Image: Archi Banal
Image: Archi Banal

KaiMay 5, 2023

Ingredient of the week: Peanuts

Image: Archi Banal
Image: Archi Banal

Peanut products come in many shapes and forms, but they all have one thing in common: deliciousness. 

The peanut, aka the groundnut, goober, or monkey nut, has a big secret: it’s not a nut at all. Peanuts are legumes, like lentils and peas, but even stranger, because they’re grown underground. I’ll get to the “underground” bit in a moment, but first, a brief peanut history lesson.

Native to Peru, Bolivia, Argentina, and Brazil, the peanut has been happily munched upon for at least 7,600 years. Aztec and Inca civilisations even ground roasted peanuts into a paste – clearly, peanuts were always meant to be butter. Later, peanuts were spread around the world by Europeans, and they became an important crop in Asia and Africa.

In the South American country of Suriname, by 1870, a dish called pinda-dokkunnu (“peanut cheese”) was made – think a more solid peanut butter, served in slices like cheese. Despite a long history of peanuts being crushed to a paste, it wasn’t until 1884 that Canadian chemist Marcellus Gilmore Edson obtained the first patent for producing peanut butter from roasted peanuts. 

Delightfully, Edson’s peanut butter patent application describes the product as having, “a consistency like that of butter, lard, or ointment”. Mmm, ointment!

As well as their lovely ointment-like texture when ground, peanuts are also a nutritional firecracker – unless, of course, you have a peanut allergy. A 100g serving of peanuts contains 25g of protein, 570 calories, and a good chunk of the B vitamins, vitamin E, manganese, magnesium, phosphorus, and fibre you need for the day. 

Now, peanuts aren’t just for sprinkling on a banana split or smearing on a quick piece of toast. No stranger to industry, peanut oil is an ingredient in paint, furniture polish, insecticides, pharmaceutical drug nitroglycerin, soap, and cosmetics, while peanut shells are used to make products including plastic, glue, paper, and fuel. Multi-talented, you could say.

How peanuts are grown

Peanut growing is undoubtedly weird, so to get my head around the process, I got some insights from a verified peanut expert: Aimee McCammon, CEO at Pic’s Peanut Butter. Pic’s is coming into the third year of a trial growing peanuts in Te Tai Tokerau, Northland, so they have the first hand, green fingers experience.

Aimee explained that what we eat is the peanut seed. If you have a raw peanut with its papery reddish seed coat still intact, you can plant it in soil and grow a new peanut plant – a small, bushy being. After three or four months, the peanut plant develops yellow flowers, which only last for a day before dying and drooping downward. 

Two people crouch in between rows of green peanut plants. A black dog stands to their right.
Pic Picot (right) with Plant & Food’s Declan Graham at one of the trial peanut farms in Northland (Photo: Supplied)

From the dead flower emerges a stalk called the “peanut peg” (stick with me here) which grows downward and buries itself in the soil. From the buried end of the peanut peg, a new peanut shell forms, housing between one and four peanuts. This process is called geocarpy, a very rare method of plant reproduction – peanuts are the poster child for this unusual style of bearing fruit.

To harvest the peanuts, first the plant dies (a lot of death-brings-new-life going on here), and it’s then pulled from the soil, peanuts dangling in the roots like very dirty, high-nutrient gold. 

Where to find peanuts

Peanuts are pretty affordable, even in these mad times. You can buy peanuts in many forms (natural, with their red papery skin intact; blanched; roasted and salted; honied; spiced), so to keep things fair, I’m just comparing the cheapest biggish salted and roasted bag available.

At both New World and Pak’nSave, it’s $3.79 for a 400g bag of roasted peanuts, and at Countdown there’s a 500g bag for $4.40. Supie’s best option is Eta 200g for $2.90.

Peanut butter, I think, deserves a price check too. At Countdown, a standard 380g jar of Pic’s is $6.90 – although it was on special for $6 this week when I had a look. At Pak’nSave, the very same jar is $6.49, but amazingly, it’s New World that’s the winner – their Pic’s is a humble $6.29. Supie doesn’t currently stock Pic’s, but their standard 375g jars of Fix & Fogg is $6.

Two plates of rice topped with satay chicken. Each is served with green beans and brocolli. The plates are served on a dark purple tablecloth.
Thai-style satay chicken on rice. (Image: Wyoming Paul)

How to make peanuts amazing

There are endless meals, snacks, and chocolatey confectioneries made with peanuts, as is made very clear by the fact that George Washington Carver (often falsely referred to as the inventor of peanut butter) published a 1916 document titled “How to Grow the Peanut and 105 Ways of Preparing it For Human Consumption”.

As I have no desire to list 105 ways to prepare peanuts, and I imagine you have no desire to read them, here are some honourable mentions. Peanut butter cookies (yum), chopped roasted peanuts sprinkled over a banana split (double yum), ants on a log (the only way to entice a child or anyone else to eat raw celery), chikki (a traditional Indian sweet made from peanuts and jaggery), peanut brittle (a sweet to break your teeth on), peanut butter whiskey (I’m full of questions), and of course peanut butter chocolate in its dozens of forms.

Two bowls of peanut noodles topped with golden tofu and florets of broccoli.
Peanut noodles with crispy ginger tofu. (Image: Wyoming Paul)

The best, in my very humble opinion, is satay sauce. It must be, since it’s widely used in Indonesia, Malaysia, Thailand, Vietnam, China, Suriname and Africa, across a wide range of dishes. My go-to is Thai-style satay chicken on rice, served with steamed greens. Saucy, rich, salty, a little sweet – a meal of pure satisfaction. Another winner based on the gloriousness of satay are these peanut noodles with crispy ginger tofu

But it isn’t all about me. I asked Pic’s CEO Aimee about her favourite peanut butter snack, and she came back with this intriguing dessert combo: warmed Pic’s Smooth Peanut Butter over hokey pokey ice cream.

