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A regenerative experiment on a Northland dairy farm (supplied)
A regenerative experiment on a Northland dairy farm (supplied)

BusinessNovember 4, 2019

With the walls closing in, regenerative farming is a way forward for agriculture

A regenerative experiment on a Northland dairy farm (supplied)
A regenerative experiment on a Northland dairy farm (supplied)

A quiet revolution is growing on New Zealand farms. As debates on water and emissions grind on, a new group of farmers are showing us the way forward – regenerating the land, and themselves, writes Daniel Eb.  

Mum has a saying: when you’re boxed into a corner, move the walls. It’s a reference to the two-sided nature of crisis – that in difficulty lies opportunity.

New Zealand agriculture is not in a crisis, but we all feel the tension rising. They’re a tough bunch, our farmers, but this wave of anger and pain in response to new freshwater and emissions proposals is a clear indication that they’re hurting. A recent morning radio show turned into a public, cathartic release for many Kiwi farmers who just wanted to be heard.

There’s a pervading sense that farming as we know it is under threat – that the walls are closing in. This is a global issue. Australian farmers are losing the fight against historic drought. American farmers are struggling, battling record flooding, reckless trade policy and the breakdown of the family farm way of life. Dutch farmers recently blocked motorways in protest against environmental reforms; some Kiwi farmers have called for the same.

But if Mum’s right, and opportunity really does lie in the middle of difficulty, where does the agricultural community go from here? As we brace ourselves for oncoming crises – rural mental health, social license and policy, labour shortages, the new look Fonterra – what are our new ideas to hold onto amid the pain?

In my work advocating for transformation in our food system, I see a new group of farmers who are breaking the norms of farming in NZ. These people give me hope. They’re pioneering the quiet revolution that is regenerative agriculture.

On the surface, regenerative agriculture is about going back to farming basics. It’s using diversity (crops, pastures and animals) in combination to enrich the soil. It’s about building more resilient, circular farming systems that minimise off-farm inputs like imported feed or energy intensive fertiliser. It’s about building (aka sequestering) carbon in the soil, integrating farming and forestry and rebuilding local communities with smaller, family run farms. You can find a better overview right here.

The core principles of regenerative agriculture. Image: General Mills

But it’s not just the practices that make regenerative agriculture a source of hope. It’s the people. These are dyed in the wool Kiwi farmers who have conversations from a place of vulnerability and humility. They talk honestly about pain – the prospect of losing the farm, the strain of just keeping pace with rising costs and falling prices or the legacy they’re leaving behind.

Grief is often the start of the regenerative journey. Anecdotal evidence suggests that these farmers often experience some personal trauma or crisis that inspires a deep re-evaluation of the things that matter – their purpose, impact and relationships.

What follows, though, is enthusiasm and action. In fields and Facebook groups around the country, they meet, share notes and move forward together. They aren’t waiting for industry or government, they’re doing the best they can, with what they have, on the land they love.

Take Hawke’s Bay farmers Greg and Rachel Hart for example. They use their farm, Mangarara Station, as a canvas for regenerative experiments. A mobile chicken coop follows stock to better fertiliser pastures, a small dairy herd feeds the Berkshire pigs, holistic grazing increases soil carbon to build drought resilience and soil fertility. The Harts and their partners have planted more than 100,000 native trees and are building a tight-knit community centred on their eco-lodge. Their final product, prime Angus beef, sells for a premium in Auckland butcheries. Their passion, energy and optimism shone through in their Country Calendar and On Farm Story episodes.

Recently I visited a Northland dairy farmer just starting his regenerative journey. His ‘way in’ was a combination of nearing burn-out and the birth of his son. He realised that the legacy he was leaving for his son just didn’t sit right. Wading through his chest high, 12 species forage grass and legume mix experiment, he dug his hands into the soil and pulled up a root-filled, dark brown mix crawling with earthworms. “This was my worst paddock” he said, “this is year one, imagine this place decades from now”.

A regenerative workshop on Mangarara Farm, Hawke’s Bay (photo: supplied)

Most Kiwi farms don’t look like Mangarara Station. Most Kiwi farmers don’t talk like my Northland dairy farmer friend.

Compared to the pace, inclusiveness, adaptability and optimism of the regenerators, conventional farming feels mired in confrontation. We’re arguing about 5% inclusion in the emissions trading scheme by 2025 and definitions of swimmable vs wadeable rivers. Farmers feel ignored, unheard and under-valued. Despite good prices, confidence is low. The dividing lines are becoming entrenched – farmers vs government, rural vs urban, farmers vs farmers.

This all gets dressed up as things that just aren’t true, but get clicked on. That townies don’t like farmers (they love them), farmers don’t care about water (they do) or that we should phase out animal farming (we shouldn’t).

But let’s put the bullshit aside and be honest. This pain we feel is real and it’s bigger than any one issue. It’s the pressure of the conventional model hitting its social, political, economic and environmental limits.

It doesn’t matter anymore how we got here or who’s to blame. All that matters now is how we move forward and gear up for the challenges heading our way. Farmers, regenerative or not, will be on the frontlines of change and are our single best asset in the fight.

I’ll be the first to admit that there are gaps in the regenerative framework – a desperate need for more research, actionable first-steps and, critically, a channel to earn price premiums and buy in from customers.

