Image: Tina Tiller
Image: Tina Tiller

KaiAugust 26, 2023

A beginner’s guide to the deep-fried deliciousness of pakora

Image: Tina Tiller
Image: Tina Tiller

India’s deep-fried delicacy has many different names and many different variations, all of which hit the spot if you’re craving something, hot, spicy, crispy and carby. Perzen Patel shares some tips for making them at home.

I joke to my friends that I’m like Pavlov’s dog. There’s something coded into my brain where the minute it rains, I start craving deep-fried food. Not fried chicken. Or fish and chips. But Indian deep-fried goodies. The ones I grew up indulging in, pakora.

Given how much it rains in Auckland, I’ll leave you to guess what this hard coding has done to my waistline. 

I get it. Fried goodies are not for everyone (luckily, those people are not my friends). But if recent bouts of non-stop rain have got you craving some hot, spicy, crispy, carby snacks, then let me introduce you to the world of pakora.

In India there are many names for pakora – pakoda, bhajji, bhajiya, bhaja, chop and kebab are just some of the names India’s many communities use for them. So much more exciting than “fritter”, no? There are so many pakora varieties that I’ve come to believe you can pakora just about anything. And why wouldn’t you? It’s a quick and easy way to add something hot and yummy to your meal – especially if said meal is a bowl of soup or salad. The best way to eat vegetables in my book.

Most commonly, pakora is made using a batter of chickpea flour (besan), fresh ginger, turmeric, coriander powder, chilli powder, dried fenugreek, a touch of fresh coriander and salt. You then add water to create a thick batter and you’re on your way to pakora goodness. 

You’ve likely already heard of onion and potato bhajji. So delicious as they are, I want to introduce you to five of my other favourite pakora goodies. 

Corn, spinach and paneer pakora

For the impulsive cook

If you want your pakoras to come together in a jiffy, this is the version to start with because it all comes together in one bowl. Mix frozen corn, a few handfuls of baby spinach and grate in paneer to add creaminess. Now add in your flour, spices and water to create a thick batter. Simply plop big spoonfuls into a saucepan of hot oil and your Pakora will be ready in a few minutes. I love making these when I have small amounts of produce I need to finish up from the fridge. The spinach, corn and cheese combo is a classic but you can follow the same method for a combo of your choice too.

The corn, spinach and paneer pakora mix, and the finished product (Photos: Perzen Patel)

Moong dal pakora

For the protein lover

If you drink protein smoothies on the regular, add some protein to your pakoras by making them with lentils. To make your batter, soak and rinse yellow mung lentils. Drain them completely in a colander before grinding them with a couple dried red chillies and very little water to get a coarse mixture. Spice up the mixture with finely sliced onion, ginger and garlic paste, garam masala, fresh coriander and salt. Fry bite-sized balls of the mixture in hot oil until they are crispy golden. Enjoy with a curry of your choice or use them as fillings for wraps or as a school lunchbox filler.

Moong dal pakora (Photo: Perzen Patel)

Bread pakora

For those recovering from a hangover (or for when it’s rained non-stop)

What is not to love about a potato and cheese sandwich coated in batter and fried. My favourite memory of bread pakora is picking some up as a parcel at Churchgate Station (where the Western Railway line for Mumbai begins) when Mum and I did weekend trips to Nallasopara, a far-flung suburb of Mumbai where we owned a weekend home. The train journey was over an hour long, and the pakora wrapped in a day-old newspaper kept me occupied for several stations. Even though bread pakora is super easy to make at home, deep-frying a whole sandwich can get messy. But when it’s raining non-stop and we’re trapped at home, bread pakora keeps our family happy. 

Bread pakora (Photo: Perzen Patel)

Kheema kebabs

For the meat lovers

While I don’t discriminate between my vegetable pakoras, I am partial to more meaty options. Essentially, these are deep-fried meatballs. You might have had Swedish lamb meatballs or Turkish kebabs, but these kebabs are different. Like the exotic cousin who comes to visit you every summer. My grandpa’s recipe uses lamb, potatoes and a bunch of spices, though you can also make these with beef, chicken or pork mince and they all taste good. Because I love eating them so much, I’ve moved to cooking these in the air fryer and they come out just as crispy and tasty. 

Kheema kebabs (Photo: Perzen Patel)

Begun bhaja

For those who dislike a thick batter

It was my Bengali business partner in India who introduced me to the joys of bhaja – small morsels of fried goodness you serve alongside a dahl or an afternoon meal. My favourite is the begun bhaja made with eggplant, which come together in minutes. Simply sprinkle thin slices of eggplant with turmeric powder, chilli powder, salt and a pinch of sugar. Allow the eggplant to marinate for a few minutes before coating each slice in some rice flour and shallow frying them until tender. Enjoy them with a bowl of dahl and a spoon of spicy mango pickle. 

