Co-owner of Pour and Twist, Elaine Loh, maps out the essential food destinations across these neighbouring Wellington suburbs. Expect onion bhaji from a dairy, charcoal toasted s’mores and dressed-up three-course set menus.
“One of my favourite activities is eating, so I’ve done my fair share of exploring Wellington,” says Elaine Loh. Born and raised in the capital, she has lived in the city her entire life.
Loh is the co-owner of Pour and Twist in central Wellington. When it opened in 2017, it was the country’s first fully manual coffee brew bar and has since become a favourite among Te Whanganui-a-Tara’s coffee (and increasingly, matcha) aficionados. On July 15, Pour and Twist will turn nine. “It’s crazy to think we have stuck around for so long,” Loh says. “We just feel so lucky to still be here, especially with a lot of places closing down in Wellington the last few years. We’ve got such a great community.”
Earlier this year, Loh’s husband and Pour and Twist co-owner Zuyi Woon, along with friends, opened Octo, a new listening bar in Aro Valley, which has given Loh even more reason to explore this pocket of the city.
Loh’s knowledge of food, and of Wellington, runs deep. But perhaps her greatest qualification is this: “I’m usually the chosen friend that has to decide where the group eats.”
Three words that sum up the food in Aro Valley/Kelburn: Underrated, authentic, unpretentious.
Everyone has a dining out pet peeve. Mine is: When they don’t give you water for the table!! If you’re not going to give me a jug of water then I expect top tier glass refilling service, I’m a thirsty gal!
The local dish I crave most: The roti and dhal curry at Upesh Kitchen. They are a Malaysian and South Indian restaurant in Kelburn and are one of the few places in Wellington that make their roti FRESH. Also their masala dosai, it’s like a crispy crepe made with fermented rice and lentils and you can choose the filling.
The best restaurant in Aro Valley is: Octo (hehe)
Why I love Octo: They only just opened in May but it feels like they’ve been there forever. Octo is a trinity of a listening bar, cocktails and yakitori. Record store by day with toasties and coffee, but from 4pm it’s great music (vinyl only), the lights are proper dim and the charcoal grill is on. It took them two years to get up and running and they overcame so many obstacles along the way. From building everything from scratch to perfecting the sound (no yelling needed when chatting to your mate). So much care has gone into creating the space. It’s cosy and chill, you can sit up at the bar and have a Kirin beer on tap with some snacks or go with some friends and get a bunch of cocktails and skewers – either way it’s a good time.
My go-to order is:
1. Curry cheese fries: curry seasoning, generous grated cheese throughout, not just on top, and fragrant crispy curry leaves. YUM.
2. Tebasaki (chicken wings): butterflied chicken wing skewers so the bones come off easily as you eat.
3. Chicken hearts: a must try if you’ve never had them before. They have a deep and savoury taste and come with a bit of kick with the yuzu pepper sauce.
4. Mushrooms: so juicy, buttery and satisfying.
5. Rice ball: rice and corn, with kewpie mayo and seaweed. The rice is a bit crispy on the outside too.
When I’m craving something cheap and cheerful I head to: Te Aro Fish Supplies. Their wontons are only $1 each *gasp*.
The most underrated local gem is: Upesh Kitchen. You can’t beat a fresh, flakey roti. Upesh makes it himself!
Celebrating with a group? Book a table at: A lot of the restaurants in these areas are intimate and cosy so it’s a bit tricky. But if there’s about six of you then hit up Rita. If you’re not going to hang out at home, then might as well hang out at a cute little cottage where someone else cooks you a beautiful three-course meal with options to add on sides and delicious wine.
Pub or bar of choice: Octo.
The BYO I keep going back to: Young Shing – a casual Chinese restaurant. OK, to be honest, it’s a little too bright in there for my liking because I can’t hide my Asian flush, but it’s such a vibe on a busy BYO night so it’s fine. Have their deep fried squid and crispy and spicy chicken while you’re at it.
Got visitors from out of town? I’m taking them to: Graze Wine Bar. They’re located in Kelburn Village, a small little spot with a focus on local produce and low-waste cooking. Their menu changes regularly depending on what’s available so there are lots of creative small plates using New Zealand ingredients and a nice wine list. If you sit by the bar, you can literally see your food being made right in front of you.
An ideal date spot would be: Octo. They’ve got the perfect date night table tucked in the corner.
Make sure to order: Any of the skewers, they come in a set of two, perfect for you and your date. And whatever cocktail special is on that night.
Aro Valley and Kelburn’s best…
Breakfast: Völco. They’ve got a huge selection of baked goods and bread there. I love their pain au chocolat and the mushroom & pepper pastry.
Sandwich: The bacon and egg butty at Aro Café.
Noodles: Mamak mee goreng at Upesh Kitchen. It’s stir fried egg noodles with garlic chilli sambal – a bit sweet and spicy.
Comfort meal: Onion bhaji and butter chicken with garlic naan at Aro Valley Foodmarket. It looks like an ordinary dairy from the outside, but they’ve got a full menu at dinner time, and delivery available too.
Fish and chips: Te Aro Fish Supplies. Like, you can really taste the potato in their hand cut chips. They’re just so good?? Also their fish is yummy, the crumb is not too thick and their prices are very kind. They’ve been there for like 30 years I’m pretty sure, so they know what they’re doing.
And the best place to unwrap and eat them is: Right outside at their table or down the road at Aro Park. They’ve got picnic tables and it’s a perfect place for your dog to chill on the grass.
Bread: Arobake. The weggli toast is a great loaf and a perfect square shape for a nice toastie.
Baked treat: I’ve been eating the carrot cake at Arobake for nine years. I think I eat one a week. It’s divine. Also their chocolate chunk cookie.
What defines a great carrot cake? The cake is perfectly balanced with the spices, the cake itself is soft and moist and the cream cheese frosting is a bit tangy and not too sweet. If you eat carrot cake without the icing you’re a psycho.
For a serious sweet tooth, head to: Octo for their one and only dessert: s’mores! It’s a fun take on the classic camping treat. You get a giant marshmallow on a skewer, topped with biscuit crumbs and chocolate drizzle, toasted over charcoal. Remember, one set comes with two skewers.
If you’re after spice, make a beeline for: The beef or fish in hot and spicy chilli broth at Young Shing.
The dairy with the best lolly selection: Aro Valley Mini Mart. They’ve got everything!
For outstanding people watching, go to: Have I said Octo enough? Their window seat is perfect for people watching. Aro Street is always buzzing, cars going through, runners, dogs…you’re bound to see something juicy.
A restaurant I would love to relocate to Aro Valley or Kelburn: Uh oh, sorry, I’ve got three. Lemongrass Kitchen – they’re one of the last stalls standing at the Capital Market food court. I always get #15, which is their grilled lemongrass pork belly and spring rolls or the bánh mì. Mimosa Kitchen on Victoria St which is an easy, casual, simple spot that’s one of my lunch time spots for sushi. And then, it’s not a restaurant but, Cozy Cake Shop on Manners St coz that’s where my favourite pie is at!!
Why I love eating in Aro Valley and Kelburn: Wellington in general is a very community driven city and the food scene is a reflection of that. It’s full of independent spots with big personalities. A lot of them are owner-operated and you can see how they’ve poured their heart into creating something special. Those are the kinds of places I’m drawn to. Honest, welcoming, well-made food with a connection to the people that made it.
