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SocietyDecember 26, 2024

A life story

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Summer reissue: David Hill remembers an old friend, who you’ve probably never heard of.

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Doug (I’ll call him that) died in March. You won’t know him.

How do you measure the significance of a life? If you go for public profile, legacy of work, dramatic deeds, seminal ideas or discoveries, then Doug seems to sit well towards the Insignificant end of the spectrum. And yet…

I first knew him decades back, at our boys’ high school: a powerful young rugby player and competent-plus student. He was genial, sociable, easy in his own body. At regimented dances with the local girls’ high, figures in stiff petticoats and ponytails gravitated to him, while I glowered from a corner, skinny and spotty and sullen.

In our small, final-year class, we were thrown together. And Doug was friendly. Genuinely friendly, with the focus that means you’re being registered, being acknowledged as an individual.

He helped me bloom. What a… florid phrase. Yet, to have this proto-Apollo from a little farming town, this 1st XV captain and deputy head boy say “You’re bloody great with words, Dave. Wish I could do stuff like that”, helped me stand a bit taller, believe there could be a future beyond awkward, acned adolescence.

Then we left school, and I never saw him again for 55 years.

I remade contact because our high school began sending me Old Boys’ newsletters. Maybe they were hoping for endowments (from a writer??). One newsletter included names and last-known addresses for pupils from my decade. Beside the names was a column with ticks scattered down it, and the heading DEC – as in Deceased. A number of my peers were dead.

It jolted me. So over the next weeks I emailed or wrote to some of the unticked. “Saw your name… just want to say I remember you… hope you’ve had a good life… All the Best.”

Replies ranged from pleased to wary. One of the former was from Doug, a hand-written letter on lined notepaper. Bloody brilliant to hear from me; he was on the family farm, been there for ever; next time I was anywhere near…

Three months later, I was. A tiny rural town. Weatherboard houses alternating with paddocks. I stopped outside a big old place backed by fruit trees and bush. An XXOS garage held car, trailer, quad bike. A pair of working gumboots stood by the front door.

That door opened, and I was startled. The figure grinning at me was stooped and seamed. The hand that gripped mine was hard but strangely tentative. (He’d broken a coupla fingers when a fence-strainer jammed once; couldn’t be bothered seeing a quack.) The voice was a smoker’s rasp. “Shit, you’re taller than I remember.”

His partner June was out at her part-time local council job, “knockin’ some sense into the buggers”. She’d told Doug to look after me properly, so he brought through a plate of her muffins; brewed two mugs of bituminous coffee.

Talk came easily. Bloody brilliant idea of mine to make contact. He reminisced about some of the newsletter names, the teachers we’d had. He’d always meant to go to a reunion; never got round to it.

He smoked all the time: skinny, noxious roll-your-owns. He didn’t ask if I minded; that wasn’t relevant. This was his domain, and he was paying me a compliment by acting like he usually did. He coughed occasionally; laughed with a background wheeze.

He took me outside to see his orchard. Plums, peaches, nectarines, pears. Most of the trees were younger than him; after all, he’d been here for 55 years.

He told me about it as we strolled. “Been plannin’ to do Ag Science at Massey. Then the old man got crook; I came home to help him; never left.” He’d married a local girl, who died a fair while back; he didn’t say any more about that.

He was happy. I saw that almost instantly. And fulfilled. Five-plus decades in this little town, and he was replete with friends, activities, issues. His son-in-law ran most of the farm now. Doug gave him a hand sometimes (translation: told him what he should be doing). He didn’t boast, but contentment lay beneath all he said. He touched his trees as we walked; pointed at distant hills where he used to hunt till his useless bloody knee gave out. Four… five cars or trucks passed while we were outside; all of them tooted.

He wanted to know what I’d done; grinned when I told him about my wife Beth. “She’s a gun with words, too, eh? Good on yer.”

The Great World didn’t interest him much. It was vapour trails in the sky – remote and evanescent. But local as in village politics engrossed him. “Take ya down the pub, next time ya come. It’s a bloody debating society down there.”

June came home, neat and grey-haired, found us in the gargantuan vegetable patch, where Doug was prodding an aubergine. “Like to try somethin’ new each year.” She checked I wasn’t condescending to him, hugged me when I left, laden with sweetcorn and broccoli. I drove away smiling.

Beth and I saw them three or four times over the next few years. She liked his utter lack of affectation, his pleasure in our visits. (“Y’made my day.”) She even managed half a cup of his coffee when June wasn’t there one time.

I mustn’t sentimentalise him. Local bodies and government departments brought out his inner redneck. “I gave the buggers an earful and walked out” was a phrase I heard too often. Left-wing parties needed a kick up the arse – meanwhile, he was being a de facto union advocate for a sharemilker getting a raw deal. The Greens? “Don’t get me started on those pricks.” One of his several iterations of this came as we walked the stand of native trees he’d planted to replace a grazing paddock. I never could think of a reply.

He hadn’t been out of New Zealand, hadn’t been out of the North Island, I suspect. But then, Jane Austen’s Emma had never seen the sea, and Austen’s “families in a country village” were enough to keep Doug full and rewarded as well.

