Police messaging around alcohol and sexual assault is outdated, according to critics. (Getty Images)
Police messaging around alcohol and sexual assault is outdated, according to critics. (Getty Images)

PartnersJuly 5, 2019

The AI sommelier making you the wine expert

Police messaging around alcohol and sexual assault is outdated, according to critics. (Getty Images)
Police messaging around alcohol and sexual assault is outdated, according to critics. (Getty Images)

Standing in front of a wall of wine bottles trying to find something that you’ll like can feel futile. One online wine retailer is using artificial intelligence to help find what you’re looking for. 

It can take a lifetime to truly become an expert on wine. There are subtleties and hints in each bottle that don’t present themselves to a novice palate. A whole culture surrounds wine, which can appear impenetrable. It can be intimidating trying to break into that. 

That’s a shame because the point of wine is pleasure. Nobody really drinks it for their health. You drink it to enjoy the taste of it or to enhance a certain meal or mood. But how do you take that desire to drink good wine – wine that you’ll love – and convert that desire into actually finding what you’re looking for?  

For Jeff Poole, that’s a question that’s occupied him for more than 40 years. He’s been sampling wines with an exacting and demanding palate, carefully sorting which wines will and won’t make the grade throughout his time as the proprietor of the Fine Wine Delivery Company. And while he rejects plenty of wines from ever making it onto his shelves, he also rejects the idea that people should be snobs about it. 

It’s about getting the right wine for the right moment, says Poole, who explains this by drawing an analogy to trying the world’s best chardonnay, and sending out a missive to customers that they should buy it. “If you like a nice big buttery chardonnay – and this is a lean Chablis style that must be consumed with food –and you try it and just don’t like it at all, that’s because of the style. And style is just as important as quality. Otherwise, it’s not your world’s best chardonnay.” 

A lot of work goes into making sure the wines he sells meets the most important standard of all – taste. But once an expert has done quality control, the best judge of whether a wine is good is the person drinking it. “New Zealanders have grown enormously in their understanding of wine, and their appreciation of it,” he observes, based on his 22 years with Fine Wine Delivery. 

This is what’s driving the company’s newest technological developments, which uses artificial intelligence to help customers work out what they actually want. The company partnered with Spacetime, an AI company, to pioneer the use of a ‘Smart Search’ system for recommending wine. 

Underpinning the AI system are two developments that make it so useful for this application. It’s based on an IBM-designed system called Watson: a ‘natural language discovery system’ that was famously developed and put to the test in the game-show Jeopardy, beating two champion human players in the process despite the game requiring quite subtle understandings of information hierarchies. But that was just the proof of concept for Watson – the actual intended uses for it were far greater. 

The first development is that Watson understands how people talk – that’s the “natural language” part – and the results reflect that accordingly. Users don’t need to have any particular technical knowledge about wine to get a good result out of it. “Watson has basically ingested everything about the wines, including the tasting notes, which is really important,” says Dr Peter Catt from Spacetime.

“We ingest everything, and then Watson does something quite smart called enrichment. It understands entities – I don’t mean that in a sentient sense, but it understands mathematically that, for example, Barossa is a geographical term. So the enrichment takes place, and then it indexes everything so we can do a quick natural search. I can type in that I’m after a big chocolatey Barossa Shiraz for $50, and I’ll get a result. No other search engine as far as I’m aware can do that,” says Catt. They’ve even managed to teach it Kiwi colloquialisms, and Watson has learned what a ‘cab sav’ is. 

The second development is around complexity and categorisation. Each individual wine can fit into many different boxes, over and above whether it’s a Shiraz, a Pinot Noir, or a Chardonnay. A bottle might be sweeter, drier, fuller-bodied, or fruitier among just a few of wine’s infinite adjectives. The more of those a customer provides the system – in effect the more complicated the information they input into the AI system – the closer it will get to recommending the perfect drop for them in that moment. 

“It understands complexity, which is good. Most search engines are absolutely dumb. They’re not particularly useful, and you’ll get a lot of erroneous results. And if you put in more, rather than getting a finer result, you’ll probably get less accurate results,” says Catt. 

It wouldn’t have worked without an enormous base of knowledge to underpin it all. Fine Wine Delivery Company has – between their three main in-house experts – more than 50 years experience. They categorise every wine they drink on a matrix based on its key elements, giving thousands of different permutations that reflect the uniqueness of every bottle. That vast trove of knowledge has now been transferred into the Smart Search system.

