Pastry cream crosses, anyone? (Photo: Supplied)
Pastry cream crosses, anyone? (Photo: Supplied)

KaiApril 11, 2019

Recipe: Ima’s hot cross buns

Pastry cream crosses, anyone? (Photo: Supplied)
Pastry cream crosses, anyone? (Photo: Supplied)

Yael Shochat, chef-owner of Auckland restaurant Ima Cuisine, shares the recipe for her hot cross buns – regularly voted among the best in the city.

HOT CROSS BUNS

Makes 12

You may use equal weights of pre-ground spices, but you’ll get a much better flavour if you can grind the whole spices yourself. You can make the pastry cream a day in advance, but you’ll need to re-whisk it before piping the crosses (see method below). You will have some leftover but it will last for a good four to five days in the fridge, then you can use it to fill tart cases or in other desserts. 

For the spice mixture:

  • 4 quills cinnamon
  • 1 nutmeg
  • 1½ teaspoons whole cloves

Break the cinnamon quills into pieces and quarter the nutmeg with a sharp knife. Transfer all spices to a strong plastic bag and beat with a wooden spoon against a hard surface to break the spices into small pieces, then grind to a fine powder with a spice grinder. If you are using pre-ground spices, mix together in a small bowl.

For the dough:

  • 850g strong bread flour
  • 125g unsalted butter, soft
  • 175g honey
  • 60g fresh yeast (or 20g dried active yeast)
  • 500ml whole milk, at room temperature
  • 25g salt
  • 250g currants
  • 125g mixed peel

Using a stand mixer: Combine the flour, butter, honey, yeast and milk in the mixer bowl. Using the dough hook, knead on medium speed for 10 minutes. Add the salt and spice mix and knead for a further 5 minutes. Leave the mixture in the mixer bowl.

By hand: Combine the flour, butter, honey, yeast and milk in a large bowl with a wooden spoon or electric beaters on low speed until well mixed. Transfer to a clean surface and knead for 15 minutes, until smooth and elastic. Add the salt and spice mix and continue to knead for another 10 minutes. Transfer to an oiled bowl.

Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and move to a warm place to let the dough rise until doubled in size, around 1½ hours, during which time you can prepare the syrup (below). After the dough has risen, knead in the currants and mixed peel with either the dough hook or by hand until evenly distributed.

For the syrup:

  • 150g (¾ cup) caster sugar
  • ½ cup water

Bring the sugar and water to the boil in a small saucepan. Simmer for one minute then remove from the heat. Let the syrup cool completely before using; you can speed up the process by placing the pan in a bowl of ice water.

For the pastry cream

  • ½ vanilla bean
  • 500ml whole milk
  • 60g cornflour
  • 90g caster sugar
  • 3 large eggs 
  • 50g unsalted butter, at room temperature

Use the tip of a sharp knife to score the vanilla bean lengthwise. Open up the pod and run the blunt edge of the knife from the top of the bottom to scrape out the seeds. Stir the seeds into the milk in a medium-sized saucepan, add the vanilla pod, and bring to the boil, stirring occasionally to prevent the milk from catching on the bottom of the pan. Once boiling, turn off the heat and let stand for 10 minutes to allow the flavour of the vanilla pod to steep into the milk, then fish the pod out and discard it.  

Stir the cornflour and sugar together in the bowl of a stand mixer. Add the first two eggs and beat with the paddle attachment on medium speed until no lumps remain, then beat in the remaining eggs one by one. With the mixer still on, slowly pour in the warm milk and continue to beat until combined.

Pour the custard back into the saucepan, and whisk over a low heat until it becomes thick and difficult to whisk. Continue to cook on low, whisking the whole time, for a further three minutes to cook out the taste of the cornflour. Add the butter to the pan and whisk until incorporated, then remove the pan from the heat.

You’ll want to cool the pastry cream before using, but it tends to form a skin on top. Three options to prevent this are:

  1. Transfer the pastry cream back into the mixer bowl and mix with the whisk attachment on medium speed until room temperature. If not using immediately, transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate.
  2. Transfer the pastry cream to an airtight container and brush the top with melted butter. Let sit until room temperature then refrigerate.
  3. Lay a piece of plastic wrap directly onto the pastry cream while still warm in the saucepan, then remove before using.