He was Ngāti Pākehā, yet had become a district kaumātua. Artefacts and taonga were brought to him for advice or safekeeping. Whānau, even iwi disputes had been settled in his living room. He didn’t say this; I heard it from June. He had little te reo (“English is bloody hard enough”), but he knew the whakapapa of everyone nearby. Troubled tamariki sometimes worked on his farm, learned skills, got a boot up the bum – his terminology again – if they slacked.

He was delivering a load of his fruit and veges to a family one day. I went along for the ride. Just outside town, we turned into a road of poplars and magpies, via a clattery wooden bridge. “Planted a few trees back there,” Doug said, nodding at what looked like 100m of flourishing riparian greenery.

Ahead of us, a Māori man was checking his mailbox. Doug slowed, yelled “G’day, ya black bastard!” This is interesting, I thought; I’m going to die by a rural roadside. The other party grinned, and replied “Hey, honky!”

He never did get me down to the pub. A mutual friend had told me of Doug’s consumption, and the times he’d lost his licence, or the local cop had given him yet another warning.

When the pub and those roll-your-owns finally caught up with him, it wasn’t an easy dying. His leathery body resisted hard, till the final weeks seemed to bring their own quiet and analgesic.

I couldn’t get to the funeral. Ironically (I hear Doug’s wheezy laugh), our own health issues prevented it. But that mutual friend told me how the church was thronged, how dozens stood outside. Waiata were sung; a korowai draped his coffin as it was carried through the gate to burial beside a big macrocarpa. “A lot of guys were crying,” said our friend on the phone, before choking up himself.

Doug got no media obituary. If there had been any, I suspect he’d have asked “What the fuck for?” Hardly anyone outside his community knew him. Everyone inside that community did.

A limited life? By most criteria. Not by his, and I never doubted that fulfilment, that contentment I’ve mentioned. “He’s a happy man,” Beth said once, and she (of course, dear) was right. My heart lifted each time I made the turn-off into his little settlement. Did he do the William Blake thing and see heaven in a wild flower? He’d more likely have rooted the cheeky bugger out, especially if it was in among his aubergines.

He gave us a dwarf kōwhai one time. I see it each time I go out our back door. Yes, it makes me remember Doug. It also reminds me that I never found a riposte to his insults against the Greens.

First published May 18, 2024

Keep going!
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Should I swim here? (Image: Tina Tiller)

SocietyDecember 26, 2024

A trip to the beach with the poo detectives

a jar with a tick or a cross and a watery background
Should I swim here? (Image: Tina Tiller)

Summer reissue: In recent years, checking online for a green tick has become a necessary habit for Aucklanders heading to the beach. Shanti Mathias tags along with the team tasked with testing the water for pollution – and figuring out how to stop it. 

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“We get to be poo detectives,” Stephen Ashley says. This is how the water quality specialist at Auckland Council explains his job to other people. His idea of a good – although often gross – puzzle to solve at work is someone else’s idea of very bad news for their after-work swim plans.

The sun is shining and the sea is sparkling at Castor Bay, a beach next to Milford on Auckland’s North Shore, but Ashley, a lean Pākehā man with a practical wide-brimmed hat, is more interested in what’s going on at a microscopic level: how much bacteria might this innocent stream outlet pipe be sloshing across the beach, currently mainly occupied by squawking gulls and a single swimmer? And where did those pathogens come from?

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Castor Bay, today’s sampling site (Photo: Shanti Mathias)

His colleague Martin Neale, Safeswim’s technical lead, bends down in the sand and starts drawing a branching diagram with his finger. “The contamination might be here, or here,” he says, circling nodes in the branches. “It’s like a process of elimination.” 

Ashley shows me the more professional equivalent of the branching diagram – an app used by Auckland Council’s Safe Networks team, which monitors water quality in streams, watercourses and the stormwater network to identify the sources of contamination. 

This monitoring is vital work, because Auckland’s beaches are frequently so polluted, mostly by human waste, that swimming in the water poses a danger to human health. Last year, a major sewage pipe burst discharged thousands of litres of raw sewage into the water in Parnell, rendering most inner-city beaches dangerous for weeks. (“Seeing it caused me to lose a bit of faith in humanity, to be honest,” Ashley mutters). But most of the contamination is less dramatic: rain can cause wastewater and stormwater to mix in older sewage systems, so many beaches are reliably unhealthy after rain. 

A screenshot from Safeswim on a good day

Safeswim, a collaboration between the Auckland and Northland Regional councils, Watercare, Te Whatu Ora, Surf Lifesaving NZ and Drowning Prevention Auckland, is one part of the solution: to stop people from getting sick, simply provide advice about when not to go in the water! The app and website use a mix of sampling and an algorithmic model to alert people in Auckland and Northland about the water quality at their local beach with a colour code system. Green means a beach is clean and the risk is low, red means there’s a high risk, and black means there’s a direct wastewater overflow affecting the water. 

