a stripey pink, purply and aquamarine background with three polatoid pictures, one of a kid in blue polypro, one of a woman in a canyon wearing stripes, and one of people in stripes gathering around a table to pay boardgames
Stripey polyprop, L-R: In Utah in 1999, in a Kathmandu promo pic in 2014, in the Himalayas in 2007 (pictures courtesy Emily Lane, Kathmandu, Kaaren Mathias respectively)

SocietyJuly 8, 2024

Rainbow warmth and garish colours: When did stripy polyprop disappear?

a stripey pink, purply and aquamarine background with three polatoid pictures, one of a kid in blue polypro, one of a woman in a canyon wearing stripes, and one of people in stripes gathering around a table to pay boardgames
Stripey polyprop, L-R: In Utah in 1999, in a Kathmandu promo pic in 2014, in the Himalayas in 2007 (pictures courtesy Emily Lane, Kathmandu, Kaaren Mathias respectively)

New Zealand used to be a country of vibrant synthetic striped polyprop. Then we got boring – and discovered merino. 

It’s full of holes now, and getting saggy, but Emily Lane refuses to get rid of her favourite zip-up polyprop jumper. “I got it before I went overseas for my PhD, so it’s at least a quarter-century old,” she says fondly. “It’s falling to bits because I’ve had it so long.” 

She insists on keeping the decrepit garment because she can’t find anything that would aptly replace it. Browse any New Zealand outdoor retailer – and Lane has – and it’s basically impossible to find what she wants. She’s looking for narrow stripes, thoroughly synthetic fabric and, most importantly, garish colours. Blues and purples, greens and oranges, yellow and aquamarine. “It’s getting harder and harder in life to get stripy polypro – it’s all sombre colours,” she says. 

When Lane first started getting into outdoor adventures, at uni in the 90s, the stripes were everywhere. “I was a bit of a dirtbag in uni, and the polypro was the cheapest, but I would have chosen it anyway, the stripes are such awesome style,” says the Christchurch-based scientist and outdoor enthusiast. Ten or 15 years ago, stripy polyprop (also known as polypro) was ubiquitous around Aotearoa. Wintry school camps resembled a parade of gaudy zebras, weekend dog-walkers in the suburbs likely had blue stripes protruding from their jacket cuffs, and of course tramping huts featured people of all stripes – quite literally. 

a brown-skinned, gormless looking small child with bright red plastic clips in her short hair, looks at the camera. Big himalayan mountains are in the background, and she is wearing a bright blue striped synthetic long sleeve top
The author rocking striped polyprop aged around seven. (Photo: Kaaren Mathias)

I have memories of small snotty-nosed friends wearing head-to-toe stripy polyprop in all seasons in Auckland, slinging polyprop tops on the coat hooks in the middle of winter at my primary school, unwrapping new polyprop sets from aunties at Christmas. There are dozens of photos of me and my siblings wearing stripy polyprop in the chilly Indian mountains where we lived as children, although I tended to call it “prolypo” due to having some confusion around syllables.

It’s less obvious why the polyprop clothing was so stripy, specifically: after all, the colour has no impact on its function to keep you warm. “It kind of says ‘hey, I’m in the outdoors, I don’t have to be straitlaced’,” she says. Jean Mansill, a life member of the Auckland University Tramping Club, agrees. “In the 1990s, wearing [stripes] was part of having fun – now outdoor gear has gone from people who actually do stuff to tourists who want to look the part.” That most notorious of New Zealand looks – wearing rainbow polyprop under a t-shirt or shorts – has become a rarer sight in the hills.  

Browse Bivouac Outdoor, Kathmandu and Macpac, and the stripes are few and far between. Kathmandu sells a broad green and black stripe, Macpac has no stripes in its synthetic thermal layers at all, Bivouac sells some grey stripes but nothing else, the Warehouse has some pale blue and pink stripes. There’s nothing truly multi-coloured or zany. Nor is it reflected in tramping media: a flip through the latest Alpine Journal reveals a beautiful mediation on sexism in alpine sport and a project helping climbers and mana whenua engage meaningfully on the topic of what to do with human waste in the mountains, but no striped polyprop. The best place to get zany polyprop now seems to be StripesGear.com, a Canadian website which says its products (including the coveted mixed-stripe garments) are made in New Zealand – but shipping from Canada pushes the price of a single garment up to nearly $100.