‘Become a member to help us deliver news and features that matter most to Aotearoa.’
Lyric Waiwiri-Smith
— Politics reporter
Keep going!
The burgers (Image: Tina Tiller)
The burgers (Image: Tina Tiller)

KaiAugust 22, 2023

All the Indian-inspired WOAP burgers, reviewed and rated

The burgers (Image: Tina Tiller)
The burgers (Image: Tina Tiller)

Seven reviews, seven ratings and a few tips for those making Indian-adjacent burgers.

Wellington on a Plate (WOAP) had its first run in 2009 and has grown into the largest culinary festival in the southern hemisphere. Burger Wellington is one of its highlights. The competition started in 2010, offering just 30 burgers. In 2023, over 200 burgers are competing for the top spot. This year, Burger Wellington (presented by Garage Project) is running from August 11-27. 

WOAP has always featured several Asian-inspired burgers but they usually draw from Japanese or Korean cuisines. Following last year’s Dabeli win, more Indian-inspired burgers have been entered into Burger Wellington. 

Some burgers on this list are inherently Indian while others draw loosely from the cuisine. Four of the seven burgers are vegetarian, which makes sense since a large percentage of India is vegetarian. None of them were consumed alongside their recommended Garage Project matches because I’m just not a beer gal. 

But I am a gal who hails from Mumbai, Maharashtra; a city where the residents live to eat and the street food is world famous. In performing my sacred duty to my South Asian community, here are all of the Indian-inspired WOAP burgers, reviewed. 

Halkatraz by Chaat Street by Vaibhav Vishen 

$18

7/10 

A portmanteau of “Alkatraz” and the Hindi slang word “halkat” (degenerate), the Halkatraz is a burger that is proud to be vegetarian. At $18 a piece, it’s the most affordable burger on this list. 

This was my first jackfruit burger so I had both curiosity and reservations. The jackfruit wasn’t shaped into a patty but held a similar texture to pulled meat. Jackfruit retains moisture the same way that mushrooms do, resulting in a juicy filling that holds its own and isn’t simply trying to be a meat substitute. It was seasoned well but the flavour overpowered some of the other elements. 

The green chutney was nice and pickled vegetables (onion, carrots, and what I assume was daikon) added acidity and bite. With its soft sesame milk bun and succulent fillings, Halkatraz was a bit slippery and messy to eat. Chaat is often served with crunchy toppings, like fried chickpeas, spicy boondi or crispy sev. If one of those textural elements was added into the Halkatraz, it might have prevented the same-same mouthfeel. 

Butter Me Up by Dirty Burger, Upper Hutt 

$19

8/10  

Butter Me Up is an elevated Indian-ified fried chicken burger, and I’m so here for it. 

I loved the generous usage of makhani sauce. It’s a tomato-based sauce used in many curries that is creamy and buttery (makhan = butter, hence the name Butter Me Up). Raw onions are usually too pungent and astringent for my liking but the onions in this burger were mild enough to handle and seasoned well with Kashmiri red chilli powder. I enjoyed the addition of chaat masala into the fried chicken, which had a good crispy dredge. 

All the components of Butter Me Up meshed really well together, but I was left wanting a heavier drizzle of the mint mayo. I also wished there were more fresh vegetables and acidity to add some lightness and brightness to the burger. Dirty Burger Upper Hutt operates mainly as a takeaway and I’m happy to report their burger retained its crunch even after the half hour drive back to my home. 

Goan Chicken Ros Pao by One80 Restaurant

$29

9/10 

The Goan Chicken Ros Pao wasn’t just a burger, it was a complete dish. 

It’s a twist on a popular street food served in Goa, where a light green chicken curry is served with an omelette and bread. One80 has presented it in burger form and added onion yoghurt, pickled onions, smoked havarti cheese, and a whole pickled chilli. The burger was served with a side of shoestring fries, lightly (too lightly, in my opinion) seasoned with vindaloo spice and a chilli-garlic-coriander mayo. 

Traditionally it’s a messy dish to eat, with ros (curry) often running down your hands. To make sure diners get the complete experience without sacrificing comfort, ros is cooked into the chicken and extra ros is provided on the side in a jug. I took sips between my bites and it was delicious, albeit a little mild. While the juicy chicken was the star, my favourite element had to be the poe bun, a bread that reflects the Portuguese influence in Goan cuisine. Made of 100% New Zealand wheat, it was structurally stable enough to soak up the ros without getting soggy or falling apart. 

