Flaky pastry, rich gravy and slow-cooked meat that falls apart in your mouth. Preyanka Gothanayagi searches for the capital’s best pie.

They say you always want what you can’t have. As a child, this proved most true at the dinner table – my mother made the most incredible dahl, koli curry, korma and sambal every night of the week, but all I ever actually wanted was a pie. I couldn’t tell you where I got the idea from – an Enid Blyton book, maybe? – but I was obsessed with the concept of stewed meat wrapped in pastry. Warm, salty, oozing with gravy and cheese, the kind the Famous Five would eat on their way to solve an impossibly British mystery. I was convinced I’d join their ranks in no time if I could just get my hands on a good pie.

To her everlasting credit, my mother did try. One Sunday afternoon, she and my Appamma made me these delicate little homemade pies in a muffin tray, crimped edges and everything. I was so excited – my first ever pie! – and immediately bit in without waiting for them to cool down. I was expecting mincey, pastry goodness, but instead I got thick potato, chicken, peas and curry powder.

“Ma, this is… curry puff filling?” I asked.
“Yes,” she confirmed.
“And curry puff pastry?”
“Yes.”
“So… this is a curry puff?”

I was slightly disappointed, but they were actually delicious. In retrospect, my mother’s a genius. I ate the lot.

Now as a working adult, I have the freedom to seek out pies outside of our family muffin tray. So I decided to go on a quest to find the best ones in Wellington. I limited my search to the Wellington City Council limits, so it doesn’t include the remarkable Pepe’s Cafe in Porirua or anything in the Hutt. Armed with a bunch of recommendations from coworkers, friends of friends, pie aficionados and the fount of all truth that is Wellington Reddit, I compiled a list of nine contenders for the top spot. Here they are, ranked.

9. The Blue Belle Cafe, Island Bay

Pie: Chicken, cranberry, and brie

Price: $9

We visited the Blue Belle Cafe in Island Bay just as the sun rose on yet another workday – and we may as well have been nowhere near the city. There was a freshness to this place that reminded us the beach was mere minutes away. Burlap sacks covered a large feature wall, and the rest were punctuated with paintings for sale by local artists. Despite the winter morning chill, it all felt ever so homely.

There were more than a few interesting pie flavours available, but I went for a personal favourite combination: chicken, cranberry and brie. It was warmed for us while we waited for our coffee order, and it came out piping hot, the cheese in magma state. I burned my tongue on the first bite.

Overall it wasn’t unpleasant – the chicken pieces were sizeable, the pastry light and the flavours mellow and sweet – but there was a lot of white sauce. The pie disintegrated as I ate, so I had to switch from hands to knife and fork. Definitely not a car pie, but I would take it to the beach for a picnic on a cold winter day.

8. Super Deli, Featherston Street

Pie: Herby chicken with creamy sauce

Price: $12

Superdeli was a straight vibe. Firstly, the “u” and “p” were missing from the sign above their door on Featherston Street, meaning we were walking into “Serdeli”, which felt delightfully European. There were reasonably priced flowers for sale in baskets by the door, and the warmth was a welcome contrast to the cold and rain outside. Happy pop music blasted from behind the tiny counter. It was all a small taste of spring to come.

Immediately, we were drawn to the artfully presented goods in the glass cabinet. My coworker Marcus snagged himself a salted caramel brownie, and I purchased a herby chicken pie. It was a beautiful work of architecture, all high walls and vaulted pastry in a perfect, round package. A few sesame seeds on top completed the visual. I couldn’t wait to dig in.

And honestly, it didn’t disappoint. It took a bit of effort to break through the flakey, crunchy sides, but once I did, the herby, dill-garnished inner was well worth it. In the end, I flipped it upside down to use the top as a bowl, eating the filling with relish (metaphorical and literal – it came with a delicious tomato chutney on the side).

7. ​​New World Willis Street

Pie: Mince and cheese

Price: $5.49

I was sceptical about adding New World to the original list, but my friend Em swore their pies were the go. So I went to my local on Willis Street during a lunch break to pick up their much-loved mince and cheese.

Going to the supermarket at 12.30pm on a weekday was actually kind of pleasant. It was full of other 9-5ers grabbing a quick something before heading back to their desks, and there was a real convivial vibe going on. Like an informal mixer, only we had to buy the drinks and nibbles.

The fact that New World is so close to my office, as well as the overall positive purchasing experience, probably made the pie taste better. It was nothing fancy, just classic flavours: a good amount of salty mince and gravy, soft, flaky pastry, and cheese mixed throughout – but it was better than I expected from a supermarket bakery. A trusty lunchtime option. The perfect unfussy road trip pie, or the ultimate hangover cure. Well done New World.

6. Shelly Bay Baker, Leeds Street

Pie: Mince and cheese

Price: $12

Nestled in the heart of the city is Shelly Bay Baker, which took over the Leeds Street Bakery premises in 2023. Their real headline act is their sourdough bread, but they also have a creative coffee and tea menu, as well as exposed lightbulbs that feel highly artisanal.

Getting a pie from Shelly Bay Baker turned into a bit of a mission. I tried in the morning before work, but the pies weren’t ready to go. I then came back on the weekend around lunchtime, and the pies were all gone, except for a few last mince and cheeses. So that’s what I got.

Lucky for me, it was a good option. It tasted homemade in the best way – the first beef pie we tried that had small pieces of celery and maybe carrot in the rich gravy. The pastry wasn’t standout, but it was serviceable. Definitely a pie to savour and appreciate.