“I still remember my first striped polypro – I might still have it,” reminisces Mansill. It was purple, pink and navy, and she wore the stripes through her first “snow school” trip in the early 1990s, learning mountaineering skills. She remembers being instructed on the merits of polyprop base layers, and told it was good to have at least two sets so that one could dry. Polyprop was light, dried fast, and – when she first encountered it – almost always stripy. She still wears some of her first polyprop sets – admittedly now with some holes – when sailing or biking, anywhere her clothes might be “hammered”.

What is polyprop? It’s short for “polypropylene” – the fibre has become shorthand for the garments made from it. Like other synthetic fabrics, polypropylene is a kind of plastic, made from oil. It might feel warm and fuzzy, but polyprop is the same material as any plastic labelled “5” on its resin codes to go in recycling. The colours are part of the plastic the thread is made from, rather than being dyed. Like other synthetics, polypropylene sheds microplastics – miniscule and featherlight fibres that are now so ubiquitous they’ve been found in drinking water, breastmilk, the bottom of the Mariana Trench and the Antarctic Ocean.  

Synthetic fabric became increasingly common in the second half of the 20th century – but for a long time, it wasn’t used to provided warmth. As we talk, Lane flips through some childhood photos: on her early adventures, she wore wool singlets and jumpers, not synthetic, bright polyprop. Through the 1980s, synthetic polar fleece fabric was developed from polyester, another plastic fibre. It gradually became widely available as a lighter replacement for wool. Polypropylene thermal layers made from stretchy knitted fabric were common by the 1990s, when Lane and Mansill started tramping. These fibres were part of a wholesale transformation of tramping gear, with light, synthetic, breathable equipment making outdoor activities more comfortable and new feats of exploration and endurance possible.

a family sitting at a table, two adults and two kids, all with big families. Mum emily is wearing a ratty stripey polypro shirt at the back right, and daugther ngaire is wearing, blue, pink and purple stripes at the front left
Emily Lane (back right), whose brother attended her 21st in striped polyprop, describes herself as being from a “striped polyprop kind of family” (Image: courtesy Emily Lane)

So why has polyprop and its funky stripes faded from popularity? Maybe it’s simply the market’s invisible hand: Wilderness Magazine editor Alistair Hall acknowledges that many people prefer solid colours, and he hasn’t seen stripy synthetics come across his desk for a product review for a while. “People are more conscious of colour – I get lots of feedback about that in the monthly gear reviews,” he says. Smartphones and shifting cultural forces made people more aware of how they looked when outdoors. “You used to have to work hard to get the boring [polyprop], now it’s all I find,” says Lane. 

Kathmandu, one-time purveyor of stripes galore, now experiences “huge demand” for black thermals, according to head of product Karinda Robinson. “Lots of our team have memories of wearing striped thermals on school camps in the 80s and 90s,” she says. “While lots of us love the stripe, the market in next-to-skin layers is evolving, with solid colours dominating as a more versatile choice.” 

Polyprop has downsides, too. There’s the microplastic shedding, for one, and, like all plastics, polypro will take hundreds of years to fully degrade under natural conditions. It also tends to hold on to the smell from being worn close on people’s bodies. Lane has experienced the damp and sweaty polypro smell. “After a while it soaks in the stink.” More recently, the fabric has started being treated with antibacterial chemicals, which Hall says “means you can wear it for a couple of days without being a nuisance to your hut-mates.” 

a plain pink background and famile model wearing black pants, a dark blue shirt and a light green Kathmandu beanie
Kathmandu’s current thermal range promotes lots of plain thermals, but few stripy ones (Image:supplied)

But the main reason that base layers are less synthetic now is a four-legged New Zealand success story: the merino sheep. From upmarket brands like Untouched World selling plain merino shirts for hundreds of dollars, to more basic offerings at The Warehouse, fine, washable merino wool is as warm as polypropylene, and often only a little more expensive. It doesn’t shed microfibres, melt when it gets too close to a fire, get scratchy after a few washes or retain smells like polypro does. Merino doesn’t last as long, either, and is heavier, but there are ways around that. “That’s why so many people blend merino with synthetic fibres, because merino gets holes,” Hall says. 

Even polyprop superfans Lane and Mansill both wear merino for their outdoor adventures, as well as to commute on bikes and around the city. “My merino is more of a fashion statement – but polypro lasts longer,” Lane says. Mansill thinks the trends are related. “I haven’t seen many stripes since the merino revolution took over.”