Jeff and Virginia Poole, founders of Fine Wine Delivery Co, with son Richard and daughter Tracey, who have handed their knowledge over to a computer (Photo: Supplied)

As for what AI can bring to that, the goal is simple and relies on that expertise being able to be delivered. The three resident tasters – Poole, his daughter Tracey Hawes and son Richard Poole  – have been turned into virtual assistants on the website. Customers can chat with them, and the responses will be based on what they would say if someone was talking to them face to face. “I’d like Jeff to be having 600 different conversations with 600 different people at the same time,” jokes Poole. 

It’s arguably the next logical step beyond online shopping in that it takes quite static information about products, and introduces new flexibility to the customer experience around sorting through them. Fine Wine Delivery Company has embraced the internet’s role as a sales platform – now AI takes that further. 

“I know there are people saying AI is just hype, but it’s absolutely not,” says Catt.  

So if the enjoyment of wine is situational, circumstantial and dependent on personal taste, what does Poole like to drink? If he’s just sitting down on a Saturday night, it’s a simple choice.

“I just love Champagne, it’s the ultimate feel-good beverage. I love what the Champenoise say, which is: don’t wait for an occasion to celebrate, let Champagne be the occasion. Every time I raise a glass of Champagne, everything about the day that might have been stressful just drains away.”

This content was created in paid partnership with the Fine Wine Delivery Company. Learn more about our partnerships here

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Guy Ngan: Habitation, Install image 2019. Photo: John Lake. Courtesy of The Dowse Art Museum
Guy Ngan: Habitation, Install image 2019. Photo: John Lake. Courtesy of The Dowse Art Museum

PartnersJuly 3, 2019

His work hangs in the Beehive, but galleries ignored Guy Ngan. Until now.

Guy Ngan: Habitation, Install image 2019. Photo: John Lake. Courtesy of The Dowse Art Museum
Guy Ngan: Habitation, Install image 2019. Photo: John Lake. Courtesy of The Dowse Art Museum

Anna Knox spoke to the curator of a new exhibition of Guy Ngan’s work at the gallery in the heart of his home. 

Artist Guy Ngan and the art establishment never seemed to care much for each other. But a new exhibition raises questions about that mutual disregard.

Ngan lived in Stokes Valley, Upper Hutt, for more than 60 years where he built his family home – itself a work of art – with his wife Jean. He contributed over 40 works of public art to Aotearoa, including Forest in the Sun, which was commissioned for the Beehive’s opening, sold a prolific number of works to private New Zealanders, and was the director of the New Zealand Academy of Fine Arts for a decade.

Yet he was reticent toward galleries, and didn’t set foot in the Dowse, the Hutt City’s gallery, for 20 years. Ngan died in 2017 both beloved and ignored. Now, a retrospective exhibition at the Dowse showcases a broad body of his work and explores his identity and place in New Zealand art.

There’s a sense of apology from the art world to Ngan for overlooking him. But would the artist have been concerned about that? I spoke to the exhibition’s curator, Sian van Dyk, about sculptures in sheds, curating Guy’s work, and the changing way we value art.

Guy Ngan: Habitation, Install image 2019. Photo: John Lake. Courtesy of The Dowse Art Museum

When did you first encounter Guy Ngan’s work?

In 2006 I was studying in Palmerston North where it was discovered that one of Guy’s public sculptures had made its way — as the suburban myth goes — into a farmer’s shed. The Sculpture Trust saved it and put it up on the library wall where it still is today. Then I came to Wellington to see a City Gallery show and Guy’s work was there too, so I thought he was really well known. 

And how did this show come about? 

Our previous senior curator, Emma Bugden, used a group show in 2014 to re-engage with Guy because we were under the impression he was not very happy with the Dowse – he hadn’t set foot in the Dowse for 20 years. She went to visit him and his wife, Jean, in their home. And then he came and visited here. They started working on a show together, but he was just becoming too unwell and asked to pull out, and we left it at that. Then after he passed away in 2017 his daughter Liz came back to us and asked if we’d still like to do the exhibition, with her full support.

Guy didn’t set foot in the Dowse for 20 years? Do you know why?

Not really. But his relationship with the idea of public galleries was tenuous because he was very interested in making public works (outside of gallery spaces), and he wanted to really connect with people. 

Habitation is the name of the exhibition. It’s also the name of the series of sculptures in the centre of the space. Is that Guy’s title?

Yes. He started making these works, and then with time, started to give them the name “Habitation”. If you look at the object list you’ll see they’re just numbered. He numbered everything, which reflected how pragmatic he was.

There are over 200 Habitation sculptures! He was prolific. How did you choose which pieces to showcase? As a curator, how do you make decisions about what matters?

There are always thousands of stories you could tell. When I curate a show like this I think – what is the Dowse story? What reflects our characteristics as an institution, our whakapapa, our history, and what story can we tell that no-one else can? I felt a very strong connection to the Habitation works. His daughter Liz had also talked a lot about their house as an organism. So the house, and these sculptures were a beginning point. For me, an exhibition is a second in the universe, it’s there for such a short time and it’s about providing a starting point for people to want to know more. 

