a model portrait of a woman with a bleached blonde bob and striking red lipstick. in the background a cityscape of downtown Auckland at night
Downtown Auckland and Geeling Ching modelling in the 2018 New Zealand Fashion Week (Portrait: Michael Ng/Getty Images)

Kaiabout 9 hours ago

Where to eat in downtown Auckland – an insider’s guide

a model portrait of a woman with a bleached blonde bob and striking red lipstick. in the background a cityscape of downtown Auckland at night
Downtown Auckland and Geeling Ching modelling in the 2018 New Zealand Fashion Week (Portrait: Michael Ng/Getty Images)

Hospitality stalwart Geeling Ching’s favourite downtown Auckland bites include wonton soup inside a mall and freshly shucked oysters in the ferry building.

“I have lived in the central city for over 20 years. I’ve seen places come and go, the influence of our growing Asian population, explored the city’s venues both big and small, embraced the diversity we now offer,” says model, actress, hospitality maven and Tāmaki Makaurau icon Geeling Ching.

After decades working front-of-house at some of the city’s most legendary – and occasionally notorious establishments – including Cin Cin and Ramses, Ching has returned to Soul Bar & Bistro as general manager. Ching was involved with the waterfront institution at its opening in 2001, spending 12 years helping to shape the restaurant before eventually departing. Now, she’s back. “I have come full circle and am back in my hospo home,” she says.

Of her affection for her downtown Auckland stomping grounds, Ching says, “I love how cosmopolitan we have become. I love that we have such a great range of offerings to suit every taste and pocket, every lifestyle and every time of day (well, almost).”

Three words that sum up the food in downtown Auckland: That’s too hard!

Everyone has a dining out pet peeve. Mine is: Poor service, rudeness, lack of training.

The local dish I crave most: The kingfish tartare, mango, jalapeño, avocado and lime corn cracker at Somm on Princes Wharf. I loved the kokoda here and when they took it off the menu I nearly cried – but this replacement is equally addictive.

The best restaurant in downtown Auckland is: Soul, of course!

Why I love Soul: It is warm, reliable and welcoming – the kind of place people always feel good coming back to. We’re also incredibly lucky to have executive chef Gavin Doyle, who really gets to unleash his creativity here. The menu has that perfect mix of Soul favourites that people crave and fresh new dishes that make dining here feel exciting every time you visit.

My go-to order is: It was the delicious fig toast with ricotta and cherry mostarda (the perfect bite) but sadly figs are out of season now; so maybe the pappardelle with beef short rib ragu – the ultimate comfort food. Or the green goddess – tastes delicious and it’s good for you! And there’s always the perla potatoes with miso beurre blanc – super more-ish.

When I’m craving something cheap and cheerful I head to: The White Lady. Either for a ham and cheese toastie or if I’m really hungry a classic cheeseburger. Always reliable. The Lady has been around for so long for a good reason. And it’s always a great place to people-watch.

The most underrated local gem is: Ekiben – the takeaway sushi store located in the Waitematā train station. Opened by a team of Korean chefs (who worked at Soul previously), the sushi is super fresh and delicious. They also have ekiben (little meals on rice), noodles, snacks. Try the “scoop pies” – perfectly sized desserts for a sweet treat. They do catering and helpfully, they’re open till 7pm if I need to grab a quick dinner.

A place I’ve been dying to try is: Sumi at City Works Depot. I love Japanese food and I love that we are seeing more “street-food” style venues rather than fine dining-esque establishments.

Also Trivet in the JW Marriot. Wallace Mua is an ex-Soul chef. He’s creative, kind, a truly lovely human being. And he met his wife at Soul so it’s a gorgeous love story. They are beautiful people in every way.

For a late-night food fix you’ll find me at: The White Lady.

Downton Auckland’s best… 

Sandwich: The bánh mì at Nam Nam in Commercial Bay. Roast pork is my go-to; they have the balance of ingredients down perfectly

Bowl of soup: Eden Noodles’ wontons in chicken soup – a childhood favourite.

Baked treat: I LOVE pies, so Roti Bros in Commercial Bay would have to be a favourite. A pie in roti pastry? Genius!

What defines a great pie? A pie is a very simple concept so every part must be great – the pastry (or in this case the roti), the filling (all delicious); truly a sum of only two parts that need to be perfect.

If you’re after spice, make a beeline for: Cafe Hanoi. Vietnamese food tends toward a softer kind of spice – but still so delicious.

A little local treat that always cheers me up: A dozen freshly shucked oysters with a glass of bubbles at Shucker Brothers in the ferry building, while waiting for the ferry.

My favourite grocery shop: Japan Mart – so many interesting things! I always end up buying more than I had planned.

For the best produce, I stop in at: The Fish Market in Wynyard Quarter. Everything seafood-y in one place, from fresh to smoked to frozen, whole or fillets, shellfish and crustaceans, tins of great sardines, even lemons!

a compilation of five restaurant store fronts lit up with signs at night
Clockwise from top left: Roti Bros, Grand Harbour, The White Lady, Cafe Hanoi and Ekiben

For outstanding people watching, go to: The White Lady after midnight on a Friday or Saturday night. Or, the front terrace at Soul any time.

The place I’m most likely to bump into someone I know: Ditto the above.

The place I go to avoid bumping into anyone I know: Ah if I told you that then it wouldn’t be a secret would it? But I’m quite fond of hotel lobby bars….

The place I return to again and again: Grand Harbour does the best yum cha in the city. A favourite with family and friends. It’s a must when people say they have never been to yum cha – they are blown away by the experience.

A restaurant I would love to relocate to downtown Auckland: Andiamo. Good Italian is hard to find downtown.

Why I love eating in downtown Auckland: It’s a foodie’s paradise; you can always find something good whether you’re looking to splurge, celebrate, eat cheap and cheerful, or grab something on the run.