Ensemble magazine
Ensemble magazine

MediaAugust 16, 2020

Ensemble is out to subvert fashion and lifestyle media as we know it

Ensemble magazine
Ensemble magazine

Driven by a lack of meaningful diversity and an advertising industry in disarray, Rebecca Wadey and Zoe Walker Ahwa have launched Ensemble, a new online fashion, beauty and lifestyle website aimed at upending the traditional high-gloss magazine model.

It wasn’t our intention to launch during a level three lockdown in Tāmaki Makaurau. Working in an industry that’s notoriously risk-averse, we knew what we were planning was wild. But not that wild.

We’d been working on Ensemble since lockdown number one. Zoe had lost her job as editor-in-chief of Fashion Quarterly and Simply You magazines, and I had taken six months off the hamster wheel to live in the Coromandel. It became increasingly obvious to both of us that if we ever wanted to work again (or at least do meaningful work) we’d need to make it happen for ourselves.

For a while, I vaguely toyed with buying Fashion Quarterly, but Zoe wasn’t interested in resurrecting that dinosaur. And it was obvious that even if we got it for a song, the costs involved in running it would be prohibitive. The more we examined the model of traditional fashion and lifestyle media and its years’ long reliance on brand advertising, the more turned off by it we became. It was exciting to look at everything we knew, dismantle it and put it back together on our own terms.

One example: the beauty editorial. What an antiquated notion! One homogenised voice (usually young and white) telling everyone how products work. We see this as a throwback to the golden years of publishing where the power suits that sat upstairs dictated “editorial” to suit the needs of their top advertisers. The whole model is so disrespectful to the reader no wonder they’re turning away in droves. Beauty influencers have grown as a response, but they’re not the answer that satisfies us. 

Another example: the lack of diverse faces, bodies and voices. Fashion has long been a club of the white elite. There are few Māori and Pasifika journalists, stylists and photographers working within the industry and for good reason – ignored for so long, why would you bother fighting for it? Around the world, traditional roles have been filled by children of privilege, working for very little pay and spending what they do earn on “perks of the job” such as discounted designer clothing.

A model walks the runway during a Kate Sylvester show at NZ Fashion Week 2019 (Photo: Stefan Gosatti/Getty Images)

We remained convinced there was an audience for intelligent, female-led conversations that were truly inclusive. We wanted to be opinionated, stick up for things we believed in and create space for everyone in an industry that had always been very exclusionary. 

But we knew it was a challenging time to embark on such a mission. With no outside investment and the advertising industry in disarray, we needed to think differently. The model was broken, so we decided to go our own way.

We didn’t want to crowdfund as it felt important to us to be commercially viable. We know what we have is of value, and that creativity, evocative visual storytelling and good journalism comes at a price. The question became how we could monetise that until the industry course-corrected. 

Unlike other successful membership models like that of our friends at The Spinoff, we didn’t have time to earn our stripes. Covid meant budgets were slashed and few brands were willing to take a with a new venture, so our membership programme needed to work immediately; there wasn’t time to rely purely on respect earned from journalistic integrity.

We reached out to a few key fashion designers we could speak frankly with and floated a membership program by them. The response was overwhelmingly positive. They got it instantly.

And from there Ensemble was born.

From a fashion shoot on Ensemble / Styling: Chloe Hill, model: Tarsha Orsman (Photo: Chloe Hill)

Thirteen of the country’s leading fashion brands have pledged support via a roster of discounted shopping nights, VIP access and other fun perks. If you’re a keen shopper and a supporter of shopping local, you’ll make your investment back and then some.

We also have a calendar of events and parties of our own to bring to the table, lockdown restrictions dependent. Think movie screenings, in-conversations, tree plantings, book clubs and more (maybe a Zoom craft club? We’re open to ideas).

Each of our 13 designers has promised at least one discount shopping night, with a minimum discount of 10% across a 12 month period, as well as an experiential brand VIP event.  

We are very focused on this program being of value to our members. We don’t expect charity, although we’ll take it if you’re willing! There’s an option to make a donation without committing to full membership, all of which will go towards supporting fashion and lifestyle media with integrity and paying the creatives and diverse voices we’ll be working with, from writers and photographers to models and stylists.

But it’s also important that Ensemble is free to all. We believe the stories we tell are for everyone and fashion has been too exclusionary for too long.

Keep going!
Image: Tina Tiller
Image: Tina Tiller

PoliticsAugust 15, 2020

Merv endings: A deep dive into the world of phony political talkback calls

Image: Tina Tiller
Image: Tina Tiller

Newshub’s bombshell story about a Newstalk ZB caller named Merv rocked New Zealand’s political landscape. Roger Bridge, who stands accused of also being Merv, yesterday resigned from the National Party board. But he is far from the first political figure to don a fake name and ring a talkback station.