But for an increasing number of Australian and American farmers in crisis, the luxury of wait and see isn’t an option. These are the markets that are leading regenerative agriculture and earning first-mover advantage by building the wider food system apparatus – the brands and labels – to support it.

Marketing regenerative agriculture has already started in the US.

Beyond the farm, regeneration is a call to action for all of us. It connects with people, because it’s a response to the things we lose in our modern way of life – the fracturing of communities, environmental degradation, human health and wellbeing.

Regeneration frames us as active participants and Kaitiaki (guardians) of the land and people that give our lives meaning. It empowers us with the responsibility, not just to maintain these things, but to nurture, grow and where necessary rebuild them. It’s a powerful story to tell, and it’s our story to tell. NZ Story have already started with their gripping ‘powered by place’ campaign.

In marketing speak, regenerative agriculture will elevate our food and fibre from commodities bought without thought, to belief-driven products that global customers choose because we stand for something they want to believe in.

If we want to achieve incredible results, we have to do incredible things. That’s why we have a Primary Sector Council building a new vision and pathway to change. I have every confidence that the values and tenacity of the Kiwi farmer will see us through. But we need to look at ourselves honestly and admit that the pain we feel is our model getting boxed in.

Let’s not wait for crisis. Now is the time for courage and new ideas. Let’s move the walls.

Photo: Getty
Photo: Getty

BusinessNovember 2, 2019

How the hospitality industry incentivises smoking

Photo: Getty
Photo: Getty

The reward for being a smoker in the hospitality industry? Extra break time than non-smokers, causing many hospo workers to pick up the bad habit. 

For years it’s been a running joke in the hospitality industry that in order to get more breaks, young workers should start smoking. But it turns out there’s actually some truth to that statement.

Josh is 19 and has been working in hospitality for just over two years as a waiter at a popular Auckland restaurant. He started smoking after noticing his workmates getting almost double the breaks he was entitled to because they smoked.

“In my old job you would only get one break per shift if you didn’t smoke,” he says, “I have one friend who doesn’t smoke and has been with me in both of my jobs and sometimes she doesn’t get breaks. We work the same hours and she won’t get a break but I will because I smoke.”

Josh isn’t the only one with this story. Jen also started smoking because her hospitality job allowed smokers extra breaks during shifts, but three years into her hospitality career, Jen’s now addicted to nicotine. 

“In 2017 I developed anxiety and I think part of that was due to how much I was working… On a 15-hour shift when you would only have one 30 minute break, that’s when you start smoking.”

She estimates that when she first started working at a popular Wellington venue, smokers were getting 15-20 minutes more break time than other employees over a 10-hour shift. 

“If you were asking for a smoke break it was expected that you would be given one. It may not be right away but the manager would rarely say ‘no’ compared to other breaks.”

Photo: Getty.

Sophie Gilmour is the owner of hospitality consultancy Delicious Business. She has worked in the industry for years and says smoking is not a new issue in hospitality.

“This certainly applied during all my days as a waitress in hospitality: the smokers got guaranteed breaks and everyone else’s were [often] up for debate.”

Gilmour says a lot of places are aware of this issue. The business she used to own would time everyone’s breaks to make sure they were fair for all employees, but not all businesses do.

A Smokefree New Zealand spokesperson said the organisation did not want to comment as the issue was “not one [they] have heard about or have any information or research on.”

But Jen and Josh say it’s an issue everyone they work with knows about. Jen knows countless others who have taken up smoking because of the job. 

“I’ve noticed it with quite a few of my friends. Hospo is a lot of fun but it can be monotonous so having those extra five-minute smoke breaks throughout the day really helps to break it up.” 

But what about employee health? Marisa Bidois from Restaurant NZ says there have been significant moves towards wellbeing in hospitality over the past few years. 

“I hear more from members creating opportunities to connect with their teams over staff meals rather than smoke breaks,” she says, but agrees smoking has been an issue in the past. 

“I think historically [the issues surrounding] smoking and breaks were accurate in some workplaces, but there has been a big shift in our industry in the last five-to-10 years with regard to this.”

The change of break laws in the Employment Relations Amendment Act 2018, which came into effect in early May, could also help stop people from picking up the habit.

“Now if you work a six-to-10 hour shift, you’re entitled to two 10-minute breaks and one half-hour break, so people who smoke are probably doing that during their 10s now,” says Jen. 

Gilmour says good businesses also need to be creating new rituals in place of smoking. 

“I used to put my feet in iced water for 15 mins when I’d been on them for 14 hours! Massage or meditation facilities would be a good time. What about subsidising gym memberships or providing an incentive for not smoking?”

Josh says at no point has anyone at his work expressed concern that he’s started smoking because it’s so commonplace in the industry. Before he started smoking, Josh sometimes wouldn’t get any breaks. He knows it’s illegal, but in the high-turnover industry for many young workers, it’s easier to pick up a cigarette than to start an employment dispute.

“From a legal standpoint you’re supposed to have a break after every six hours of work and that’s written into my contract but that never happens, so even if there was a law to change it I don’t know how or if it would ever change.”

As the target of Smokefree 2025 looms closer there is a lot of scepticism that this target will be reached. In 2017/18, 15% of New Zealand’s population were regular smokers. To hit that ‘Smokefree’ target, the government wants to get this number down to under 5%. According to the New Zealand Health Survey, between 2006/07 and 2017/18, the rate of smoking fell just 5%. From now until 2025, this rate of decline would need to more than double.