There’s room for more “fun and outrageous” looks in the outdoors and the city alike, Mansill says – especially for something as iconically New Zealand as vibrant striped polyprop. Of course, those bright bands of colour could just as easily be made of merino: Icebreaker has some not-very-vibrant stripes (although not for base layers) and Mons Royale has stripy-armed layers and thermal leggings with colourful swirls. The latter even jabs at polyprop in its product description: “you can wave goodbye to the saggy, stinky, stuffy base layers and move the way you want to this winter”. 

Of course, that’s just what Big Merino wants you to think. Kathmandu’s Robinson offers some hope for the dedicated stripe base at least. She suggests that more tonal colours, with smaller stripes, might be due for a comeback, or colour-blocked garments with “bold and fun” mixes of solid colours. Lane, whose daughter has inherited her love of both stripy polyprop and outdoor adventures, wants to see the products become popular again. “There will always be a hardcore group who love stripy polypro.” 

Keep going!
The Stanford apartments in Auckland where the author lived
The Stanford apartments in Auckland where the author lived

SocietyJuly 8, 2024

I lived in a shoebox apartment. I’m glad they’re coming back

The Stanford apartments in Auckland where the author lived
The Stanford apartments in Auckland where the author lived

Poor-quality, cramped and ugly as hell – but Duncan Greive was thrilled to live in a shoebox apartment.

In your early 20s you don’t think too hard about what’s going on around you, it just is. We didn’t know it, but in 2005, Auckland city was in the last boom times of the pre-digital era. It seemed normal that there were a dozen venues to see live music on or near Karangahape Road. It seemed normal that there were at least five print magazines paying you to write about music. And it seemed normal that the city was dotted with cranes, many standing up so-called “shoebox apartments”.

The phrase was not meant as a compliment. They were derided as “future slums” by a lobby group named Urban Auckland, which successfully took the council to court over their design. This pushback ultimately led to a rule change, driven by then mayor Dick Hubbard with support of Labour-aligned City Vision, which specified various restrictions to developments, such as making the minimum size of a two-bedroom apartment 70 square metres. As the below chart from the Substack Apracitas Economics shows, the change had a profound and lasting impact on apartment construction.

In 2005, I was only dimly aware of the furore, of the disgust shoebox apartments aroused. In 2005, I was living in one. Named the Stanford, it had sprung up in 2004 on Nelson Street, where it still stands today. It’s just up the road from the Harvard apartments, both built by a developer named Conrad who clearly thought that naming these thin, cheap apartments after Ivy League institutions would confer borrowed prestige. That seemed objectively funny then, and the joke has aged well, I think.

My apartment was near the top of the block and did have expansive harbour views. Otherwise, it was pretty rough. It consisted of two bedrooms, one big enough for a queen, the other for a single. There was a tiny bathroom with a laundry cupboard, a tiny kitchen-dining-lounge and a slightly scary tiny balcony. The whole thing topped out at 41 square metres, or a little over half the size of the new standards. Which is to say that by the time I had moved in, it would have been illegal to build the Stanford apartments.

Living in a shoebox

I lived in the Stanford for most of two years, from 2005-2006. I was a single dad who had his daughter every other week, and finishing up a graduate diploma in journalism at AUT. The years prior had been hard. I’d had my daughter just after I turned 21, while working at a liquor store and being a really bad arts student. 

Attempting to show up as a dad, I quit studying to become a postie, working six days a week for less than $400 in the hand. After a couple of years I left that job under strained circumstances, and took a job at Datacom changing tapes in their data centres. Three 12-hour shifts, back-to-back, alternating days and overnights. That was another couple of years, towards the end of which my relationship broke down.

Through that period finding a home had always been tricky. I moved into the shoebox about when my daughter started school, but she had already known seven different addresses. Moving was driven by a variety of factors, but cost was up there. I was torn between wanting to be a free person in their 20s, and wanting to be a dad. After trying and failing to find a flat comfortable with having a kid around half the time, I ended up taking a look at the Stanford. It was $250 a week for two bedrooms – I could afford it alone.

Honestly, it wasn’t great. These things really were tiny. My bedroom had no window, and there was only a tiny thin slit of a natural light into the other bedroom. The lift had already started to smell, and I wouldn’t say I was proud to live there or loved hosting people. But it was my own place, the first one I had all to my daughter and me, one I could lock and know would be the same when I returned. 