5. Salut, Victoria Street

Pie: Gochujang pork belly

Price: $8

So many friends had raved to me about this mythical pie joint all the way out in Ōtaki that I’d been convinced I’d have to make the trip out – but luckily, the Wellington-famous Salut moved to Victoria Street just as my pie run was coming to an end.

I visited them on their first day in their new place. To my surprise, despite having cooked around 600 pies for their grand opening, they were nearly sold out. All that was left were mince and cheeses, or a gochujang pork belly that I’d have to heat myself in an oven. I couldn’t resist trying something new – after all, out-there flavours is what Salut is known for.

This pie tasted like something hobbits would eat, if the Lord of the Rings was set in Asia. It was classic, tasty pastry encasing bright Korean flavours, muted enough that it wasn’t out of place as a pie filling. The meat was well cooked, and unlike a traditional English pork pie, it wasn’t overly gelatinous.

I’m looking forward to more from Salut.

4. Dough Bakery, Lambton Quay

Pie: Mushroom and truffle

Price: $10

Dough Bakery’s Lambton Quay branch is one of those places you can walk past a hundred times and never think to visit. It feels quite wooden and minimalist, like a Finnish sauna, and you’d be forgiven for not even knowing it exists. But lucky for CBD office workers, it does.

The pie I chose was the one and only vegetarian pie of this venture – a mushroom and truffle version, with a lovely flaky pastry. Not that I’m against vegetarian pies, it’s just that I don’t tend to go for broccoli when I can have bacon and egg. But this pie might be the exception.

Creamy, rich, indulgent, flavourful – the mushroom was a fantastic substitute for steak, and so much lighter. There was a light pepper element to the sauce, and the right amount of truffle coming through. To my surprise, my fellow carnivores (read: coworkers) loved it as well. None of us were disappointed. It forced us to slow down and contemplate the veggie life, and I can think of no higher compliment for a pie than that.

3. Patrisha’s Original Pie Shop, Island Bay

Pie: Steak and cheese

Price: $5 small, $7 large

Patrisha’s Pies is a hole-in-the-wall takeaway spot quite close to the south coast. A formation of seagulls cawed overhead in the early sunlight, and you could practically smell the ocean from the front door. Inside, there were vintage-esque prints of a woman in a swimsuit at Island Bay. This place is local and very proud of it.

There was a range of specialty pies on offer, each more delicious sounding than the last, but the most popular pie was the steak and cheese. As if to underscore the point, the group of tradies who came in after us ordered just that – it would have been unthinkable to go with anything else.

There wasn’t much space inside the bakery, so I ordered a small (they come in different sizes, hallelujah!) and ate it in the front seat of my car. As piefiends know, it’s risky business to eat an untested pie in your vehicle, but this one performed beautifully. Thick, well-cooked chunks of beef, a good amount of cheese to cut through the richness, soft melt-in-your-mouth pastry – I had nothing to say. I just wanted to eat.

2. Arobake, Aro Street

Pie: Salmon and brie

Price: $6.90

I’ve always loved Arobake. It looks like the kind of place modern fairytale characters would go to for baked goods. When I lived nearby, I’d drop in for a takeaway coffee while walking to the city, and be charmed by the ladybirds in their branding. Also their cakes, which cater to a broad variety of dietary requirements and are also delicious.

But I’d never thought to look at their pies before. It took me a moment to spot them in a warmer by the back wall – and then another moment to get my head around the flavours on offer.

“Salmon and brie is definitely one of our most popular pies,” the person behind the counter told me (tattoos, shaved head, effortlessly cool). I was hesitant about the prospect of hot fish and cheese at 7.30 in the morning, but the people had spoken. That’s the pie I got.

Friends, Wellingtonians, I can’t tell you how good this pie is. The salmon is lush, comforting and flavourful, and brie is a surprisingly good accompaniment. The pastry held together well, and when my coworkers and I reheated another one for lunch, we didn’t stink out the office.

Get yourself this pie. You can thank me later.

1. Jo’s Pies, Brooklyn

Pie: The Homeboy (steak, cheese and hash brown)

Price: $8

High up in the hills of Brooklyn lives Jo’s Pies, a legendary bastion of Wellington pastry. The decor is eclectic, with chequerboard tables, corrugated iron, bright green walls rarely seen outside a Malaysian restaurant, and the iconic sheriff’s star logo above the window outside. Not to mention the race flag fluttering limply in the breeze.

But inside, you will find the certifiable best pie in Wellington. It’s called the Homeboy, and it looks like something out of a nursery rhyme. I kept expecting four and twenty blackbirds to make a break for it.

One bite sent me into a thoughtful reverie for several minutes. I entered an almost meditative-like state, staring into the middle distance while contemplating how I’d gone so long without tasting something like this. I sat there chewing thoughtfully, occasionally pausing to say something like, “Oh my goodness,” and “I am so grateful.”

The meat was generous and cooked perfectly, with a rich, salty, decadent gravy that was almost, almost too much. The cheese swirled amongst, creating levels of flavour. It was so structurally intact – the most ka pai of all car pies – that I could hold it vertically and without any leakage. And the hash brown – oh, the hash brown. It added a slight crunch, a different texture that was more than welcome.

“Holy fucking shit,” said Em the second she tried it. That’s putting it mildly.