The tūpuna and kārapuna laid on te atamira (the stage) at the repatriation ceremony at Te Papa earlier this month. (Photo: Te Papa)
The tūpuna and kārapuna laid on te atamira (the stage) at the repatriation ceremony at Te Papa earlier this month. (Photo: Te Papa)

ĀteaOctober 19, 2022

Our stolen ancestors are finally returned from Vienna to Aotearoa to rest in peace

The tūpuna and kārapuna laid on te atamira (the stage) at the repatriation ceremony at Te Papa earlier this month. (Photo: Te Papa)
The tūpuna and kārapuna laid on te atamira (the stage) at the repatriation ceremony at Te Papa earlier this month. (Photo: Te Papa)

This month marked a deeply emotional win in the decades-long battle by Māori to reclaim their stolen ancestors, with the return of 64 ancestral remains of Māori and Moriori from a museum in Austria. Now, with the repatriation ceremony at Te Papa complete, the delicate process of returning the ancestors to iwi begins. 

Dislocated for centuries, locked behind glass or packed away in dusty shelves on the other side of the world, they’re finally home.

Almost two centuries after being violently disturbed and stolen from their final resting place, 64 ancestors have been received by their descendants. It’s a sensitive and delicate process that stirs up a lot of mamae for the iwi and hapū whose ancestors were robbed of peace. 


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In the early 1800s, Austrian taxidermist and grave-robber Andreas Reischek stole kōiwi and kōimi (Māori and Moriori ancestral remains, respectively) from all over over Aotearoa: from Rēkohu/Wharekauri (Chatham Islands), Whanganui, Ōtautahi, Lyttleton, Tāmaki Makaurau, and Whangaroa and Taiharuru in Te Tai Tokerau. It’s all recorded in his extensive diary records, published in local New Zealand newspapers in the 1950s.

In one entry, writing about burial sites in Kawhia, he notes “the tapu on such graves is indissoluble, and any one who disregards it is killed”. It appears that Reischek knew the severity of the transgressions he was committing, and did it anyway.

Kiwa Hammond (Tā Imi Moriori, Ngāti Kahungunu o te Wairoa, Ngāti Ruapani, Rongowhaakata) was one of those from Tā Imi Morioi for the repatriation ceremony at Te Papa at the beginning of this month.

Iwi delegation arrive on to Rongomaraeroa, carrying the tūpuna and karāpuna through the Waha Roa and Ranginui doors at Te Papa’s repatriation pōwhiri. (Photo: Te Papa)

“The treachery is what really resounds, the treachery of one man and how he systematically went around the country for 12 years and befriended rangatira, befriended Māori and he was stealing from under their noses and they were unwitting parties to his thievery and his ego-mania.”

Another layer of mamae is that the whakapapa of some of these ancestors was never properly recorded. Hammond says at least two of the tūpuna returned from Austria were in a box simply labeled “Māori: Wharekauri’”. Whether these ancestors were Moriori Ngāti Tama and Ngāti Mutunga will never been known. 

 It’s a painful and confronting reality, but Hammond says his priority is ensuring the people are guided home safely under tikane, “to ensure that the wairu of those karāpuna are able to rest”.

After the repatriation which was held on October 2nd begins the delicate process of returning the tūpuna and karāpuna to iwi. (Photo: Te Papa)

The hope now for Hammond is that they can lay their ancestors to rest on Rēkohu but that is still an on-going, delicate discussion. 

Te Papa acting head of repatriation Te Arikirangi Mamaku-Ironside (Ngāti Awa, Tūhoe, Ngāti Makino, Ngāpuhi, Te Arawa) says these decisions are left up to iwi and hapū. “He waka mātou mo ngā tūpuna ki a hoki atu ki te wā kāinga — our waka goes as far as the marae… so it’s entirely up to them.”

These local level negotiations can be particularly difficult where other iwi took part in the trading. “It’s a very, very confronting conversation but the whole kaupapa is reconciliation of the past,” says Mamaku-Ironside. 

Backed with a government mandate to negotiate the return of kōiwi, Karanga Aotearoa is a team of just three set up in 2003 to repatriate the extensive number of kōiwi and toi moko (preserved heads) held in collections overseas.

Amber Aranui (Ngāti Kahungunu, Ngāti Tūwharetoa), the lead curator taonga Māori at Te Papa, worked for 11 years as lead researcher for Karanga Aotearoa.

“It’s not easy, it can take years sometimes to be able to find out the information you need to ensure those tūpuna go home to their people,” she says.