The location was objectively perfect. I could walk my daughter down the hill to Freeman’s Bay School a few hundred metres away. We’d often stop to buy some extremely ripe fruit from Asian Grocer (I’m not being racist, that’s its name) on the way, a fact my daughter still jokes about to this day. Then I’d walk on to AUT. Or, after graduating, to Ponsonby, where I had my first office job at Satellite Media, uploading 140-character music content to the Vodafone mobile site. 

Later that year, I got my dream job – editing Real Groove magazine, a publication I had grown up reading, half in awe of writers like John Russell, Kerry Buchanan and Troy Ferguson. I also started seeing the woman who would become my wife while living in that shoebox. In retrospect that apartment was where I started to get my shit together, started to have a sense that I could be something more than a fuckup.

I’m not here to tell you that apartment was the reason why. It was unbearably small – you couldn’t really have anyone over, or not for long. The carpet was cheap, the fittings were already starting to go. The sense of neighbourliness described in Olga McAllister’s gorgeous essay on growing up in a (much larger) Soviet apartment block was absolutely not present, or not for me at least. The apartments were objectively ugly, though not so bad as they were made out at the time.

But the upside overwhelmed all that. I was right there in the city. As a young music critic, I was a few minutes’ walk from those venues on K Road, and from a half dozen record stores. It was not much further to friends’ flats in Grafton and Kingsland. Those weeks when I was a dad, it was easy. The other weeks, going out was as easy as leaving the apartment. I had a car, but no carpark, so barely drove it. An urbanist’s dream, years before I’d find out what an urbanist was. 

It was what I needed at that time, however much it offended the sensibilities of design snobs and planners. I feel confident in saying many other residents, transient as we often were, felt the same way. We were there because it was better than the alternative. 

All that life and growth was snuffed out at the stroke of a pen while I was living there. Stats NZ data shows the number of “multi-unit homes” – many of which were apartments – crashed from a rolling average of almost 10,000 being built in 2005 to fewer than 2,500 five years later.

If not a shoebox, then where?

Another characteristic of the inner city when I lived there was that homelessness barely existed. I remember vividly an extraordinary double-page feature in the NZ Herald which looked at life among the unhoused then. It mapped specific characters, and if you spent a lot of time in the inner city, it seemed a near-complete survey. 

The idea that you could now map the scale of human misery that a lack of housing has brought to Auckland is unimaginable. As the ’00s wore on, the GFC hit and the next decade began, the city acquired its current reality, with hundreds of people making lives on the streets of downtown and its fringes. It’s now a countrywide phenomenon.

That’s the backdrop of the reforms announced last week by housing minister Chris Bishop. I travelled into the city to see him deliver a speech about housing last week, in a cramped room at the Rydges Hotel in downtown Auckland. He spent long periods wading through the thickets of regulation, through the acronym soup of the MDRS and the NPS-UD, and paid compliments to Auckland’s groundbreaking 2016 unitary plan, which started the process of unshackling land for development and finally saw us surpass the heady mid-00s for construction of multi-units.

But the part which leapt out for me was not technical, it was moral. He announced an override of the minimum dwelling size standards – a return to plausibility for the kind of place I lived in 20 years ago. In front of a room full of people involved in construction and leasing, with tables for Colliers and CBRE and Crockers, he made a simple case. “You know what is smaller than a shoebox apartment? A car or an emergency housing motel room.” That’s our current plan for dealing with people who don’t have a house, and it’s indefensible.

The rest of the reforms he announced are big. They are a continuation of an enormous body of work which started with Auckland’s unitary plan, was driven forward by Phil Twyford’s revolutionary NPS-UD which created a huge potential for urban density, and now reaches a powerful climax with Bishop’s Going for Housing Growth package. 

It’s not beyond criticism – my colleague Joel MacManus points to the dangers of its removal of rural-urban boundaries as having the potential to create plentiful cheap housing where no one wants to live. But to me those issues are less material, and likely to be less impactful, due to the return of the maligned shoebox. 

I left Bishop’s speech during questions from the floor, the first of which dwelled on how to protect valuable growing land like Pukekohe at the edge of cities. There are hard, complex questions of tradeoffs which planners and officials will untangle as best they can.

In an Uber, someone in clear distress staggered out in front of us. It should have been shocking, instead it was routine. 

A few hundred metres up the road, we drove past the Stanford, standing plain and firm in the morning sun. In a few years, maybe there will be a few more like her. And, in time, that might mean a few fewer people wandering helpless and in harm’s way on the roads of our half-broken central cities.