Wyoming Paul is the co-founder of Grossr, and runs a weekly meal plan that connects to online supermarket shopping.

Read all the previous Ingredients of the Week here.

Keep going!
Alby Wilson of 1Fish1Scoop. (Image: Supplied / Design: Archi Banal)
Alby Wilson of 1Fish1Scoop. (Image: Supplied / Design: Archi Banal)

KaiMay 5, 2023

The man reviewing every fish and chip shop in Christchurch

Alby Wilson of 1Fish1Scoop. (Image: Supplied / Design: Archi Banal)
Alby Wilson of 1Fish1Scoop. (Image: Supplied / Design: Archi Banal)

Ōtautahi has no shortage of fish and chip shops, and one deputy principal is on a mission to review them all – one fish and one scoop of chips at a time.

This is an excerpt from our weekly food newsletter, The Boil Up.

There’s the sound of crumpling paper, hunger-inducing shots of fresh-from-the-deep-fryer kai and very often, tidbits and facts about the shop and its surroundings. These are the decidedly no-fuss fish and chip video reviews posted to YouTube by 1 Fish 1 Scoop, AKA Ōtautahi deputy principal and history teacher Alby Wilson.

Each episode sees him travelling to a new spot in the city with the help of his wife, kids and friends, then ordering, as the name of his channel might suggest, one fish and one scoop of chips.

After two years of tasting, it’s clear that Wilson isn’t on a mission to simply elevate fish and chips, rather he’s in it to show that wrapped up among the battered fillets and steaming chips there is skill, art and history. I spoke to Wilson about the complexities of reviewing fish and chips.

Can you tell me about what you do when you’re not reviewing fish and chips?

I’ve worked at Rolleston College in Christchurch for the last two years. I’m the deputy principal here and a history teacher. That’s probably what intrigued me about this whole food thing, I’m a big history geek. 

You grew up in Aranui in Christchurch – how do fish and chips fit into your childhood memories?

In the early 90s, we would only buy dinner once a week if we could afford it. And that was the meal, fish and chips. So it was always part of my childhood. We had our local, which unfortunately came down during the earthquakes. Thankfully they relocated within the area. Gin’s Takeaways – in the heart of Aranui. 

When you’re reviewing fish and chips, what are you looking for?

Growing up in a low socioeconomic area like Aranui, in what was not the wealthiest family, in fact, on the poverty line, fish and chips was a special moment for us – it was a family thing. That’s what I try to look for in each review. I’m trying to get that feeling, and then try to connect it to the people who are watching. It’s like the film Ratatouille when the grumpy reviewer takes a bite and it takes him back to his childhood. 

How easy is it for fish and chips to go wrong?

It’s so easy just to get a little bit over[cooked], and because we eat straight outside the shop, I can imagine what something would be like when it gets home – it’s still cooking in the packet. Some fish and chips [sellers] poke the packets with the fork so it airs it out, or people still believe in ripping it open so it doesn’t get soggy. You can do all those tricks. But if the chips are over, or the fish is over or it’s too soft, there’s not much that can be done. They can get it wrong within just a minute or less than that – it’s either gonna be over or it’s gonna be under, and it’s a fine line.

It’s such an art!

It is. And I give it up to them. Some of the shop owners, they let me behind to watch them do it all. Even wrapping the fish and chips is a skill. And those busy shops where there’s a massive line waiting, the phone’s going off and it’s mum or dad working, son or daughter on the counter. And still, they just smash it out. They know the timings, no timer out or anything. It’s just such an art.

There’s often a lot of discussion, especially in the art world in Aotearoa, about how difficult it can be to be critical in this country – do you find that challenging in your reviews?

Yeah, it is. It is hard because on one hand I’m saying “support small business, go and check your local out”. On the other hand, if it’s not up to the mark I comment on it because I can’t go around saying everything’s perfect if I’m calling myself a fish and chip reviewer. It has taken me some time to be comfortable with that, especially post-Covid and knowing some owners now and hearing the struggle of keeping the shop open. So I always try and tag on a line around saying, I’m just one person, try it yourself.

The owner of Cashel Street Takeaways reached out to me after we didn’t give it a great review, saying, “Hey, can you please come in again?” And so we did. We got a real story with the food and he cooked us an amazing feed. In those moments you’re like gosh, this is a tough business. It’s a fine line being mindful of the shops trying to make a living and keeping the doors open to serve their communities. But I’m also calling myself a reviewer, which is to be critical, but you don’t have to be cruel. If I get too much into my head, I second guess myself. So thankfully, my wife’s on the camera, and she gives me the eye, like, “don’t be too generous”. 

What’s your methodology for your reviews?

We rate out of seven. The seven things are crunch, whether the chips are fluffy inside or too soggy; whether the fish is dry; the batter-to-fish ratio; the overall presentation; the size of the scoop; and then the vibe I get.

Do you unearth things while making these reviews that cross over into your history interests?

Definitely. When I ask the people making the fish and chips “How long have you been here?” and they start explaining that. They’re so busy so it can be hard to even ask questions. So I usually ask when they pass me over the food, and I sort of throw in a few quick questions as I’ve got their attention. And then you start getting a bit of a conversation, but I always know they’ve got to go to the next order. The history side of it is really just wanting to know more about the shop, their roots, how they started. It’s about people.

This interview has been edited for length and clarity.

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