Repatriation a hard-won battle

It was only in the last seven to eight years that the Natural History Museum in Vienna, Austria became open to discussions about repatriating kōiwi stolen by Reischek.

Māori first called on the government to request repatriation in 1945. However, it was the late Māori Queen, Te Arikinui Dame Te Atairangikaahu, who led the first delegation to Austria in 1985 to retrieve the toi moko of the Tainui rangatira Tūpahau. A condition of the repatriation was that the other toi moko must stay.

The next repatriation wasn’t until 2015 from Weltmuseum in Vienna. Then in 2017, Mamaku-Ironside says two Tainui kaumātua went and spoke to the Natural History Museum’s new head of collections, who called for Reischek’s diaries to be re-examined and retranslated. Finally, in 2020, it was agreed the 64 ancestors would be repatriated.

Tūpuna and karāpuna are covered with kākahu. (Photo: Te Papa)

Colonial nations are under increasing pressure to rectify the wrongs they committed against indigenous nations, and institutions, like museums, as holders of stolen indigenous people and artifacts, are also having to confront their colonial past.

Just this week, the Nigerian culture minister urged the British Museum to return the Benin bronzes they hold in their collection, which were looted in 1897.

Aranui says, there are still those institutions, like the British Museum, that want to hold on to kōiwi for scientific and global education purposes. “Museums like that are of the view that it is their duty to retain taonga and in some cases, tūpuna, whether it be Egyptian mummies, or our own tūpuna, because it’s their obligation to help teach the world the history of man.

“For the most part things are changing, attitudes are changing, but there’s still the view that museums are going to be empty spaces, it’s going to open the floodgates and everyone is going to be lining up to get all their taonga and tūpuna back – which in a perfect world would be great – but in reality, it’s just not how it is,” Aranui says.

Karanga Aotearoa are mandated only to negotiate the return of kōiwi and kōimi; and they are very careful not to even broach the conversation about the return of taonga.

Hona Edwards (Te Uri Roroi, Te Mahurehure Ki Whatitiri, Te Parawhau) pays his respects. (Photo: Te Papa)

“If we approach them to say we’re here for taonga as well, then they get a little bit nervous… it’s dangerous territory for them, red flags start ringing,” Mamaku-Ironside says. “They see it as an existential risk to their institutions and their collections, which is kind of understandable but isn’t an excuse that sticks these days.”

While the repatriation from Austria, the biggest from the country to date, is a milestone for Karanga Aotearoa, there is still much work to do.

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There are another 400-500 kōiwi out there they’re trying to bring home – and those are just the ones they know of. Many more are believed to be in private collections they don’t even know about.

For now Māori will continue to stand alongside other indigenous nations – First Nations in the US and Canada; Aborigines in Australia; Sami of Canada; Inu in Japan and the nations of Africa – in calling for their people to come home.


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Keep going!
Most of us will know Teeks for his intensely heartbreaking music – but he also makes really good pasta. (Image: Tina Tiller)
Most of us will know Teeks for his intensely heartbreaking music – but he also makes really good pasta. (Image: Tina Tiller)

KaiOctober 17, 2022

Teeks finds poetic freedom in the kitchen

Most of us will know Teeks for his intensely heartbreaking music – but he also makes really good pasta. (Image: Tina Tiller)
Most of us will know Teeks for his intensely heartbreaking music – but he also makes really good pasta. (Image: Tina Tiller)

Ahead of his first-ever arena performance in Auckland next month, Teeks talks to Charlotte Muru-Lanning about food on the marae, flat cooking rosters and the best music to cook pasta to.

Known for his soulful ballads and blistering R&B, Māori singer-songwriter Teeks, real name Te Karehana Gardiner-Toi (Ngāpuhi, Ngāi Te Rangi, Ngāti Ranginui), makes music that quite simply, makes you cry

Both his 2017 EP, The Grapefruit Skies, and 2021 debut album Something to Feel brim with lyrics informed by longing and intimacy. Next month, Gardiner-Toi will deploy his heartbreaking tunes in a solo show at Auckland’s Spark Arena, in what will be his first-ever arena performance. 

Breaking with tradition, we asked Gardiner-Toi about his other, less well-known passion: food.

OK, so you’re into boxing at the moment – has that had any impact on what you’re eating?

Well, that’s the thing, I have such a fast metabolism, I find it really hard to gain weight. So I’ve had to try really hard to. It’s not that I can’t eat a lot, I can eat a lot in one sitting but it’s the frequency of eating that’s a challenge for me. I’m getting a lot better. It’s just making it part of my routine. This morning after training I went to a cafe and had a big breakfast with coffee, but I swapped out the bacon and sausages for avocado and baked beans.

