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Supie
Sarah Balle, centre, with Supie staff (Photo: Supplied)

BusinessApril 26, 2022

‘I sleep on the floor … I sleep in my car’: What it’s like fighting NZ’s supermarket duopoly

Supie
Sarah Balle, centre, with Supie staff (Photo: Supplied)

At online grocery store Supie, founder Sarah Balle spends her day packing orders, making deliveries, courting investors and, she says, fighting for a fairer deal for shoppers and suppliers.

“Do you want to grab a chair?” Sarah Balle stands in a concrete bunker on a sprawling industrial estate in Wiri surrounded by freshly picked produce. Broccoli drips with last night’s rain, pumpkins glow orange after being chopped with a machete, and huge bunches of freshly picked celery and wong bok cabbage sit waiting to be packed into boxes, then delivered to customers. 

One of Balle’s staff members cuts up fruit — deep purple dragonfruit and a new blood-red kiwifruit — to show off recent additions to their range.

Supie
Sarah Balle (centre) with some of her Supie staff members. (Photo: Supplied)

Amid all of this, Balle sips instant coffee and offers me a seat. Only I can’t see one. Finally I realise she’s pointing to a handful of crates dotted around the floor. “We couldn’t afford chairs [so] we built these,” she explains. “We found some beer crates, got the tops from Spotlight, and made them.” Each one cost about $4. 

At Supie, Auckland’s online grocery delivery service that Balle started “on the smell of an oily rag” 11 months ago, the cost-cutting initiatives don’t end there. Upstairs in the company’s head office are wobbly tables constructed out of doors sitting on trestles. “I got them from Bunnings for $40,” says Balle. “They work, right?”

At every possible point, Supie’s small team scrimps and saves to cut down on expenses. Produce is ordered daily to the quantities required, picked fresh, then sent straight to customers on the same day. All packaging, including cardboard boxes and chill packs, is returned and re-used.

She’s not embarrassed. Balle’s proud of her financial initiatives. Every cent she saves means she can pour that back into Supie, the business no one believed she’d be able to build.

Against all the odds, Supie is thriving. Less than a year old, Balle’s small team is delivering to customers across Auckland, who order online and keep coming back for more. Prices are competitive, they’ve just received their liquor license to sell alcohol, and Supie’s range of 5500 products is growing, with a wait list of 100 suppliers hoping to sign up. Customers seem to like the feeling that they’re supporting a true Kiwi battler.

Subscribers, who pay $100 a year for Supie memberships and get free delivery and bonus samples in their boxes, recently topped 20,000. When The Spinoff visits on a drizzly Wednesday morning, staff are busy packing more than 200 orders across four different departments: produce, ambient, chilled and frozen. Drivers will arrive at 3pm, load up, then head off on delivery routes. Orders close off at 2am, so this happens every single day of the week.

Supie’s growth is most visible in staff numbers. “Six weeks ago, we had 26 employees. Now we have 35,” says Balle. “We’re bringing on probably another 10 in the next six weeks.” She met one of those, her sustainability lead, while delivering her groceries to her.

Supie
Supie customers can sign up for membership packages that include free shipping and samples. Photo: Supplied

Until they can scale, keeping things lean and mean is the only way Supie can compete in an industry dominated by a duopoly, one so powerful the Commerce Commission recently investigated it. “That’s how we’re going to return profit to our investors, or reinvest in the business to keep growing it,” says Balle. “We need to get more bang for our buck.”

Balle’s constantly searching for savings she can make. Recently, Supie “halved” its labour spend by monitoring how far staff were walking each day, then reworking floor plans to save time. Up late one night, Balle designed her own produce shelves, despite having no prior experience. Then she called a workmate to boast about them. “We need to get those extra tweaks, week on week.”

Being so frugal means there aren’t even enough funds available for a large Supie sign at the front of their Wiri base. When I tell Balle I made several U-turns before finding the right driveway, she laughs. “We literally can’t afford it,” she says.

Then she rethinks her response. “Why would I invest in that?”

Her mission, taking on that duopoly, is huge. In a sector dominated by Woolworths, which owns Countdown, and Foodstuffs, which runs all New World and Pak’nSave supermarkets, its alleged the lack of competition has led to price-gouging, resulting in profits of more than $1 million a day.  A government response to the Commerce Commission’s report, which suggests a mandatory “grocery code of conduct” be introduced, and land freed up for new supermarkets, is due shortly.

Balle’s task is so big that when she initially approached investors about Supie, no one believed she could do it. “They all said … it wouldn’t work,” she says.  They told her, “What makes you think you can take on a duopoly?” or, “There’s no way you’re going to achieve this.” One suggested she’d need a minimum investment of $10 million before she could even think about launching.

Balle gave up on outside investment, instead pleading with family and friends to chip in. To prove she was serious, she threw her life savings into it. “Everything has gone into Supie,” she says. She even sold her car. “I borrow my parents’ car and I live with my parents. It’s a huge personal sacrifice. I’m in my 30s and I’ve given up everything to do this.”

By June 1, 2021, the day Supie opened for business, she’d raised $1 million, one tenth of what she’d been told she needed.

It seems like an impossible mission. So why is she doing this? “Because it’s so important.” Balle has a well-used list of grievances against the duopoly, listing food wastage, lack of innovation and ever increasing grocery prices. “What’s happening in the sector is awful, in terms of how suppliers are being treated. They’ve also been let down on food prices.

“It breaks my heart to see … the amount of waste that the supermarkets don’t pick up and sell.”

Supie
Supie customers order through a website for next-day delivery. Photo: Supplied

No one’s debating how toxic the grocery sector has become. With just two dominant players, consumers have faced skyrocketing food prices, leading to some bonkers behaviour. Recently, an Otago woman  found she could save 35% on pantry staples by ordering items through Amazon Australia and getting them shipped to New Zealand.

“It’s so broken,” says Balle. But is a small player like Supie the answer? Consumer NZ says it’s a big piece of the puzzle. “There’s an enormous benefit to an initiative like Supie,” says Gemma Rasmussen, Consumer NZ’s head of communications and campaigns. “Anything that offers more grocery choices for New Zealanders can be counted as a win in our book.”

It’s a start, and Rasmussen says Woolworths and Foodstuffs should be worried about Supie. “If they continue to grow, they could be a real challenger to the duopoly.”

Balle has big plans to do exactly that. Her aim is to become “the Netflix of grocery shopping”. Spend any time at Supie, and you’ll feel that Silicon Valley vibe everywhere. “It is a bit chaotic and startup-ish,” Balle admits. She talks of Supie one day offering a nationwide service from a centralised hub run entirely by robots. “We’ll service all New Zealand from that one site.”

But she’s protective of her tech. When I request to visit Supie’s grocery department, Balle stalls. That would expose her “IP”, she says. “We normally only show our produce area. The rest is on the D-low.” As a compromise, she opens up Supie’s chilled goods section, where two staff members wearing zipped up jackets pack boxes with lamb cuts sourced from Marlborough, Hohepa cheese from Hawke’s Bay, and pork belly from Canterbury.

“We’re pretty guarded of what we do,” she tells me. “You’re lucky to be here.” When I joke all this secrecy sounds a little like Theranos, Elizabeth Holmes’ failed Silicon Valley blood-testing startup, Balle quips that she left her black turtleneck  sweater at home. Then she says: “That’s the nervous part, going, ‘Am I an imposter?’ I have to remind myself, and pinch myself, that we actually send out orders, we are making a difference.”

Balle’s wariness shows just how competitive the grocery sector has become. She loses sleep worrying about new entrants with bigger backers, like Costco, coming into the market. That’s why she doesn’t want to expose any tech advantages Supie’s building in the back end. “Someone with deep pockets could come in and replicate what we’re doing,” she says. “We don’t want things getting out as to how we do things.”

Supie
Supie offers 5500 products with more on the way. Photo: Supplied

For any of this to come to fruition, Supie needs many more customers, and much bigger investments. After friends and family came on board to help Supie launch, Balle recruited more investors last year. Now her Auckland site is up and running, she hopes to use it to persuade even more to contribute. “If someone gave us $100m what we could achieve is so much more than what the duopoly could achieve,” she says, like she’s pitching to me.

As she talks, a forklift carrying pallets of carrots and cabbages drives past. It’s the first delivery from her parents’ Pukekohe farm, Balle Bros, the one she grew up and worked on as a teen. Since Supie launched, Balle’s been trying to persuade the duopoly to allow her to carry her family’s products, but exclusivity deals have meant she hasn’t been allowed to stock them, until now.

But there are still family products tied up in deals that she can’t add to Supie’s range of 5500 items. “I can’t get Mr Chips fries made with potatoes from my own family,” she says. “That’s the power of the duopoly. It’s mindblowing.”

The idea for Supie first came to her when she was living in Ponsonby, working as an accountant. Balle had been to the Netherlands, where you can order groceries and get them delivered 15- minutes later. Many other major cities already have this, but Aotearoa lags behind. She wondered why. “The experience of shopping online was awful compared with what was happening overseas,” she says. “Their food innovation is incredible.”

Why hasn’t New World or Countdown done anything about this? “Why would they?” says Balle. “People go into their stores every week, do their grocery shopping exactly the same way. They haven’t had to invest in online.” She notes Foodstuffs only began offering online delivery in the South Island last year. Their range, compared to Auckland supermarkets, is also diminished.

Balle wants Supie to change all of that. She talks of “personalised shopping experiences,” providing a service that understands individual needs, and makes things so quick and seamless that anyone in New Zealand can get their groceries delivered in 24 hours or less. “That’s saving them an hour a week. That’s a huge time saving they can be putting into their children or fitness. It’s quite a significant impact on people’s lives.”

The impact on Balle’s own life, however, is taking a toll. She hasn’t had a holiday since Supie launched last year, her only break a 12-day stint suffering Covid that left her bedridden. Since then, she’s slowed down slightly, but not much. Last weekend, she “jumped in the chiller” to help out. She’s often out doing deliveries, and met one of her recent staff additions that way. She’s also talking to new investors, hoping to raise more funds to make Supie bigger and better, something the duopoly needs to take seriously.

Sometimes, she stays at work so late she doesn’t bother going home. Instead, Balle will head upstairs, lie down on a sheepskin rug and pull the hood of her puffer vest over her head. Then she’ll wake up early, often starting her day at 5am. This is what fighting two behemoth grocery corporations looks like on the frontlines. She’s in the thick of it, and the only way to survive is by taking one step at a time. “Often I go for a nap in the car,” Balle says. “I’ve gotten real used to sleeping in the car.”

After this story was published, Foodstuffs North Island reached out to clarify there are no exclusivity provisions or restrictions that would prevent Supie from selling Mr Chips branded products or Balle Brothers vegetables.

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Sausage man
Rob Beard’s products are stocked in more than 200 supermarkets around the country. (Image: Supplied / Bianca Cross)

BusinessApril 23, 2022

The day a ‘sausage angel’ came to the rescue

Sausage man
Rob Beard’s products are stocked in more than 200 supermarkets around the country. (Image: Supplied / Bianca Cross)

Rob Beard was at the lowest point of his life when a mystery package arrived on his desk. He tells Chris Schulz what happened next.

In 2011, Rob Beard was at work when he received a courier package. That wasn’t unusual for the viticulturist. He’d worked in the wine industry most of his life, and thought it might contain grape samples for the following season’s vintage.

So Beard casually opened up his parcel and tipped the contents out onto a table. He couldn’t believe what he was seeing. Stacks of documents tumbled out, piles of worn paper and old cardboard covered in scrawled, handwritten lettering.

Clearly, it was something special, a personalised package that had taken the author weeks to put together. Dozens of recipes had been included, some scribbled down in pencil, others notes compiled on the back of Weetbix boxes. The collection included some pages the colour of nicotine, dating back to the 1930s.

Beard Brothers
Rob Beard with a collection of recipes that arrived by courier one day.

In total, it condensed a lifetime’s worth of work into one mystery box.

“I cried like a baby,” says Beard. He instantly knew who they were from, and why they were there. It meant his life was about to change. “I looked at them going, ‘Holy shit’.

“I couldn’t believe someone had done this.”

Six weeks earlier, Beard had been at his lowest. His sister had committed suicide in Scotland, and his wife Lara was in hospital, suffering excruciating bouts of morning sickness while pregnant with their third child.

Making matters worse was his job: Beard was sick of it.

“I’d had a bit of a shit run,” he says. Losing his sister was the big one. “[It] … changed everything, the way I looked at life, and all that sort of thing.”

The only thing bringing Beard any joy was his hobby. He loved to hunt, turning the meat into sausages in a shipping container plonked outside his Hawke’s Bay house. He dreamed of one day turning it into a business, but with a family of three young boys, it seemed too risky.

Late one night at hospital, while dropping his wife off for treatment, all this was going through his head when he felt a hand on his shoulder. Beard turned around and was surprised to find an old man greeting him.

Bandages covered most of the stranger’s head.

“Hey young fella, any chance of a ride home?” the old man asked him. Beard had nothing else to do, and he was concerned no one else was there to look after the man, who seemed frail. “Shit yeah, of course, 100%,” he replied.

He helped the old man into his ute and, over the half-hour ride home, the pair got talking. “I told him what I did … I said, ‘I’m over what I do.’ He said, ‘What do you want to do?’ I said, ‘I want to start my own business.'”

Beard told him he made sausages and salamis for fun. The old man told him he used to be a butcher. “He said, ‘You just follow your dream, mate, just do it’.” Beard told him he couldn’t afford to: he had three young children and a job that paid well. He couldn’t give that up.

The old man calmly nodded his bandaged head.

Then he told him: “You’ll be fine. Just do it.'”

Over the next six weeks, the old man’s words rattled around in Beard’s head. At work, they’d come to him like a mantra: “Just do it, just do it, just do it.” He wanted to quit, but couldn’t. “I was on a good wage. Max would have been four or five, Sam (was about to be born)…”

Then the package arrived. It was from Garth Currie, the old man Beard had helped get home that night. It contained a complete collection of all Currie’s recipes, gathered over his many years running a local Bay butchery.

Beard could tell it had taken a huge effort to put them all down on paper. “For him to write these recipes, at his age, and his health, and the state he was in, would have been a major battle,” he says.

The writing was legible, but only just. “His focus is buggered, some are capital letters, some are smaller letters, they’re on an angle. It would have taken a mammoth effort to write that.”

Beard Brothers
Garth Currie’s recipes were written by hand during his final days.

Even with his limited butchery experience, Beard could tell Currie’s recipes contained something special. “There are so many recipes … of really old school stuff,” he says. “You couldn’t Google how to do it. It’s proper butchering.”

Some included heirloom herbs Beard had never heard of. Others were tried and true staples. Next to a recipe for saveloys, Currie had written: “This one’s a good seller, Rob.” Many dated back decades. One recipe was from “some French guy who knew someone in the war”.

Also included was a note from Currie. It said: “I would love to tie sausages with you one day.”

Out in his shipping container, Beard got to work. He installed a small beer fridge, and bought a mincer from a man called Wally in Palmerston North. He began testing Currie’s recipes, starting with black pudding and pork sausages.

He quickly realised these recipes were the real deal. “That was the push,” he says. “That was the snippet in time that made me go, ‘You know what? Fuck my job.'”

Finally, Beard started making plans to take the leap. He organised a three-month mortgage holiday. He began selling products using Currie’s recipes at a local farmers’ market. And he opened a small store at the front of his Hawke’s Bay house.

Then Beard had a thought: “I’d better ring Garth.”

He quickly got on the phone. Currie’s wife answered. She told him he was too late. Garth had passed away.

They’d never get to tie sausages together.

Looking back now, Beard doesn’t know how he pulled it off. At constant risk of losing his house, with a newborn baby joining the family, he started his artisanal butcher business Beard Brothers armed with a box of old recipes and a shipping container.

He made black pudding using secret herbs grown in his back yard, and sausages using specific ingredients supplied by Currie’s recipes. Even now Beard shakes his head remembering the early days. “I’m not even a butcher,” he says. “I’m self-taught. That’s crazy.”

Slowly, word started to spread. Beard’s black pudding began winning acclaim, then awards. Simon Gault praised it as the best in Aotearoa. One day, Peta Mathias knocked on his front door, asking for some. Supermarkets came on board.

Beard Brothers
Rob Beard’s products include pork and puha, and pork and watercress. (Photo: Supplied)

Now, with a production facility in Hastings, and more than 20 full-time staff processing up to six tonne of meat a day, Beard Brothers is stocked in 102 New Worlds, 52 Four Squares and all seven Gilmores stores.

Top sellers include classic beef and pork sausages, as well as more unique flavours like pork and watercress. Beard has four hectares of puha, a kind of thistle, commercially planted for use in his pork and puha sausages.

His aim is to become “the Whittaker’s of the sausage world – we want to be a trusted New Zealand brand.”

Beard owes it all to Currie. “I don’t think I would have done what I’d done if i hadn’t met Garth that night.”

It sounds like an overnight success story, but it’s taken him more than 10 years to get Beard Brothers to this point. It hasn’t been easy. Beard recalls working 100-hour weeks, the pressure taking a toll on his family, his relationships and his health.

Two years ago, he suffered a heart attack.

“It’s been really tough,” he says. “I used to work Monday to Friday, drag the kids to the farmers markets on Saturday and Sunday. My wife Lara would look after the shop … it’s relentless. A hundred hours a week was nothing to me.”

Money was a constant worry. “I could have lost everything at any moment.” Beard spent many nights lying awake, wondering: “When’s it going to change? It must change. It’s gotta change.” It seemed like the day he’d run a profitable business would never come.

It did come, but it only happened about 12 months ago. That means Beard has had a little time to think about other things lately. Recently, he cleaned out his shipping container, serviced his mincer, and dusted off Currie’s old recipes.

He’s only used a few of them, and there are many more he wants to trial. “It’s gone full circle,” he says.

But there’s been something else on his mind. Beard feels like a caretaker, a guardian of sorts, for Currie’s recipes. That means sooner or later, he’s going to need to pass them on to someone else, to honour the gift that he’s been given. “They will stay in my safe keeping for the time being [until] I choose a protege,” he says.

When he does, Beard will tell them the story of the night he met a “sausage angel … a guy who had come to the end of his life, he knew his time was nigh, and he passed it on.

“It’s a pretty cool thing.”