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Hayden Donnell attempts to navigate the McDonald’s drive-thru (Image: Archi Banal)
Hayden Donnell attempts to navigate the McDonald’s drive-thru (Image: Archi Banal)

KaiDecember 2, 2023

Why are drive-thru menus so hard to read?

Hayden Donnell attempts to navigate the McDonald’s drive-thru (Image: Archi Banal)
Hayden Donnell attempts to navigate the McDonald’s drive-thru (Image: Archi Banal)

Drive-thru menus these days are confusing and scattershot, filled with a random assortment of doodles of food and vague adwords. It didn’t used to be this way, writes Hayden Donnell.

Kate was young, but she can still picture it clearly. She was in the back of the car as it pulled into a McDonald’s drive-thru. The menu in front of her was easily legible, even for a child. Every item was listed alongside its price. The experience was relaxing, like jumping into a cool, placid lake of the mind. “You knew what toy was available. What type of burger. No surprises. The occasional Friday night Happy Meal at McDonald’s was an exciting experience.”

Kate is now 38, and things are not just different; they’re exponentially worse. When she pulls into a drive-thru, she’s never quite sure what’s available. The specials are about as accessible as hieroglyphics on an ancient tomb wall. She hurriedly checks the McDonald’s website on her phone while waiting in line before just giving up and ordering the same thing she always does.

Her pain is imparted directly by a glowing digital board perched on the curb. Drive-thru menus, once a succinct, systematic summation of a fast-food restaurants’ offerings, are now a confusing jumble of words and pictures. Only a tiny, seemingly randomised portion of the menu is displayed at any one time. Many of the options are withheld altogether, available only in the deep reaches of the internet or the hazy halls of memory. A formerly exciting experience is “now a frazzled one”.

She’s far from alone in her frustration. Dozens of people contacted by The Spinoff confirmed they too are terrorised by the modern drive-thru experience. “I don’t even bother looking at the board, it’s too stressful. I’ll forget what I came to order. They may as well not have one tbh,” says Teresa. Estelle says it’s impossible to know how much her meal will cost these days because the pricing scrolls away before she can digest it properly. “I just never change my order at this point, wouldn’t have a clue what any of the new products are,” she says. That appears to be a common tactic. “Anxiety around this makes me memorise my order before I get there. Maccas is easy because it’s the same order every time: 6-pack nuggies meal,” says Emma.

The Spinoff put questions on this issue to KFC and McDonald’s, asking why their menus have changed from this:

An olden-day drive-thru menu from when the now-ancient Millennial generation was young.

To this:

A typical drive-thru menu at McDonald’s. A full quarter is taken up with the words “Hi there. We’ll be right with you.” It’s fucked.

“Thank you for contacting KFC New Zealand,” said KFC New Zealand. “We will share your feedback with our Marketing team. They are continually reviewing feedback to improve and we appreciate you taking the time to share this with us.” When told The Spinoff’s email was a media query, KFC stopped replying.

McDonald’s was more helpful. In a preliminary response, its spokesperson Simon Kenny said the basic reason drive-thru designs have changed is because the chain’s menu has expanded drastically. He helpfully mocked up what a menu would look like if it used the older format today: 

McDonald’s HQ’s visualisation of a potential modern-day menu using the chain’s old style.

A more fulsome statement followed later, saying, in essence, that the world has changed and The Spinoff should get used to it. Not only is McDonald’s’ menu more extensive, drive-thrus themselves have been tweaked to maximise efficiency and move customers through quickly. Speed is now the aim of the drive-thru game. “People’s expectation of how quickly they can order and be served has increased, and in turn customers tell us for them, drive-thru is the channel they use when they generally know what they want, and they want it fast,” Kenny said. 

That hasn’t put people off, he added. About 60 to 70% of customers use a drive-thru where one is available. “We don’t get many complaints about not showing a full menu in drive-thru, especially with the changes made in store to accommodate those who want to use the kiosks.”

McDonald’s may not get a lot of complaints, but The Spinoff is flush with them. They come from scores of people suffering a gnawing unease. Anxiety is bubbling in their psyche, and it boils over every time their car pulls up at a digital billboard emblazoned with a massive picture of a McMuffin.

‘He mea tautoko nā ngā mema atawhai. Supported by our generous members.’
Liam Rātana
— Ātea editor

Maybe it would be difficult to design a menu that doesn’t imbue these complainants with panic and disorientation, given McDonald’s ballooning set of offerings. But with all due respect, the correct response to this kind of logistical difficulty is to find ways to fit all your menu items into the space available, not to fill your digital board with random doodles and words of affirmation.

Maybe the children are the problem. Gen Z has never gone through the zen-like experience of pulling into a drive-thru and calmly ordering from a fulsome list of options. Generation Alpha are still babies and can neither drive nor make a formal complaint. The problem can’t be that I – I mean The Spinoff – is old. No, The Spinoff is still young. McDonald’s needs to fix this. It needs to take The Spinoff back to when the world was fizzing with hope and possibility. It needs to restore the past, which was better on an objective level and not just because The Spinoff’s back didn’t hurt. And while they’re at it, can they bring back apricot pies? The Spinoff misses them.

Keep going!
The notice on the door of Cotto
The notice on the door of Cotto

KaiDecember 1, 2023

What’s going on at Cotto and the Leigh Sawmill Cafe?

The notice on the door of Cotto
The notice on the door of Cotto

Cancelled bookings, ‘temporary’ closures, ‘unforeseen circumstances’ and yet no official announcement from anyone linked to the popular Auckland businesses. What’s going on?

