportunities to create small Māori food systems that are self-sustaining and community focused.

There are already models of Māori food sovereignty popping up across the country. Papatūānuku Kōkiri Marae in Māngere, South Auckland, is one example profiled in the book. The marae uses organic seedlings and regenerative planting processes to serve the kai needs of whānau on their two-acre plot of land. Its Kai Ika project runs alongside this – an initiative that sees Pākehā waste become Māori delicacy as fish frames and heads, destined for landfill, are instead redistributed to whānau. Offal from kaimoana is repurposed as soil fertiliser in the marae gardens. 

Also profiled in the book is Te Wharekura o Maniapoto, a school in Te Kūiti, a town in the heart of Ngāti Maniapoto. The school is another model of the potential to combine Māori food sovereignty with sustainable soil practices and cements the importance of passing down this knowledge to rangatahi. The school has restored the once unfertile clay of the school grounds to healthy and fertile gardens teeming with worms, insects and helpful microorganisms. Tomatoes, local varieties of kamokamo, cabbage, kūmara, rīwai and more grown in the garden are so plentiful that students are not only able to take home kai to their whānau but also provide for the wider community and even gift kai to the Kiingitanga for annual events like Koroneihana and Poukai. 

“It’s just our absolute automatic right to be able to provide for ourselves on our own land,” says Hutchings. Soil sovereignty is directly linked to aspirations of tino rangatiratanga for Māori. “It’s all tino rangatiratanga. Sometimes we just need to focus on specific things like soil sovereignty or food sovereignty in order to really accentuate the importance of that kaupapa.” 

By re-establishing this traditional gardening knowledge to protect our soils, Māori are empowered to practice manaakitanga, whanaungatanga and kaitiakitanga, values and practices often strained by the pressures of rising living costs, urbanisation and the ongoing impacts of colonisation. 

It’s hard to overstate the urgency and importance of looking after our soil. As we deal with nationwide water shortages, Hutchings believes that we’d be wise to look ahead. “In 100 years’ time this will be the water conversation – and you can’t grow soil.”

Keep going!
duncan garner vegan
duncan garner vegan

KaiOctober 19, 2020

Some friendly advice for Duncan Garner as he embarks on a year of veganism

duncan garner vegan
duncan garner vegan

Hints for a happy, healthy vegan life as the AM Show host prepares to adopt a plant-based diet for the next 12 months.

In July, MediaWorks broadcaster Duncan Garner was very confident that come election time, Labour wouldn’t receive enough votes to govern alone. So confident that he said if they did, he would do something OUT THERE. Not that he’d eat his hat, or shave his head, or move to Stewart Island, or pash Mark Richardson, or apologise to those people in the Kmart queue – he said something he felt was even more outlandish. Duncan Garner said he would go vegan for a year.

In case you missed it, Labour received 49.1% of votes on Saturday, giving them 64 seats in parliament – the party’s biggest win in half a century. We were confident that as he’s an honourable man, a man of his word, Garner would not have allowed a single morsel of animal product to pass his lips since Saturday night. But on the AM Show this morning, finance minister Grant Robertson kindly offered to take him to legendary Wellington vego restaurant Aunty Mena next time he was in town, and Garner’s “hmm” in response made us wonder. Was he wavering?

We get it, we do. Cutting out animal products is hard. But last year, a bunch of us at The Spinoff went vegan for a week, and it was fine, really. 

Some of us are even vegan full time. Woke freaks, without a doubt, but in this instance we urge Garner to listen to their kooky advice to ensure his 12 months sans animal products will be a piece of (vegan) cake. 

Josie ‘The Vegan’ Adams sampling some vegan cheese

Some wise words from Josie Adams, Spinoff staff writer and real-life vegan:

Welcome, Duncan. Please, take a seat. Two days without swineflesh must have weakened your legs. Don’t worry. Chemist Warehouse is here for you.

Vegans are roughly divided into two camps: environmental vegans and animal rights vegans. They’re not mutually exclusive. Animal rights vegans won’t eat animals or their products (milk, eggs, honey) because they object to the physical and psychological harm caused to animals. Environmental vegans are interested in bringing down the agricultural complex ravaging the earth and the climate. There’s a lot of crossover.

Basically, if you’re an environmental vegan, you have to recognise that some vegan products are also the result of intense agriculture, or at least rack up the air miles. However, environmental vegans sometimes opt to eat honey from a local hive or eggs laid by their own rescue chickens. Animal rights vegans would say this is stealing from the animals. Like any other movement, there are sects and cults. Find yours. (You don’t have to care about animals. I’ve been vegan for three years and in that time I have punched four bees, kicked a monkey, and yelled at many dogs. Please don’t call the RSPCA, they all deserved it.)

The thing you’re going to notice first is how much you miss milk products. You can actually get withdrawal symptoms from cutting out cheese. It will take about three months to stop thinking about cheese, and then you will be repulsed by it. I can smell butter from five metres away now and it’s rancid. There are vegan cheeses. Give yourself time before you try them. Seriously though, some are great. Some are… not so great. Read the ranking

Potatoes are vegan

You don’t have to lose weight. If anything, you can gain it on a steady diet of potatoes and vegan chocolate milk. Did you know that potatoes (possibly?) have all the nutrients a body needs to survive except vitamin D? Get some sun and you’ll be sweet, for a while at least. 

It doesn’t have to taste bad. Forget the weird faux meats and focus on the fact that plenty of sugary, fatty treats are vegan. Bread is vegan. All Snackachangi chips are vegan. Dairy-free ice creams from Ben & Jerry’s and Little Island are godsends.

Tofu is really good. Coat it in cornflour and spices and fry it. Everything’s good fried! 

You can still be a patriot: Marmite is vegan. Weetbix is vegan. We’re growing our own oat milk now, too.

Fake meat tips: don’t do it. There are some good plant-based “chicken” tenders out there (please note the nuggets from this brand are not vegan), but by and large when it comes to vegan food, imitation is not a form of flattery. I recommend the Better Burger mushroom burger when you’re getting a craving. *Ed’s note: Some people, such as Spinoff managing editor Duncan Greive, love fake meat. As you share a name, you may also love fake meat, but try it at your own risk. 

You will not grow breasts. The rumour that phytoestrogens in soy milk will give you tits and turn frogs gay is not true.

You don’t have to be a good person. Morrissey is a vegan. Peter Singer is a vegan. I am a vegan.

All this is vegan

Some vegan recipes for you to try: