Coriander has far more than its fair share of foes. That’s all the more reason for coriander fans to show the herb some love – and add it to everything.
Is there a single ingredient more deeply controversial than coriander? Unlike other disputed foods, where people are divided based on ethics (animal products), culture (Marmite; haggis), or being told it’s bad (MSG), the controversy surrounding coriander is likely embedded within our very genome.
Many people, myself included, love the fragrance and depth that coriander brings to a dish – but for around one in four people, coriander is repulsive, described as tasting similar to soap, rot, vomit, or stink bugs. It’s like a culinary practical joke. Surrounded by people who happily enjoy coriander, for them it tastes like an old-fashioned punishment for mouthing off.
It seems to be pretty widely known now that how people perceive coriander is genetic. In fact, people commonly ask Google “Is coriander hatred genetic?” and “How rare is cilantro soap gene?” (Cilantro, by the way, is the Spanish word for coriander.)
The “yuck, coriander” experience is likely associated with the gene OR6A2, which helps us to detect smells and picks up on chemicals called aldehydes, which are present in soap, detergents, and stink bugs. For the coriander-repulsed, the sensitivity to aldehydes is much stronger, and there may also be an inability to sense the positive coriander attributes that others appreciate.
If you’re wondering who is most likely to spit out their coriander, the trait is based on your descendants. People of East Asian and Caucasian descent are more likely to be repelled by coriander (21% and 17%, respectively), while far fewer South Asian, Hispanic, and Middle Eastern people have an issue with the herb (just 7%, 4%, and 3%).
A quick side note on coriander seeds: the dried fruit of the coriander plant. Warm, citrusy, and nutty, these seeds are worthy of their own article. Essential to Indian cuisine where they’re often paired with cumin, coriander seeds are also used for pickling vegetables, added to rye bread and Belgian beers, used to flavour gin, and were one of the original secret ingredients in Coca Cola.
To get the most from coriander seeds, buy them whole, dry roast them in a pan until beautifully fragrant, and then grind them yourself. Pre-ground spices always lose their potency and flavour over time, so if you have some dried coriander seeds in your spice drawer dating back to 2015, you’re not getting their best side.
Where to find coriander
Unless you have a flourishing herb garden, it’s off to the green grocer or supermarket for you – and there are an overwhelming number of coriander options. I doubt you, dear reader, want to know it all, so in summary…
If you’re after bang for your buck, the biggest bag of coriander you can buy is 100g from the Fresh Grower, which you can get for $4.50 from Countdown or $3.99 from Supie. New World has bags of Tasman Bay Herbs at 75g for $7.49, and 70g Pams bags for $4.99. Pak’nSave also has 70g Pams bags for $4.49.
You can also buy smaller 15g packets of cut coriander, which are almost as expensive as the biggies – $4.50 from Countdown, $4.49 from New World, and $3.50 from both Pak’nSave and Supie.
If the idea of cut herbs makes you sad, large living potted coriander plants are $4.50 from Countdown, $4.29 from New World, and $3.99 from Pak’nSave. Keep in mind that these plants can be difficult to successfully transplant into the garden, and you end up with a plastic pot full of soil that you don’t necessarily need. Choices, choices.
How to keep coriander fresh
The problem with buying a big cost-effective bag of coriander is keeping it fresh. Unless you’re making a giant pot of coriander-scented dahl (please do), most of that lovely 100g bag will get brown and soggy, and be chucked in the bin after less than a week.
Happily, there are a few techniques to keep cut coriander fresh for weeks, and as a bonus, following through with these might make you feel as if you’re Martha Stewart (before the criminal conviction). First, remove any damaged, soggy, or wilting leaves – if you don’t, they’ll spread through the rest of the coriander like wilted wildfire. Like many a domestic chore, this is best done in front of some thoughtless TV. Next, line a lidded container with a dampened paper towel, pile the coriander on top, and top with another damp paper towel. It should last like this, quite magically, for about two weeks in the fridge.
Another option is to again remove any bad leaves, and then stick the coriander stems in a glass of water, like a bouquet. Cover the leaves with a small plastic bag, and put in the fridge to chill out. The possibility of knocking over the water and getting everything in the fridge wet and coriander-y puts me off this option, but for less klutzy households, this could be the one.
Another way to make coriander worthwhile while you have it: put it in everything.
How to make coriander amazing
Coriander is an important ingredient in many of my favourite cuisines, including Mexican, Thai, Vietnamese and Indian. I love a prawn and coriander dumpling, a coriander-infused guacamole, a fresh spring roll heaped with herbs, or a good sprinkle of coriander leaves on top of almost any Indian curry.
For some cooking inspiration, this lovely Mexican black bean soup, topped with homemade salsa, sour cream, and avocado, has a base of sautéed finely chopped coriander stems, which gives the meal a real subtlety and depth.
These Thai-style chicken and sweetcorn fritters are a new favourite of mine – full of chopped fresh coriander as well as spring onion, red curry paste, and lemongrass. Full of of fragrance, and then dipped in nước chấm. Another new creation are these incredibly moreish chicken, coriander, and jalapeño pizzas, which replace a standard tomato base with a spicy blend of tomato passata, fresh coriander, jalapeños, and spices.
But can anything beat that fresh mint and coriander duo in a beautiful vermicelli salad paired with crunchy tumeric fish, or a lovely chicken or pork mince laab? I really don’t think so. If you want something zesty, light, and fresh, often nothing else will do.
Wyoming Paul is the co-founder of Grossr, and runs a weekly meal plan that connects to online supermarket shopping.