The hour before midnight on Newstalk ZB can be strange and listless, filled with lonely people, drunk people, and lonely, drunk people. On August 3, it became the unlikely forum for one of New Zealand’s strangest attempted political hit jobs, when late-night host Marcus Lush took a call from a man identifying himself as “Merv” from “Manuwera” (sic). For 10 excruciating minutes, Merv expressed confusion over the fact that Nuwanthie Samarakone, whom he called “that girl Nuwi”, was applying to be National’s Auckland Central candidate while still standing for election in Manurewa. No matter how many times Lush explained the situation, Merv would only reaffirm his confusion.

Anyone listening to the call would have been surprised to learn from Newshub that Merv was not one of New Zealand’s thickest men, but a National Party grandee posing as one of New Zealand’s dumbest men. According to political editor Tova O’Brien, Merv was thought in fact to be party board member Roger Bridge putting on a silly voice and mispronouncing te reo Māori. Yesterday he resigned from the board.

The stunt was a throwback in several ways. For one, it was part of a campaign of 1950s-style sexism surrounding Samarakone’s candidacy. But it also harkened to a different age of dirty politics. Back before the internet, political parties had fewer forums for their most scurrilous urges. Instead of laundering their attack lines through horrible toilet blogs, they had to direct their underhanded political efforts toward the task of dominating the airwaves on talkback.

Sir Bob Harvey remembers the teams of people who used to call up Radio Pacific during his days working as an ad man for the Labour Party in the 1970s. Around 20 or 30 party loyalists were charged with donning fake identities and ringing talkback stations to raise issues that painted Labour in a good light, he says. “We had a whole team of people that were based on the [North] Shore that had time. It was like a golden age where people had time and a phone. They would ring talkback into the night.” Harvey admits to making a few of the calls himself. He won’t give details on the topics he raised, but asserts that he was “quite good at it”.

Former Labour Party staffer Phil Quin also admits making several pseudonymous calls to talkback stations while he was serving on the party’s research unit in the early 90s. His efforts included one disastrous encounter where he posed as a listener with a question for then-leader Mike Moore.

There were other, more successful, calls as well. “I did it a few times,” Quin says. “Used to bullshit that I’d tried and failed because I really hated it. Terrible butterflies.”

Quin didn’t act alone. Labour had units of party faithful charged with making talkback calls under false pretences in the 90s, he says. “It was a fierce battleground and phone banks for volunteers were commonplace. Any such shenanigans probably take place online these days.”

Perhaps the most famous phony political call came from former National MP-turned-Far-North-mayor John Carter. He rang then-Radio Pacific host John Banks in 1995 pretending to be a “work-shy Māori” named Hone. Carter was sacked as the party’s whip following the incident. His act was racist and indefensible, but was it really that out-of-the-ordinary? Carter refuses to talk about the matter to The Spinoff, even if it means losing a chance at a measure of redemption. “I’ve made it very clear as mayor that I’m apolitical and I don’t want to get involved,” he says, in reference to something that happened roughly 25 years ago.

The man he talked to on air is less reticent. In a shock twist, John Banks says it was actually him who orchestrated the “Hone” call. It wasn’t the only time Carter had rung into a show posing as someone else, he says. “John Carter would mimic a lot of people. He was very good at it.”

Banks says Carter was only found out because a reporter at the Northern Advocate complimented the “Hone” call during a casual conversation. “Carter couldn’t help himself. He had to cop to it. The aftermath to that was that Carter was standing outside Bolger’s office at quarter to nine the following morning shaking like a bloody leaf.”

There may be some artistic licence in that assertion, as then prime minister Jim Bolger was in Washington at the time Carter’s call was made. Nevertheless, Banks says he never encountered any formal scheme aimed at gaming the talkback system during his time as a National minister in the 90s. That doesn’t mean party faithful weren’t asked to deliver their views on air, he says. “We would encourage people – hapless people – to ring talkback all night, every night. But we would never encourage people to call themselves Merv or anything else. The people on the left are expert at it. The National Party wasn’t smart enough to do that.”

John Banks (Photo: Hannah Peters/Getty Images)

That doesn’t mesh with what Quin remembers. He insists it wasn’t just Labour putting fake talkback fans up on the airwaves, and that National and “even the Alliance” were telling their supporters to make calls under false pretences. 

Was National really guilty as well? At least one political commentator, who asked to remain anonymous, does admit to participating in light media manipulation in support of a right-wing party roughly 20 years ago – though it didn’t involve talkback radio. The commentator was asked to write bullet points, and sometimes whole letters, which party supporters would send to newspapers to be published as letters to the editor. “Everyone did this and probably still does,” the commentator says. 

These sorts of schemes may seem quaint by today’s standards, where politicians and their supporters have several social media conduits through which to release their unfiltered messages. But is there still power in talkback deception, even now?

The same night Merv’s true identity was revealed on Newshub at 6, National held the selection meeting for its Auckland Central candidate. The two finalists were Samarakone and fellow political newcomer Emma Mellow. Samarakone lost the vote, and Mellow was announced as Nikki Kaye’s replacement. Merv may be a figure of derision. His call may have been a senseless, mind-numbing train wreck. But even at 11.35pm, his message seems to have got through to the right people.