Chef Giulio Sturla divulges his tastiest secrets in Lyttelton, from marvellous margaritas to begin the evening, to perfect pizzas fired from an old shipping container, to a goat curry that’s got the town talking.
On Lyttelton’s main street, cradled by the port hills and overlooking the glittering Whakaraupō Harbour, you will often find chef Giulio Sturla in the test kitchen directly beneath his apartment conjuring fantastical dishes out of seaweeds and mushrooms and pinecones and other ingredients foraged from around the harbour and surrounding hills.
Born in Chile, raised in Ecuador and based in Aotearoa since 2008, Sturla opened his first restaurant, Roots, in Lyttelton in 2013. Before closing in 2019, it was considered one of the country’s best restaurants. Since 2020 he has run Mapu (reviewed here by The Spinoff’s Alex Casey) from a compact 20sqm space in the port town. The restaurant is run entirely by Sturla, with no opening hours, no menu and seating just six people at a time. Alongside it, he also runs Mapu at Home, a private chef service that takes his singular cooking across the country, and the world.
Here’s where Sturla goes for coffee, margaritas, celebratory group meals, scenic fish and chips, and everything in between.
Three words that sum up the food in Lyttelton: Community, diverse, Kiwiana.
My most controversial food opinion about Lyttelton: It’s the home of the best pies in New Zealand (more on that further down).
Everyone has a dining out pet peeve. Mine is: I really dislike when service is not generous.
The best restaurant in Lyttelton is: Bomba Pizzeria.
Why I love Bomba: It’s a family run business, and the pizza dough is perfect: fluffy where it should be and crispy and thin all around. They started out of a caravan and have moved to a more permanent and comfortable spot. Their location now, in the middle of town, is iconic and the building is made out of repurposed shipping containers – very much post-earthquake style.
My go-to order is: Anything spicy. Specifically the nduja pizza when it’s available on the specials list.
When I’m craving something cheap and cheerful I head to: Everest Indian Restaurant. I love the tandoori prawns and cumin rice.
The most underrated local gem is: Wunderbar. It can be a surprise for many, but if you go often you will get to meet the locals and will get to learn how to have the most fun night in town.
A recent food discovery I can’t stop talking about: Fish and Chips at Otoromiro Hotel. The view from the garden tables is incredible and if the sun is out you will never want to leave.
A place I’ve been dying to try is: The Commoners Bar. They recently changed management and the gossip around town is that they still do an incredible goat curry.
Celebrating with a group? Book a table at: Arbour Woodfired Pizza and their very long table to fit a lot of people, it feels warm (pizza oven always on) and natural light coming through the ceiling.
Pub or bar of choice: Civil and Naval. For me it’s the best selection of drinks in Lyttelton. Order a margarita around 6pm and then see what life brings… happy people, great bar snacks, sometimes on the weekends there’s even yakitori.
The BYO I keep going back to: Mapu Test Kitchen.
For a late-night food fix you’ll find me at: Super. If people are out, Super will be open. Snacks and cocktails are a must.
An ideal date spot would be: Otoromiro Hotel. If you want to impress someone with a great view and cosy vibes, this is the place. It is a hotel so dinner can turn into breakfast the next morning.
Make sure to order: Anything from the specials board.
Lyttelton’s best…
Breakfast: Lyttelton Coffee Company. Any sandwich from the counter, two long blacks and you’re good to go.
Coffee: Spooky Boogie. They roast their coffee on site, they also sell art, vinyl and bits and pieces for all ages. They have garden chairs at the back – the secret spot during summer.
Sandwich: BLT at Lyttelton Coffee Company.
Noodles: Super. Sometimes they have ramen on the menu. Sadly it’s only sometimes, but worth it when you find it. Especially on a rainy day.
Fish and chips: Otoromiro Hotel. Big pieces of fish, nicely cooked potatoes and a salad. Plus the most amazing views of the harbour.
Bowl of soup: Nama Sushi. Miso soup done well. I grew up in Ecuador with fish soup for breakfast so it’s a comforting thing for me to do.
Bread: Bellbird Bakery bread at Harbour Co-op. The fresh bread is delivered daily and sold at the Co-op. Most of the Bellbird selection from their flagship bakery is available, like their famous almond croissant (until sold out).
Baked treat: The pies at Hope River Pies. Everything is made from scratch by people that live in the community. I especially love their Portuguese pie with smoky sausage. It’s not available all the time, but go anyway because they have like 20 pies on their menu.
For a serious sweet tooth, head to: Glamour Cake. Go for the crazy donuts. Out of this world.
If you’re after spice, make a beeline for: Super.
The place to go if you want to feel virtuous/ healthy: Harbour Co-op.
The dairy with the best lolly selection: MetroMart Portside. My youngest daughter’s favourite for sour gummies.
A little local treat that always cheers me up: Caramel hearts from She Universe sold at the Harbour Co-op. These are heart shaped chocolates covered in a thin layer of caramel. You’ll spot them on their counter.
A perfect place to linger over a drink: Civil and Naval with a margarita in hand. FYI: they have mezcal, so you can swap that in instead of tequila.
My favourite local hospo personality: The whole team at Lyttelton Coffee Company. They are a bunch of young people, who are so committed. Most of them live in Lyttelton so I always see them around town.
For outstanding people watching, go to: Eruption Brewing. They have two great single couches right outside their shop with a small table in between for beer glasses. Try them out and you’ll see why this is the best place to sit on the street.
The place I’m most likely to bump into someone I know: Lyttelton Coffee Company.
A local spot I wish we could bring back from the dead is: Monster Yakitori Bar. I went there several times during the first three months when I moved to Lyttelton from Auckland in 2010. Then the earthquake happened and it was gone. It was a tiny place with great music – great vibes all the time.
A restaurant I would love to relocate to Lyttelton: I dream of a great food store stocking essentials from all over the world – like a gourmet mini market where I can get ingredients and build my picnic bag to take away and enjoy by the water in the marina or over the hill in the many walking tracks around Lyttelton.
The place I return to again and again: Civil and Naval.
Why I love eating in Lyttelton: It’s never, ever boring
