A collage showing cheering football fans in yellow, a red warning sign about untreated wastewater discharging to sea, and newspaper headlines about Wellington's wastewater problems and football matches.
It’s been a rough summer for Wellington

OPINIONSocietyabout 10 hours ago

How to survive in Wellington right now

A collage showing cheering football fans in yellow, a red warning sign about untreated wastewater discharging to sea, and newspaper headlines about Wellington's wastewater problems and football matches.
It’s been a rough summer for Wellington

The mood around the Wellington Phoenix reflects the feeling of the city at large: the good days are behind us. But there are plenty of reasons for not giving up on Pōneke, writes Brooke Harper.

On February 21, thousands of hopeful Wellington Phoenix supporters streamed into the Cake Tin, chanting their songs with scarves aloft, eager to witness a long-overdue victory over our derby rivals Auckland FC.

However, dreams of an upset turned into a nightmare in an instant, with a colossal mistake, an own-goal that went viral around the world. Hopes of finally beating our hated rivals were dashed, as one goal became four before the break. By full time, five goals had been leaked. Six defeats in a row now to that most unlikeable club. Before the day was over, manager Giancarlo Italiano had called it quits.

The mood around the Phoenix reflects the feeling of the city at large. The good days are behind us. The Phoenix defence is leaking goals like our decrepit pipes spew water onto our capital’s streets. A more critical observer might even compare the quality of our performances to the excrement washing up on our southern shores. Decades of underinvestment from local government and at times hostile policy from central government has left Wellington’s infrastructure, housing and job market a shambles. Like the disgruntled fans who flocked to the exits at half time, many of our capital’s best and brightest are lining up at the departure gates, seeking opportunities in the promised lands of Australia.

It can be hard to remain optimistic about the future. You’ve every right to be angry. But if I’ve learned anything from supporting the Phoenix for the past 16 or so years, it is how to remain resilient, loyal and positive in the face of trying times.

As Wellingtonians, we’ve learned to accept the good and the bad of living here. For every chant of “We’ve got the wind, the rain and the Phoenix” from the Yellow Fever, we boldly proclaim “In Wellington it’s always sunny”. One day you’re pelted with hail hurtling sideways in a frigid southerly, the next day you’re basking in balmy 20-degree sunshine (often it’s the same day). Yes, it’s true, you really can’t beat Wellington on a good day, but only once you’ve suffered our famous polar gales first.

Wellington Phoenix supporters have weathered tough times before. Sure, it hurt to get thumped 5-0 by those northern upstarts, but it’s nothing new for us. I’ve stood in a near-empty stadium, a sea of yellow seats, lashed by heavy rain from all angles as my team gets demolished on more occasions than I care to recall. But those memories serve to make our playoff runs all the sweeter.

Phoenix fans in happier times (Photo: Getty Images)

Auckland fans don’t get this. Upon their bandwagon, they look down at their southern rivals, taunting and mocking our hapless state. They boast of their success, funded by their plastic-tat-peddling rich-lister and Trump-backing billionaire. But they can’t truly appreciate their success, not yet, for they have not suffered. To appreciate the highs of football, you must first endure your team sucking.

Real football fans don’t give up on their team. They turn up the week after a 5-0 drubbing. When their team goes a goal down, they chant louder. They back their team through thick and thin. 

Sure, our city is in a rough patch now. However, a rainbow on the horizon. Wellington’s Pride Festival kicks off this week, with the Pride Parade on Saturday, an opportunity to celebrate our city’s vibrant queer community. March is arguably the most eventful month in the capital, with the Aotearoa NZ Festival of the Arts running through to March 15, the Newtown Festival this Sunday, and CubaDupa at the end of the month. On March 14, Te Matapihi ki te Ao Nui, our new city library, will finally open. Te Ara Tupua, a pedestrian and cycle path connecting Petone to the city, is due to open in the middle of the year. One day we might even have a pedestrianised Golden Mile, light rail, functioning three waters, and some form of new Mt Vic tunnel. Good times are coming, so don’t renew your passport just yet.

The interior of Te Matapihi, with empty bookshelves.
The interior of Te Matapihi, with empty bookshelves, in September last year.

Wellingtonians, don’t give up on our city. Go to all the events. Eat at our cafes and restaurants. Walk in our precious green belt. Cherish our native bird life. And swim at our glorious beaches (when you can).

Because I once supported the Knights and the Kingz, I can appreciate how lucky I am to have the Wellington Phoenix. And because I lived in the sprawling hellscape of Auckland for 30 years, I can truly appreciate how lucky I am to call Wellington home.

And if the Phoenix men’s team is bringing you down, get behind our incredible high-flying women’s team.