Two high-profile Auckland eateries linked to a prolific hospitality figure have closed unexpectedly, leaving customers in the dark as to why and for how long.

A notice has been pinned to the door of Karangahape Rd pasta bar Cotto since last week, apologising to “valued customers” and blaming “unforeseen circumstances” for being unable to open. “We sincerely apologise for the inconvenience caused,” the note reads.

Meanwhile, in Leigh, the coastal community north of the city, the much-loved Leigh Sawmill Cafe (not to be confused with the nearby Sawmill Brewery) has also closed its doors, with staff being told to hand in their keys to the venue on Friday last week.

The link between the two is Craig Anderson, an Auckland businessman involved in a number of hospitality businesses in the region. According to the Companies Register, Anderson is a current director and/or shareholder of 32 different companies, including Cotto Karangahape Road Ltd, which covers the bar side of Cotto, and Sawmill Holdings Ltd, trading as Leigh Sawmill. Another company, Speakeasy Holdings Ltd, covers the restaurant operations of Cotto.

An application by Inland Revenue for the liquidation of Speakeasy was submitted to the High Court in July. This was set down to be heard in September, according to a gazette notice. Inland Revenue applies to liquidate businesses over unpaid taxes. It’s not clear what the current status of the liquidation application is. 

Leigh Sawmill Cafe in easier times (Photo: RNZ)

Cotto, noted for its handmade pasta and intimate setting, quickly became a firm favourite in Auckland after opening its doors in 2018. A 2022 review by Jesse Mulligan in Viva described it as a “trusty old friend”, while Metro celebrated its sharing plates and vegetarian options in its 2019 restaurant awards.

Would-be diners at Cotto have posted on social media this week about being having their bookings cancelled with little to no notice. A number of Facebook posts show people reporting their group bookings had been cancelled, with one customer saying the restaurant had closed “unexpectedly”.

In an email shared on Reddit, a diner was told that Cotto would not be “operational” this week. “The owner is doing everything to get us back up and running ASAP,” said the message. “I know this is last minute and the inconvenience it will undoubtedly cause you [sic].”

While Cotto’s website is still online, bookings are currently unavailable. “We are working to have this situation rectified as soon as possible,” a message on the booking page reads.

A source with knowledge of the situation told The Spinoff that staff arrived at work as normal last Tuesday, but by 5pm the notice had been put on the door confirming the closure. They described the sudden shutdown as “heartbreaking”, especially given Cotto’s popularity and perceived financial success.

One of Anderson’s other businesses is Anthology bar, next door to Cotto. Anthology is understood to be cancelling event bookings with short notice.

Attempts by email to reach Anderson were unsuccessful. Approaches were also made to Cotto’s head chef, John Pountney, who did not want to speak.

Fresh pasta sheets at Cotto (Photo: Supplied)

As The Spinoff reported in 2020, Anderson was also running Leigh Sawmill Cafe north of Auckland, having leased it from the long-running venue’s owners five years ago. 

The venue, once famous for its ability to lure Auckland’s gig-goers beyond Karangahape Road, had “slowly turned to shit” since Anderson took over, according to one former regular. They complained that the quality of food had become unpredictable and that staff turnover was high, along with something harder to put a finger on – “bad vibes”.

A staffer told The Spinoff that they were told to hand in their keys to the venue last Friday, but there was little clarity on what would happen next. “I love that place. I spent a lot of time there. And I feel a lot has to do with the money.” There was a sense that the closure at least ends a difficult time, they said.

“It’s good that Craig is out because unfortunately, he didn’t care about the community, and the place, and unfortunately, that started reflecting on the business.”

It’s understood that Anderson stepped away from the Leigh Sawmill Cafe several months ago, returning it to the previous managers Benjamin and Edward Guinness, the sons of the venue’s founder Gratton Guinness, who died in 2018. On August 23, 2023, Leigh Sawmill Cafe Ltd, which has the Guinness brothers listed as directors, was removed from the Companies Register. Anderson’s company, Sawmill Holdings Ltd, remains.

The Spinoff approached both Guinness brothers for comment via email but received no response. A call to the company listed as the registered office of the Leigh Sawmill Cafe was not answered.

The venue had been struggling to maintain its opening hours for some months, with posts on Facebook referencing bookings having to be cancelled, “complications with the business” and a “business restructure”. There had been phone and internet problems, and on October 19, Leigh Sawmill posted in a local Facebook group to say “we are scrambling to get the business up for the long weekend”. One commenter on the post noted that it was “pretty hard to open when the beer has run out”.

On November 18, a Facebook post said Sawmill would be open for a gig that weekend, advising people to have dinner sorted before going, and to bring cash due to internet problems. Last weekend, the doors remained closed. The three times The Spinoff called this week, no one answered the landline. On social media, there have been reports of recent gig cancellations at the venue.

The sudden closures of Cotto and the Leigh Sawmill are not without precedent. Earlier this year, high-end Auckland restaurant Pasture closed similarly without warning. While Pasture’s demise was permanent, it’s possible Cotto and Leigh Sawmill will return, The Spinoff understands. Cotto’s venue and events manager, Nadia Coombes, told Stuff that Cotto was undergoing a “change in ownership process” and would not reopen “any time within the next two weeks at least”, while it’s understood the owners of Leigh Sawmill hope to reopen too.

For now, K Rd will be without Cotto at least for the busy pre-Christmas period, and as the summer gig season approaches, all eyes will be on the doors of Leigh Sawmill. 

If you know more, contact stewart@thespinoff.co.nz or gabi@thespinoff.co.nz 

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Gabi Lardies
— Staff writer