L: Homage to Guy Ngan, 2017. Digital scan of Kodak Tri-X film. Courtesy of the artist (photo: Annie Lee). R: Craft New Zealand – Guy Ngan, c1980. Digital scan of black-and-white film. Collection of Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa. Gift of Mr Raymond Wai-Man Lau, 2001 (photo: Brian Brake).

The first thing the Habitation sculptures evoked for me was a sense of security and containment, of home. They had an immediate calming effect on my mind.

It’s great that you got that sense of connection with home because everything in this room is very much tied up with his home that he built. I think they’re very well-resolved works. There are some lovely descriptions people have used with regards to his home – ‘ordered chaos’ – there was so much stuff in there, but it still had that sense of calmness.

Annie Lee’s photos of Guy’s house, which are part of the exhibition, are such a contrast to the relatively sparse arrangement of works. They’re jam-packed with objects, books, plants. It’s such a biographical insight. 

Yes, two of the major themes in the show are place, belonging and identity, and the connection between the man-made and the organic. The photos of the home are in the centre of the exhibition space to show where those ideas started happening.

In her essay which also features in the book that accompanies this exhibition, Emma Ng writes about “filtering Ngan’s work through the tastes of curators (likely Pākehā), in order to shape it into an appealing oeuvre for dominant art-world tastes.” She says that “Ngan would likely have had no interest in subjecting his work to such a process.” As his curator, what impact do you think your identity and your thoughts on identity have on your curation? 

I identify as Pākehā, but I’m actually South African, so I live with a huge amount of white guilt. And I believe really strongly in trying to lift up alternative voices, and that’s why we invited Emma to write in the book. I spoke with a lot to people who cared for him and knew him really well. I spoke to Yan Wang, a professor of Chinese Studies at Victoria University, and we did things like talk about Guy’s seal and incorporated that into the title of the show. I really wanted to draw from his Chinese heritage and show how that influenced his style of modernism. 

I imagine it’s something to be constantly negotiating. Our art galleries are historically pretty Western-centred institutions.

Yes, even the way he sort of slipped out of mainstream art histories, which were very Pākehā centred, and some of the criticism he received from some of his exhibitions showed how people had no interest in understanding his background. Even by having this show, and talking about his background, we are wanting to take a better step. And Liz Ngan, his daughter, is the silent curator in this show. She let me take the lead and was very generous in sharing information, but she read through everything and oversaw it.

Guy Ngan: Habitation, Install image 2019. Photo: John Lake. Courtesy of The Dowse Art Museum

In Ng’s essay, there’s also the argument that Ngan has been overlooked, partly because of his Chinese heritage. She says that: “Despite his prolific output, Ngan received scant attention from major public galleries and little critical writing engaged with his work,’ and that ‘as a result, his practice has not been brought into Aotearoa’s art historical fold for proper consideration’.

I whole-heartedly agree. And that’s another reason why we wanted to have a show. When I wrote to public galleries to ask who had his work in their collections, almost nobody did. So I had to piece together his oeuvre by looking at auction records, which I’ve never done before.

But his public works are well-known?

Yes, the public works are actually part of the overlooking. Makers of art history have historically had a tendency to be very focused on galleries and this idea of taste-makers. And Guy was reticent to show in art galleries. And at the same time, these public works are commercial. That combination of drawing on his heritage, and being an artist that was very focused on public art saw him being excluded.

Do you think Guy was concerned about this? Did he ever talk about this exclusion himself?

No. Absolutely not concerned. He did what he did, and followed his own path and didn’t care about trends, and drew from what was true for him and really believed in everyday people connecting with art. 

Has the way his work is valued changed over time?

It’s this strange dual world. He’s been connecting with New Zealanders for 70 years. I would say thousands of pieces are in private collections. There’s a real value in him having stayed true to himself and bringing his own cultural inflection to what he made and everyday New Zealanders connecting with that. And I think the way that art institutions are changing, a lot of people are very aware that they’re Pākehā led, and we want to bring as much cultural diversity into our spaces as we can, though at the same time you don’t want to look like you’re speaking for other people.

If Guy could see this exhibition, and people appreciating his work, what would he make of it do you think?

I think if he could connect with people, he would be happy. I hope he would feel really pleased that we’ve brought in his home and talked about how important it was to the rest of his work, and the interconnection of everything, his history, the environment.

Why do you think it’s important for people to come to the exhibition?

He was a New Zealander, and a person who made work about being here, and everybody can learn something from that.

This content was created in paid partnership with The Dowse Art Museum. Learn more about our partnerships here