Why did you swap those out?

I didn’t eat meat for quite a while actually, I was pescatarian. I was flexible, I wasn’t religious about it. The important thing for me is just being conscious about what I’m eating, what I’m consuming and where it comes from. But in the past few months, I’ve thrown it all out the window because I’m trying to eat so much protein to put weight on so it’s been hard. I eat red meat from time to time, I eat chicken. I don’t eat pork. That’s the one thing I don’t eat.

What’s the motivation behind being flexitarian? 

I just didn’t want to contribute to the meat industry by buying meat. The impact on the environment through farming and overproduction of meat is something I wouldn’t want to be part of. But I can’t not eat seafood because I’m Māori. So I’m not wavering on fish and seafood – especially if it’s fresh. If I go home and my dad’s gone fishing or gone diving, that’s my favourite thing.

You also don’t want to starve when you’re back home.

Even now, I still struggle with going to the marae, because mostly everything that’s served has got meat in it and I don’t see the marae going vegetarian anytime soon.

I think you’re right. Do you have a favourite kai at the marae?

Any type of seafood. I love raw fish, I love kina, I love mussels. Something I also really love is mince. Just mince stew with mashed potatoes – I love that so much. That was the one thing I missed most when I wasn’t eating meat, just mince, not even a steak. 

Have you got any tactics around where you sit in the whare kai?

See, you’ve got to position yourself strategically. If you’re sitting at the wrong table like with Mum or aunties or something, the seafood is pretty much gone. You wanna sit with the ones that don’t like it.

Next month, Teeks will perform his first solo arena show at Spark Arena. (Photo: Danni Bishara)

Do you have any really early food memories?

My nan used to make bacon hock soup with veggies and stuff. It was so good. I don’t eat it anymore because I don’t eat pork, but that’s very nostalgic because it reminds me of being at my nan’s place. She’d always try to feed us when we’d go over there. She lives in Tauranga, she’s still at the same place. My parents were pretty good at cooking so I always had good food growing up. Even when they didn’t have all the money in the world, they still made do and cooked good meals. My dad’s a good cook. I think I learnt how to cook from him.

Does your dad have any specialties?

He loves to make spicy food. Sometimes he’d make a curry with chicken, he’d make that quite often, but a lot of the time it would be way too hot for anyone to eat. My spice tolerance is pretty good now, I think it’s because I had to down all that chicken curry my dad made. Pasta too. I love Italian food. I feel like I’m better than him at making pasta now. That’s something I really enjoy, cooking pasta. And I like to drink red wine. 

A perfect combination really.

Exactly. That’s one of my favourite things to do: cook a meal, cook pasta, play some music, put a record on and drink wine. Even if I’m by myself. That’s my idea of a good night. 

What music are you playing while you cook?

I like to listen to some classic soul joints like Marvin Gaye or Aretha. I also like to listen to world music when I cook – songs in different languages like Spanish because it gets me channeling that energy, creating an atmosphere. I’ve started my own playlist – it’s literally called “cooking”.

It’s amazing the difference music can make when you’re cooking, sometimes it feels like it can transform a whole dish.

Yeah, I believe that. It’s like it transports you. I feel like I’m in another country, I’m cooking, I’m drinking wine! I live with three of my friends who have been living together for a long time and we have a roster for cooking. I’ve made gnocchi a couple of times but then we won’t eat till after nine because it takes me so long to make the meal, so everyone’s starving. When I have those nights, I feel like I want to create a whole vibe. I find cooking therapeutic.

How long did it take you to get to the point where you had a functioning flat cooking roster?

It took maybe a year. I was the one that cooked the most because I enjoyed it but then I got to a point where I’d run out of things to make so I was like “OK guys we need to make a roster because I’m not gonna be your personal chef”. I’m also very particular about what I eat so it was a big deal for me to allow my friends to cook for me.

What are you particular about?

Um, food that tastes good. Nah they’re not too bad, they’re actually good. I just feel like my family, even when we go out we have high standards where we know what good food is. I hate going to a cafe or a restaurant and having a mediocre meal when you’re paying like 30 bucks. 

Do you have any food spots that are reliably good?

For breakfast, I really like Hare and Turtle. Everything about that place is solid. The food’s always good, the coffee’s good, the staff are really nice, the atmosphere is really nice. It’s a solid place to go and eat. For dinner I like to go to Dominion Road, I like to go to Gogo’s Music Cafe. Have you been there?