I appreciated the attention to detail in this dish and how well balanced the flavours were. If I had to pick a miss-able element, I’d go with the sauce for the fries. While mayo was tasty, I preferred to dip my fries in the jug of ros. One80 was generous enough to serve my table multiple complementary starters while we waited for our burgers. But a heads up for anyone with a large appetite – the Goan Chicken Ros Pao is on the smaller side so I’d recommend ordering a side to go with it. 

‘Become a member and help us keep local, independent journalism thriving.’
Alice Neville
— Deputy editor

Chat-Pata by The Jaya’s Wine Bar 

$25 

8/10

Fans of the winning Dabeli burger from 2022 will enjoy the Chat-Pata.

The patty is an aloo tikki (aloo = potato, tikki = patty) which is tasty and well-seasoned. 

The green chilli in the tikki slowly built heat at the back of my mouth, making it the only burger on this list to actually be spicy. The crumbed coating of the tikki is crispy and a bit hard but provides structure to an otherwise mushy patty. 

The potato milk bun has spinach in it, making it a vibrant deep green to emulate the leaf plates that aloo tikki is sometimes served in. The tamarind chutney is the right level of sweet and the yoghurt is deliciously creamy. There’s also spiced chickpeas, radish, carrot, beetroot, ginger, green chilli salad… Chat-Pata has a lot of elements to it. Not all of them can be individually distinguished, but they do work really well together. 

I liked the concept of onion rings as an accompaniment. But the burger itself was light and needed a substantial side to make it filling, yet the Chat-Pata only came with three rings. 

Batata Wada from The Butcher and Brewer 

$24

5/10

While the burger is named Batata Wada (batata = potato, wada = croquette), it’s actually a vada pav (vada = croquette, pav = bread). You may think I’m being pedantic but the dish is native to Maharashtra, so this is personal. 

Instead of making one big batata vada, the burger contained three small vadas. I liked that the chickpea coating wasn’t too thick or thin, but just right. Typically, vada pav contains a spicy wada and is served with one spicy chutney, one sweet chutney and a neutral bun. This Batata Wada has a sweet brioche bun, a sweet tamarind chutney, a tasty but mild green chutney and a mild vada. The balance was thrown off which resulted in an unintentionally sweet burger that lacked punch. It was also served with a side of straight cut fries that only had masala on a third of them. 

Ind-ulge by Sushil’s Musclechef Kitchen and Cafe 

$28

8/10 

I love lamb but in very specific scenarios so, much like the jackfruit burger, I had my reservations. But one bite in, my scepticism vanished. Ind-ulge is a gorgeous burger. The slow-cooked lamb is perfectly spiced and melts in your mouth. The savouriness of the lamb is balanced with the sweet mango chutney. I enjoyed the raita and wished there was more of it. There were, however, ample fresh veggies in the burger, as the cafe is focussed on health and nutrition. 

Because the lamb filling was so soft and moist, the milk bun fell apart while I was eating the burger and I would’ve preferred a denser bun. There also wasn’t nearly enough masala on the “masala” fries, which also lacked salt. There’s a pattern here, people. If you season your fries with something special, please be generous with that seasoning.

Hands down, my favourite part of this dish was the pale yellow saffron aioli. Saffron is a delicate flavour but Sushil’s managed to infuse it into the aioli so effectively, I’d like to buy a bottle of the stuff. 

Bombay Bhaji by The Jolly Pub & Kitchen

$26

4/10

There are no bad burgers on this list, this is just the least good out of the seven. 

The mixed vegetable bhaji was tasty but a bit too salty and a bit too greasy. There was no crumb or coating to hold the bhaji together so it didn’t retain its structure but did retain enough oil to make me a wee bit queasy. The two most flavoursome elements were the Kewpie mayo slaw and the bhaji. I couldn’t taste the coriander chutney much. The “spicy” mascarpone wasn’t spicy but was yummy, and the blood turnips added a fun pop of colour to the burger. 

The pumpkin brioche didn’t hold up well with the bhaji. There’s another pattern here, folks. If your burger has a soft filling, try not to pair it with a soft bun. While I’m generally a sucker for soft and sweet breads, they don’t always make for structurally sound burger buns. I was also disappointed that the fries and aioli were an afterthought of a side, as nothing elevated them or tied them to the dish. 

Burger Wellington runs until August 27.