Prepare and bake the buns:

Divide the dough into 12 equal portions and form into round balls. Arrange on a lined baking tray with a 2cm gap between each ball and allow to rise in a warm place for 30 minutes until doubled in size. While the buns are rising, preheat the oven to 180°C.

Using the tip of a very sharp knife, score a cross on the buns about ½cm deep. Bake the buns for 15 minutes, until pale golden on top. Remove from the oven.

Fill a piping bag or zip-lock bag with the pastry cream and cut the tip off to create an opening about 1cm in diameter (or use a plain round 1cm nozzle). Pipe a cross of pastry cream into the scored lines on the buns. Return the tray to the oven and bake for a further 10 minutes, until the buns are medium brown and spring back when touched, and the pastry cream has golden spots on top. Allow the buns to cool on their tray for 5 minutes before brushing the tops, including the cross, with syrup. Eat warm, at room temperature, or sliced and toasted with butter.

To make ahead:

Buns can be baked in advance and frozen, back to back and tightly wrapped in plastic wrap, for up to one month if eating at room temperature, or longer if you will be slicing and toasting them. To eat them freshly baked in the morning, make the mixture the night before up to and including placing the individual balls of dough onto the tray, then immediately refrigerate. In the morning, place the tray in a warm place for an hour then bake as directed.

Keep going!
viavio-cheese

KaiApril 9, 2019

Getting to know your food chain: traditional Italian cheeses made in Nelson

viavio-cheese

In the third part of a series in which The Spinoff gets to know who, what, where and how our food gets to our plate, Alice Neville learns about what goes into making mozzarella, ricotta, gorgonzola and more.

The bright lights and smooth floors of the supermarket are a world away from the soil and sun, the plants, animals and humans which have toiled to create the food that arrives on the shelves. Most of us shopping in those shiny supermarkets have lost touch with where our food comes from and the people responsible for making it. Few of us know the chicken farmers or cheese makers or avocado growers who work to fill the supermarket, or how they produce the food we eat.

This disconnection from our food has created an array of modern problems that affect our health, our environment and our society. Because we don’t understand the effort and energy involved in producing food it’s hard to appreciate its worth. As a result, far too much valuable food ends up in the landfill. This lack of understanding about the origins of our food has created a world where unethical and environmentally suspect farming practices have thrived. And it means brilliant local food producers have struggled to survive, as consumers choose the cheapest, easiest option.

So, in partnership with New World, The Spinoff is getting to know the food that lands on the shelves of our supermarkets a bit better. We’re speaking to the people responsible for producing some of New Zealand’s beautiful local food about how it’s produced, where it comes from, and what makes it unique.

In part three, we learn about the Italian cheeses made by ViaVio.

Read part one on the world-class fruit produced by 45 South cherries in Central Otago, and part two on the extra virgin olive oil made by The Village Press.

ViaVio produces a range of Italian cheese styles (Photo: Barbara Ebner)

Italian couple Flavia Spena and Flavio Donati have long had a soft spot for Aotearoa. They’d visited many times over the years through Donati’s career as a professional rugby player, but though they loved it here, they always missed the deliciously unique Italian cheeses they enjoyed at home.

In 2016, the pair took the leap and swapped Rome for sunny Nelson, with Spena leaving her high-flying job as an executive for Bulgari, where she’d been for 25 years. It was time for a change of pace, so they founded ViaVio (the name comes from the last three letters of each of their names), and set about bringing traditional Italian cheeses to the people of New Zealand. They’ve already made their mark, taking home five medals in the 2019 NZ Champions of Cheese Awards as well as being honoured in 2018’s Inspire+ NZ Artisan Awards. Here, Flavia Spena shares their story.

How did you end up in New Zealand?

We had a very tight link with New Zealand because my husband used to play rugby professionally and he played with some top New Zealand players. So we had come to New Zealand many times and we liked the country.

As Italians, we like good food, and we noticed there was a limited variety of cheese here, especially Italian-style cheese. I was working very hard – I was a top executive of a multinational company in Italy for 25 years – so we decided to change our lifestyle and come to New Zealand and make cheese. We wanted to combine the top-quality milk that New Zealand has with traditional skills and knowledge from Italy, so we brought a cheesemaker with extreme passion for cheesemaking and 20 years of experience over from Italy.

Why was it necessary to get an Italian cheesemaker?

