Wagner Group mercenaries sit on top of a tank in Rostov-on-Don on June 24, 2023 (Photo: Roman ROMOKHOV / AFP via Getty Images)
Wagner Group mercenaries sit on top of a tank in Rostov-on-Don on June 24, 2023 (Photo: Roman ROMOKHOV / AFP via Getty Images)

SocietyJune 26, 2023

What does the Wagner mutiny mean for Putin’s regime – and how will he retaliate?

Wagner Group mercenaries sit on top of a tank in Rostov-on-Don on June 24, 2023 (Photo: Roman ROMOKHOV / AFP via Getty Images)
Wagner Group mercenaries sit on top of a tank in Rostov-on-Don on June 24, 2023 (Photo: Roman ROMOKHOV / AFP via Getty Images)

Vladimir Putin’s authority remains intact for now, but the mutiny has put the most significant dent in the Russian leader’s power in 23 years of rule. Peter Bale explains what it all means, and what could happen next.

Beware of Vladimir Putin when he is pushed into a corner and has to reassert his prestige and the sense of dread he has held over rivals, lieutenants and foreign governments for more than 20 years.

The extraordinary mutiny by mercenaries loyal to oligarch Yevgeny Prigozhin, a former close confidant of the Russian president known as “Putin’s chef” who heads the Wagner Group private army, is far from a coup – though over-eager commentators have called it that. It could lead to a coup but there is no sign yet that anyone is in the wings with a serious chance or intent to topple Putin.

However, it is absolutely the most significant dent in Putin’s authority in his entire rule and we should be fearful of how a cynical and embattled leader may react. 

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“President Putin is facing the most serious challenge of his 23 years in power,” historian Mark Galeotti wrote in The Sunday Times (paywalled). “Even if the immediate crisis may be defused thanks to the intervention of Belarusian president Lukashenko, the damage is done. When history records his downfall, it will say the endgame began here.”

Putin has a history of dramatic and deadly actions to cement his control, from the apartment bombings that may have paved the way for him to take power and led to the second Chechen War, to the Beslan school massacre, and the mysterious Moscow theatre siege. In each case his tactics showed he is prepared to sacrifice many others to bolster his position.

Given he faces what he has called a traitorous mutiny and a “stab in the back” in the middle of a war against Ukraine and what he has twisted into a war waged against Russia by the west, we have to fear his response may be to lash out, distract, and reclaim the upper hand.

Wagner Group head Yevgeny Prigozhin leaving the military headquarters he seized in Rostov-on-Don on June 24 (Photo: Stringer/Anadolu Agency via Getty Images)

Ukraine appears to have taken the initiative amid the chaos created by the mutiny along parts of the long eastern border with Russian-occupied Ukrainian provinces. 

It has to be significant that the Wagner Group mercenaries run by Prigozhin were easily able to take control of a primary Russian command centre in the city of Rostov-on-Don. They have withdrawn now apparently under an agreement supposedly brokered between Putin and Prigozhin by Belarus’s president Alexander Lukashenko.

Under the purported agreement, Prigozhin will move to Belarus, his men can apply to join the Russian conventional forces, and no one will face retribution. Yeah, right.

The mutiny has blown up just as Ukraine appeared to be making only limited progress against Russian lines and in the same week Russia confirmed that intercontinental ballistic missiles moved recently to Belarusian territory were ready for operations.

Prigozhin launched his operation after months of increasingly bitter attacks on the Russian military establishment for their conduct of the war against Ukraine and their alleged lack of supplies and even attacks on Wagner units. Now the attempted mutiny clouds the entire picture of the invasion of Ukraine, the risks of western support for Kyiv, and the future of Putin himself.

Russian secret police raided Wagner offices in Moscow and St Petersburg (supposedly finding $38 million in cash), while authorities closed museums and shopping centres in the Russian capital, and built roadblocks and trenches against a thin convoy of Wagner mercenaries heading towards the city from Rostov 1,000km away.

