From steaming bowls of Cambodian noodle soup to late-night servings of wedges, the trio behind Big Lizard share their most beloved food picks around central Dunedin.
A mention of central Dunedin might conjure a familiar set of images: the Octagon, sparkling views of the Otago Harbour, glorious Gothic architecture and an occasional outbreak of student shenanigans. Less frequently mentioned is the fact that it’s also home to a whole parade of marvellous things to eat.
Few people know that better than Alan Baxter, Renee Hope and Charlotte Harraway. All three grew up in Dunedin before spending years living and working overseas. Since returning home, the trio have been active within the central city’s hospitality scene. Alan and Renee opened Side On in 2019 (which closed in 2023), before joining forces with Charlotte to open Pizza Bar (which they have since sold), Big Lizard, and most recently Roslyn Bread Technologies & O.A.A, better known as “Bread Tech”.
Nearly two years after opening on Vogel Street, Big Lizard has become a fixture for hot sandwiches, coffee and a daily offering of breads, pastries and pies baked at Bread Tech. Their enthusiasm for eating isn’t just obvious in their own joints but in their broader enthusiasm for dining in central Dunedin. Here, they share their edible hit-list for the city centre.
Three words that sum up the food in central Dunedin: Diverse, accessible, humble.
Everyone has a dining out pet peeve. Mine is: QR code menus. “Have you dined with us before?”
The local dish I crave most:
Alan – Sichuan saliva chicken and fish fillet in sour cabbage broth from Impression Restaurant.
Charlotte – Braised beef noodle soup from Mr Noodles.
Renee – Gamjatang casserole from Korea House.
The best restaurant in central Dunedin is: Impression Restaurant, easily.
Why I love Impression Restaurant: The food is always consistently delicious. The menu features regional Chinese specialities which is a nice change from the predominantly Cantonese-style Chinese restaurants in Dunedin (we do still love Wong Gok and Golden Harvest though).
My go-to order is: It depends on the size of your group, but start with the classics; multigrain rice, crispy eggplant, chef’s tofu, pork with black vinegar, green beans, cumin lamb.
When I’m craving something cheap and cheerful I head to: Shinjuku Sushi Bar. The salad is a must. But the agadashi tofu, salmon don, yakiniku beef and secret off-menu teriyaki tofu rice ball are our regular rotation.
The most underrated local gem is: Impression Restaurant.
Pub or bar of choice: Woof or The Portsider.
For a late-night food fix you’ll find me at: The Two-Four (AKA Night ‘n’ Day) for wedges with sour cream and sweet chilli sauce.
Got visitors from out of town? I’m taking them to: Not strictly Dunedin Central, but a drive out to Aramoana, stopping off at The Portsider for a drink on the way back. Or head out on the opposite side of the peninsula and visit Augustines of Portobello’s farm store and kitchen for a coffee and anything on the menu served with a dollop of one of their preserves.
An ideal date spot would be: Woof. It’s fun, has great music, great staff, great drinks and often a dog to pat.
Make sure to order: A Dream State cocktail – Woof’s take on the classic Naked & Famous cocktail which involves green chartreuse, aperol, lime and mezcal. And a bowl of chippies.
Dunedin’s best…
Coffee: Cà Phê Sữa Đá, Vietnamese iced coffee, at Hi Vietnam.
Sandwich: The reuben or spicy pork at Big Lizard.
Noodles: Anything at Mr Noodles, but especially the youpo, braised beef or pickled cabbage noodles.
Pie: Japanese curry mince potato top at Roslyn Bread Tech.
Fish and chips: Great Wall Takeaways. Get the chicken bacon cheeseburger every time.
And the best place to unwrap and eat them is: John Wilson Drive (J-Dubz). Nothing but you, your kai, the seagulls, the boy racers and the vast expanse of the Southern Ocean.
Bowl of soup: Any chicken noodle soup at Friendly Khmer Satay Noodle House or South Dunedin Satay House.
Bread: Classic loaf from Roslyn Bread Tech.
Baked treat: Roslyn Bread Tech again, and also Big Lizard. We’re particularly fond of an end of the day pain au chocolat or a fresh-from-the-oven cheese and jalapeno escargot.
What defines a great pain au chocolat? Not too sweet with a buttery flaky crust, IYKYK
For a serious sweet tooth, head to: Patti’s and Cream Diner for a shake or ice cream taco.
If you’re after spice, make a beeline for: Load up on takeaways from Chilli Dhaba. The samosa and the Kashmiri naan are great, as well as the chicken chettinad. We always order extra raita and mixed pickles.
A little local treat that always cheers me up: Meat, chips and salad from Huzur Kebab.
My favourite grocery shop: Rat Countdown (it’s really quiet for some reason).
For the best produce, I stop in at: CJ Asian Supermarket or Uni Mart. We’re usually here picking up specialty vegetables like kangkung, chrysanthemum greens and soy sprouts; fresh rice cakes and kimchi; various mushrooms and good quality sesame oil; and other bits and pieces.
My favourite local hospo personality: Mustafa Bostaz from Huzur Kebab. He’s the big boss with the biggest smile in town. He knows everybody’s name. He will have you questioning your life if your order is different from your usual. Importantly, his kebabs are the best in town.
The place I’m most likely to bump into someone I know: Literally anywhere in this small town. Every restaurant, the supermarket, the playground, the doctor’s office.
A local spot I wish we could bring back from the dead is: Side on. RIP. Side on was Renee and Alan’s cafe that closed in 2023 after the city council decided to (literally) run a pipe through the middle of it. It was our first baby so we always look back on it fondly, although it was a wildly steep learning curve. It was the best of times… that mid-/ post-covid life where Dunedin was full of all these cool people that the pandemic had brought home. We had a Green mayor in Aaron Hawkins and a semi-progressive council and the city was growing and had a positive glow to it. It’s not like that any more, sadly.
A restaurant I would love to relocate to central Dunedin: Rita’s in Wellington. Great service, great food – really just the perfect restaurant.
The place I return to again and again: Impression restaurant.
Why I love eating in central Dunedin: For such a small town the dining is really varied. We pack a lot of options into a place with a small population, and if you know what to order, you’ll be getting a delicious speciality most places you go.