Yup, love Gogo’s.

It’s such a vibe! I love that place. The aesthetic is country western, but they’re serving Chinese food. It’s just so random, but I love how chaotic it is. 

Have you ever been when someone’s playing music there?

No, no, have you?

It’s very rare, but I went once and there was one guy playing guitar on stage – I’m not even sure if he was meant to be there though to be honest. 

OK, wow. I was wondering if it was actually a music cafe.

What’s your order when you’re at Gogo’s?

I get the skewers now and then, but I love the spicy chicken noodles. It’s this big dish and it’s so good, like 30 bucks for the small one or 50 bucks for this massive one. That’s just so good. And the deep fried buns with the condensed milk. I like to order a Tsingtao beer tower too. It’s a good time.



An excellent choice. So if you’re cooking for yourself, is your approach the same as when you’re cooking for others?

No, I think in a way it is different. I feel like when I’m cooking for other people I am more invested in the meal. When I’m cooking for myself, I tend to be lazy. I just whip something up really quick so I can eat. When I’m cooking for other people, I don’t feel pressure, but I do feel invested in the experience for others.

I think for me, because food is such a social thing too, like breaking bread and being with friends, that’s part of the reason I love eating so much is because I get to sit down at a table with people and talk and laugh. It’s also just another form of self expression, or creativity. It’s like whether you’re making music or making a dish, it’s the same thing at the end of the process, you have this thing that you made and I like that, I like that feeling. I used to want to be a chef actually when I was young.

What changed? 

I worked as a kitchen hand in a restaurant. I didn’t enjoy it, the chefs just seemed very stressed out. I would have been 17 or 18. I was washing dishes and it was quite a labour intensive job – it was hard. I’m also not the most outgoing person, and sometimes I would have to go and serve tables, but I didn’t really like to go out and talk to people.

Was that the end of the hospo road for you?

Yeah that was it. But after that I did retail which was even worse.

Teeks on the set of ‘Remember Me’. (Photo: Mataara Stokes)

Other than avoiding meat, is there anything else you don’t eat?

Right at this point in time, I just don’t eat pork. I’m not a fussy eater. There’s hardly anything that I won’t eat if it’s made properly and it’s cooked right. I thought I hated Brussels sprouts when I was younger because my dad, I said he was a good cook, but he used to just boil Brussels sprouts. That is not it. I just always had in my head “I hate Brussels sprouts, yuck, yuck, yuck”. But then I discovered different techniques of cooking Brussels sprouts, like roasting them. I love Cotto on Karangahape Rd, the Italian place. They make really good Brussels sprouts with balsamic glaze and they’re roasted, almost burnt. 

Where is your favourite place in the world for food?

I was in New York in April and I think  the variety of food in New York is crazy because it’s like a melting pot of ethnicities and different cultures. I ate so much food, and I loved everything. I love Mexican food. I love eating tacos. I love Italian food. So I ate a lot of pasta as well. Pizza was amazing. It’s the best pizza. They don’t make pizza like that here. There was this one place I went to and it was Puerto Rican, called Casa Della, and honestly, it’s not like the flashest place, it’s very homely, it’s unassuming, but the food is amazing, it’s just so tasty. You know, it tastes like there’s an old lady in the kitchen and she’s just cooking the food and it’s recipes that she’s had for ages. Even the rice – it was just white rice but I’ve never had rice like that before. I’ll take a place like that over a five star restaurant any day.

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So would you pick an inexpensive place over a fancy dining experience?

There’s a duality. I have multiple personalities. One part of me likes the low-key, chill type places, like I don’t want to go somewhere where I’m going to bump into people that I know. But sometimes it’s nice to have a nice quality meal with drinks, especially if I can do it with my family and friends. I don’t mind spending money on food if it’s good.

Is there a food that has been discontinued that you miss?

I remember when I was young, my parents would always take me to Georgie Pie. I vaguely remember going there as a young kid and getting a pie. I like those memories. Obviously the restaurants are discontinued but then they started putting them out at McDonald’s. I like a good pie.

What’s your pie order?

Mince and cheese, or I love potato top if it’s a mean one, with real potato and cheese on it. They make really good pies at the Cottage Bakery in Kingsland. The pies there are so good, the potato top especially – I haven’t had that in a while.

This interview has been edited for length and clarity.

Find tickets for Teeks at Spark Arena on Saturday 12 November 2022 here.

Ātea