In a televised address, Putin condemned the ‘traitorous mutiny’ (Photo: Artem Priakhin/SOPA Images/LightRocket via Getty Images)

For once, the Ukraine war came to the streets of Moscow in a way that couldn’t be hidden from the public, though this time it was Russian soldiers of fortune posing the threat. Putin compared the mutiny to the 1917 collapse of Russian forces against Germany in the first world war, which historians will point out led to the communist takeover and the establishment of the Soviet Union. Ukraine may have brought the war to Moscow with the pinpricks of drone attacks, but this is a much greater disruption to the life of Muscovites and to the authority of Putin.

“Is Putin facing his Czar Nicholas II moment,” asked a subheadline over an analysis in The Atlantic (paywalled), by historian Anne Applebaum, who went on: “In a slow, unfocused sort of way, Russia is sliding into what can only be described as a civil war.”

In the febrile climate created by the Wagner mutiny and the war in Ukraine, conspiracy theorists and genuine experts went into overdrive with ideas – from the mutiny being organised by Putin to justify a crackdown on the military, or on Wagner, or that Prigozhin really was standing up to Putin and genuinely angry at the loss of Wagner troops in a conflict he has repeatedly said is badly run and suppled by corrupt Russian military top brass.

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Phillips Payson O’Brien, a strategic studies academic at St Andrews University, wrote in The Atlantic (paywalled) that he believed it was a pre-planned move by Prigozhin, whose Wagner mercenaries have a long history in Syria and Africa before joining the Ukraine campaign. “What we’ve witnessed over the past 24 hours has every appearance not of a spontaneous mutiny but of an extremely well-planned attempt to manipulate President Vladimir Putin and even threaten his rule,” he wrote.

Galeotti, in The Sunday Times, concluded: “The three pillars on which Putin’s regime rest are his personal legitimacy, his control of the security apparatus, and his capacity to throw money at intractable problems. The money is dwindling, his already-decaying legitimacy is going to take a further hit, and the unity and loyalty of the security apparatus is clearly now open to question. Putin seems likely to defuse or defeat this specific challenge, but will still take what may in the long term prove to be a mortal wound.”

Recommended reading and ways to keep on top of this story

In Moscow’s Shadows is the podcast and blog of historian and academic Mark Galeotti, who offers sober analysis and insights into the emerging players around the Kremlin.

Wagner chief’s 24 hours of chaos in Russia, by the BBC Moscow correspondent Steve Rosenberg, who offers calm and experienced analysis, is a good read.

The Guardian live blog on the Ukraine invasion is a generally solid way to stay on top of fast-unfolding events.

BBC World Service Newshour is always a useful update but a special on Sunday hosted by Lyse Doucet was particularly insightful, especially an interview with New York-based historian – and yes, great-granddaughter of Soviet leader Nikita Khrushchev – Nina Khrushcheva.

For more international coverage like this, sign up to the The Spinoff Members and receive The Bulletin World Weekly, Peter Bale’s round-up of the biggest stories in world news, in your inbox every Thursday.

Keep going!
Image: Archi Bana
Image: Archi Bana

SocietyJune 24, 2023

How I learned to (properly) love my clothes

Image: Archi Bana
Image: Archi Bana

Overcoming the urge to endlessly consume requires forming real, genuine relationships with your clothes, writes Janhavi Gosavi.

Reduce, Reuse, Recycle is the sustainability jingle I used to mindlessly hum. 

I pride myself on purchasing most of my clothes secondhand and wearing them for years, ticking off the “recycle” and “reuse” boxes. But, like many people I know, I have been failing to “reduce” the rate at which I consume clothing. 

I self-identify as a Material Girl and will never be a Marie Kondo-certified minimalist. While I don’t go on elaborate spending sprees and buy a new wardrobe for every season, I do have much more than my fair share of clothing. Collecting trinkets scratches an itch in my brain.  

In the past, battling overconsumption was … a battle. It involved a lot of umm-ing and ahh-ing at pretty garments on a rack before scolding myself for being gluttonous. In moments of desperation, I created online shopping accounts and filled my carts to the brim, with no intention of proceeding to checkout, just to feel something. 

The issue wasn’t that I didn’t have enough clothes, it’s that I failed to find satisfaction in what I already owned. 

That changed once I replaced my old urge to buy new clothes with a new urge to take care of my old clothes. It was the clothing equivalent of feeling hungry as an adult and admitting to myself there was food at home. 