New Zealand is a very young country in terms of making cheese, and we felt to stay true to Italian traditions we needed someone with the necessary years of experience to make these particular types of cheeses. We make cheeses that are so different – even in Italy, there are people who specialise in specific cheeses and not others. In Italy, we have more than 1000 different types of cheese.

Was it hard to find someone with the right experience who was willing to move to New Zealand?

Yes, definitely, because there is high demand for cheesemakers in Italy. Cheesemakers can find everything they want in Italy, so we needed to find someone who is more adventurous, and who liked the idea of living abroad. It’s not easy to find a good, skilled cheesemaker who wanted to move. We are fortunate to have found the right person, we’re very happy. He’s extremely talented – he’s been making cheese for more than 20 years in Italy and he’s enjoying the adventure of making cheese in New Zealand. You need a person who is passionate about being with us and sees it as a long-term venture.

Why did you choose Nelson?

Firstly, it’s a nice place to be and has very good weather, then more importantly because we found the right farmer to provide us with the milk. It was very important to us that we knew the farmer and farm practices, to ensure we were getting the very best quality product. All our cheese and yoghurt is made from milk from local farm Oaklands, whose milk comes from A2-tested cows.

FLAVIO SPENA AND FLAVIA DONATI (PHOTO: SUPPLIED)

What sort of cheese do you make?

We make some cheeses that everybody knows, like mozzarella, but we also have some cheeses that people are less familiar with, like stracchino, for instance, and fontal. Not so many people in New Zealand know these styles, but when they have the opportunity to try them, they really enjoy them. The cheeses we produce are very popular in Italy – we eat cheese in Italy every day with a meal, whereas here people tend to use it mainly on a cheeseboard. We’re the best of both worlds for cheese lovers; we take the best New Zealand dairy and apply Italian cheesemaking techniques.

And you do a yoghurt too?

Yes, we make it to the same traditional recipe that they use in Italy, in the Dolomites. We sell the yoghurt in a glass jar like we do it in Italy. It’s a beautiful yoghurt – we always say that it’s the best yoghurt in New Zealand. Even people who usually don’t like yoghurt seem to like ours. There’s no added sugar but it’s naturally sweet because the milk is good. We are passionate about what we’re doing, so we make it simple but top quality.

What’s the most difficult cheese to make?

Gorgonzola is very sensitive to any differences in the milk. When working with natural milk, depending on the phase of lactation the cows are in, the milk can be very different in terms of fat and protein. In particular, gorgonzola is the most reactive cheese to these natural changes. The cheesemaker makes holes in the cheese into which oxygen flows to allow the mould to develop. This can be affected by differing fats and proteins, which cause the holes to close up and prevent the blue veins being visible (although the flavour will still be the same). You need a very experienced cheesemaker to read these natural challenges and balance all the variations. We really like our gorgonzola, but it’s a challenge to make!

ViaVio hopes to introduce new cheese styles to Kiwi palates (Photo: Barbara Ebner)

What’s your best-selling product?

The mozzarella and bocconcini (small balls of mozzarella), because they’re the products that people know the most. With others, like stracchino, they might not recognise the name, but once people try it, they like it so much. It has a yoghurty taste that matches so well with smoked salmon and vegetablesWhen they first find it on the shelf without knowing the name, some people are hesitant to buy it because they don’t know what to do with it. So, educating people about the simplicity of how to use our cheeses is key to encouraging those first-time purchases.

It’s the same with ricotta – we make it in the traditional way with just whey and salt. It’s still soft and light and low fat. People tend to think that ricotta is a sort of spread, so when they try it they’re very surprised about what they’re eating. We eat fresh ricotta with honey for breakfast every day in Italy.

What’s your favourite?

I like the ricotta a lot, and then we make an aged hard cheese, a washed rind called fontal. It is so good. In Italy, it comes from the mountains and they use it for cheese fondue.

What are the biggest challenges you face as a business?

People getting to know us, and knowing what to do with the cheeses we make. We are doing a lot of education and tastings – we try to explain to people how to use ViaVio cheese as a meal, with good, natural ingredients.

Do you think New Zealanders are open-minded about trying new cheeses?

Very much. A lot of New Zealanders travel and try food all over the world. We find New Zealanders very open to new products, but of course, if you grew up with only hard cheddar-style cheese and had never tried soft mozzarella, you would think it had a very different texture and flavour. You also need to understand how to use it. But definitely, we find people are very open-minded and they like good-quality products.

This article was created in paid partnership with New World. Learn more about our partnerships here.