This breakfast-focused Mexican spot also does a mean range of tacos and cocktails – just the ticket for a long Sunday brunch.

What is it?

Apapacho is a newish Mexican daytime fonda (meaning a small, family-run restaurant) in Wellington’s city centre run by chef Joshua Arias, with his brother Kevin working the floor. Open from 8am, the menu is focused around dishes typically eaten at breakfast: chilaquiles and huevos rancheros, for example. However, you can also order tacos and margaritas, so a long Sunday brunch is also on the cards, if that’s your preference. I would advise DMing them on Instagram to book if you’re intending to head over on the weekend, as the small space fills up quickly.

And in case you were wondering, Apapacho means a cuddle or affectionate pat – or, in Mexico, “to embrace or caress with the soul”. Apt.

Where is it?

89 Ghuznee Street, in Wellington city. It’s painted brick-red on the outside, right by the lights.

What’s new about it?

Apapacho opened in March, and from what I can tell browsing the internet – namely, Reddit, that beautiful and scary place of very human opinion – Wellingtonians have been super excited to have a new Mexican joint like this in town. I am too! I love Mexican food! Who doesn’t?

Admittedly, New Zealanders tend to become disproportionately excited whenever a new Mexican spot opens. Mexican food can be hard to properly execute here, with core ingredients that make the cuisine what it is hard to come by in this corner of the world. However, you can tell that Joshua and Kevin, who originate from Guadalajara, have managed to adapt traditional dishes to what’s available here, serving up their own version of Mexico on lil’ ole Ghuznee.

What are the vibes?

Earthy and warm. Booth seating runs along the walls, which are accented in deep wood. There are plenty of lighting fixtures which make the space soft and yellow when a cloudy Wellington day is not cooperating, including a dried corn cob chandelier-esque feature in the middle of the room. It’s casual, no-fuss and friendly – bar seating is available if you’re after a quick coffee and pastry (they do concha, which is a brioche pastry with a sugary crust of chocolate or vanilla). It’s quieter on the weekdays, but like I said, the weekends can get pretty hectic. 

What should I order?

You should definitely get the tacos. I am partial to tacos; it is one of my favourite foods in the world, and if you don’t like them then you’ve never had a good one. Apapacho offer only three options, asada (steak), suadero (brisket) and calabacita (courgette), all on a Napier-made Hands Down corn tortilla. If I were you, I’d get the suadero, which is this tallow-rich brisket, evidently slowly cooked to retain all those juices, and accompanied simply with onion and refried beans. Douse it generously in the provided hot sauce, which adds a kick but isn’t prohibitively spicy. The first time I went here I just ordered two of these, licked my fingers clean, and left happy.

But there are other things on the menu worth trying, so get an individual taco, and then a brunchy main: I’d recommend the birriaquiles, which is their version of chilaquiles (tortilla chips with salsa). It’s tossed in birria broth and topped with piles of lamb, beans and sour cream and big enough to share between two. The quesadilla frita, deep-fried corn masa with a bright and punchy salsa verde on top, is also delicious. 

You could also just keep it classic with the huevos rancheros, which is fried eggs on a tortilla base, and still have a good time. Everything is made flavourful with spices and sauces, cut through with fresh herbs and lightly pickled onion: undeniable tastiness that makes itself obvious from first bite. So I trust you could probably choose anything. 

Also, you have to make a decision on drinks, which could prove tricky. I’d recommend the café de olla, which is a Mexican coffee muddled with spices, or a horchata. For something fresh, try the daily-changing agua fresca. If it’s a reasonable hour (you get to decide this), order one of the cocktails: a breakfast margarita has marmalade in it, or just throw caution to the wind and opt for a mezcal negroni. Why not! When in Apapacho, etc etc.

What’ll it set me back?

You could dine here for as little as $14 if you get their version of eggs on toast (but theirs come with refried beans and birote, which is a Mexican sourdough bread). More likely, you’ll spend somewhere between $25 to $50pp, depending on your choice of drinks (alcoholic vs non-alcoholic) and main meal. If you do what I suggest and get the café de olla ($6), one taco ($10) and a main, say the chilaquiles ($22), then that would add up to $38.

Apapacho

89 Ghuznee Street, Te Aro

8am-3pm, Thurs-Mon