I speak to Genevieve Rae, a textile designer based in Pōneke, who supported my new coping mechanism. The best way to build a relationship with your clothes, she says, is to actively engage with them. When you spend your days knocking tasks off of a to-do list, little time is left to truly see objects, let alone give them respect or care. Mending holes and replacing buttons adds a personal touch to an otherwise mass produced item. 

Rae applies multispecies philosophy to designing sustainable mycelium materials in her Masters in Design at Te Herenga Waka—Victoria University of Wellington. She describes multispecies philosophy as a framework to think about how different entities interact with each other and impact the ecosystem they all exist within. 

In this case, the ecosystem is my bedroom, and the entities include myself and all of my clothes, shoes and rogue bits of jewellery. Rae conceptualises these entities – inanimate objects included – as having agency. “You can try to control your clothes as much as you want to … but realistically they will morph and deteriorate and change over time,” she explains. 

Photo: Getty Images

Ecosystems require relationships to be symbiotic; my clothes provide for me, so I must provide for them. 

On a sunny Sunday, I make plans with my white tees. Stain remover, bluing liquid, warm wash, cold rinse, air dry. Cleaned by hand, delicate but thorough. With the colder months settling in, I round up my jumpers and use a worn out razor to shave any piling off. For those of us busy with work or taking care of whānau, Rae insists that practising gratitude towards your possessions doesn’t have to be time consuming. 

When disposing of your belongings, you could do a quick ritual for them. At the start of the year, I let go of a small leather wallet I had used everyday since I was 17. For my quick ritual, I held my wallet in my hands, memorising the shape of it, and felt the urge to take a photo before throwing it away. 

Rae tells me to kick it up a notch. “Get crazy with it and talk to your things. Personify them, sing a song to them, give them life force.” 

It’s easy for me to attribute life force to an object made of visibly natural resources. I can look at a straw hat or a cotton shirt and visualise its entire life cycle. It’s hard to relate to clothes made from plastic. While plastic comes from raw materials like coal and crude oil, I can’t conceptualise its creation or destruction. The only emotion I feel when I look at a pair of nylon pants is the dread that they will wind up in a landfill and refuse to die. 

strewn textiles in a big pile
A pile of discarded clothing and textiles in Jakarta, Indonesia (Photo: Getty Images)

Just because I throw those pants away, doesn’t mean they cease to exist. My pants’ synthetic threads are more durable than my flesh and bones. We will both someday be buried and forgotten; I will be absorbed by the earth while my shirt slowly breaks down into microplastics, distant but not gone. That brutal reminder makes me cringe away from enticing window displays at fast fashion stores. 

Buying clothes en mass felt like I was going on a string of first dates with a bunch of strangers, without pursuing any of them further. The more garments I had, the more choices I had and the fewer times I wore each individual garment. My attraction to them remained superficial because I kept them at arm’s length. 

Buying fewer clothes and wearing garments more often feels like intentionally picking one person to go on a second, third, and fourth date with. A deeper connection blossoms because I’ve gotten to know them better. 

I have two suede skirts; one’s a stranger, one’s a partner. 

The stranger is deep maroon with gold hardware, fresh off the rack from Forever New. She hangs pristine in a garment bag. I never reach for her. 

The two skirts (Images: Janhavi Gosavi)

The friend is heavy and black, salvaged from the Salvation Army for $14. I spent an hour gently spot cleaning the stains off of her with an old toothbrush, and sprayed on three coats of suede protector. While I waited for the layers to dry, I looked up the “Ashley Fogel” tag. 

Fogel was a well-established New Zealand designer who started his self-titled label after 40 years in the fashion business. He was forced to shut down his Miramar factory in 2012 after Wellington’s rising rents and competition from overseas retailers made running an independent label unsustainable. Today, Fogel’s pieces can only be found in secondhand boutiques and op-shops. Every time I wear my black suede skirt, I feel like I’m carrying a piece of Wellington’s fashion history with me. 

My room is dotted with clothes I’ve mended in some way. Cardigans with reinforced buttons, dresses with shortened straps. I like running my fingers over the botched stitching. The alterations might be janky but they’re my fuckups, and I love my clothes more for them. There is nothing more Material Girl than being so attached to your clothes, you simply won’t part with them for anything, no matter how new and shiny and potentially-on-sale it is. 

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