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A stream outlet at Castor Bay – a prime suspect for any contamination (Photo: Shanti Mathias)

Ashley’s detective work – part of the council’s Safe Networks programme – is another piece of the puzzle. If a beach is contaminated when it hasn’t been raining, it’s particularly concerning, but it’s also an opportunity to isolate the cause. They take samples at every branch of a stormwater pipe, or their more old-fashioned equivalents, streams, to isolate the source of pollution. It might be one particular house or outlet pipe that can then be fixed. If there are consistent quality issues that they can’t explain, then they will put the beach under a long-term health risk alert on the Safeswim website.

“It’s nice when it’s an issue that can be fixed quickly,” Neale says. More structural problems – like the ageing water infrastructure – take longer, although solutions like the $1.5bn Central Interceptor pipe should help. Meola and Te Auaunga creeks in Central Auckland have long-term alerts, for instance, although that should change with the Central Interceptor. 

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Neale draws a diagram in the sand to explain the wastewater investigation process (Photo: Shanti Mathias)

But before an investigation can take place, the water needs to be sampled. Ashley has already changed into his sand shoes and is walking to the edge of the water grasping a little plastic jar. He takes note of the number of dogs and people on the beach, the weather conditions and the birds, all factors that can contribute to the water quality reading. 

The Safeswim team tries to take samples at times when people actually swim, so at muddy beaches there’s not much point wading across hundreds of metres of sediment to get to the water at low tide. They have “runs” of beaches, 10 to 20 sites that one of the small sampling team might get to in a day, although some beaches – like those on the islands of the Hauraki Gulf – present more of a logistical challenge. Waiheke is doable with the ferry, a contractor on Great Barrier couriers samples to the lab on a plane, but it’s much more time consuming to get to the other islands. Ashley’s favourite runs are on Waiheke and along the rural beaches from Te Ārai Point north of Auckland. 

“I’ll just demonstrate a sample for you,” he says now, splashing into the water, aiming for about knee depth. He scoops water into the jar, then screws on the lid. When he’s back on the beach, we inspect it together. There’s not much to see, as it’s perfectly clear. “It looks good enough to drink!” Martin jokes, then adds more sombrely: “I’ve seen samples like that come back from the labs and been astounded by the numbers.” Ashley did his masters in water-borne pathogens that affect mice. “I found that it had to get to 10 million bacteria [in a sample of this size] before it would be visible to the naked eye.” The swimming guidelines say that there is some risk once there are more than 260 E. coli in 100ml of water, so clear water is no guarantor of safety.

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Martin Neale (left) and Stephen Ashley, with a water sample (Photo: Shanti Mathias)

After taking a sample, it’s placed in a chilly bin so more bacteria don’t grow and throw off the results. Then it’s taken to the lab where the sample is tested, which takes about 24 hours; the result then needs to be checked by one of the scientists before it can be compared to the national healthy swimming guidelines and fed into the Safeswim’s database. At Castor Bay, Ashley tells me the beach was sampled two days previously but the result isn’t in yet.

This might sound slow, but the system doesn’t rely on sampling alone. The data gathered at Castor Bay is a tiny fraction of the amount of information that is required to run the Safeswim website. “Taking a sample once a week doesn’t give you a very accurate read,” Neale says. “We’ve made a huge investment in sampling – but it’s more important to look for patterns.” 

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Stephen Ashley with a fresh water sample (Photo: Shanti Mathias)

They need at least 50 to 100 samples from a beach, in a range of weather, before they can include it on the website. Beaches get their status based on past patterns, as well as sensors that detect rainfall around the region; it could be that whenever there is more than ten millilitres of rain in an area, a pipe leading to the beach will overflow, so a warning will appear on Safeswim before it’s been sampled. 

Tide movements, currents, levels of rainfall, watersheds and locations of stormwater drains: these are all built into the Safeswim model to provide accurate water quality forecasting, faster than any lab alone could deliver. Neale calls it the “best available information on water quality and safety”.

Safeswim gets plenty of petitions to add new beaches, but they need to be able to accurately predict water quality in addition to having a base of information from sampling before a location can be added, which is why lots of samples are necessary first. Watercare, which manages Auckland’s water network, works closely with the Safeswim team, and has sensors to detect sewage overflows. 

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Meola Creek, which has a permanent quality warning, in polluted, flooded condition after rain in February 2023. (Photo: Shanti Mathias)

For the most part, contamination is predictable. Neale shows me a sheet of data for Castor Bay, dating back to 2019: there have been 11 times when bacteria levels have exceeded guidelines. Two of those were during dry weather, rather than as a direct effect of rain – the kind of results that prompt urgent second samples to check results and one of Ashley’s poo investigations. 

As water activists have pointed out, simply telling people when it’s unsafe to swim can’t fix the chronic contamination on beaches. But does Safeswim actually change how people behave? That’s the hope: signs on beaches are usually ignored or taken down, but if people check Safeswim before leaving, it might divert them to one of the healthier beaches. 

According to research from Auckland Council in 2023, 84% of people said Safeswim impacts whether they get in the water, and there has been a 134% increase in visitors from 2020 to 2022. “No one will physically stop you from getting in the water: [Safeswim]’s just advisory,” Neale says. “But people tell me all the time that that they go to Safeswim to select the best beach to go swimming at.”

First published February 9, 2024.