The choice model means people can pick food appropriate to their culture and circumstances. (Image: Archi Banal)
The choice model means people can pick food appropriate to their culture and circumstances. (Image: Archi Banal)

SocietyDecember 13, 2021

Why food banks aren’t the answer

The choice model means people can pick food appropriate to their culture and circumstances. (Image: Archi Banal)
The choice model means people can pick food appropriate to their culture and circumstances. (Image: Archi Banal)

The government has responded to calls for additional support for financially precarious New Zealanders with extra-funding for food banks. But community groups and advocates say it’s not a viable solution to the problem.

The lead-up to Christmas is always a busy time for food banks, but the last few months have seen an unprecedented surge in demand for free kai across the country.

As part of a support package announced this month for Auckland, the centre of the current outbreak, the government has put up an additional $12 million to help the city’s food banks and community food organisations. MBIE estimated that this could translate to roughly 84,000 food parcels. The minister for social development and employment, Carmel Sepuloni, said this was to provide immediate support to “families experiencing real deprivation”.

But some community workers say the focus on food banks that has dominated the government’s response to Covid-19 hardship is addressing the symptom, rather than the cause.

It follows previous government support concentrated on food banks during the pandemic.

In May 2020, the government announced a $32 million investment to provide support over two years for food banks, food rescue and other community organisations distributing food to people with food insecurity. At the beginning of the current delta outbreak, the government directed $7 million to food banks across the country.

Food banks are not a solution to poverty, says Brooke Pao Stanley, who heads welfare advocacy group Auckland Action Against Poverty. Addressing the needs of those living in precarity means addressing structural issues: liveable incomes, affordable housing, racial inequality and more, she says. 

As more and more New Zealanders face financial insecurity, “it shouldn’t fall on food banks to provide food security for people and whānau in Aotearoa,” she says.

In a press statement last week, the Green Party criticised the decision to centre support for struggling Aucklanders on food banks. Green MP Ricardo Mendez characterised the emphasis on food banks as a “sticking plaster on a gaping wound of systemic inequality”.

Auckland Action Against Poverty director, Brooke Stanley Pao.
Auckland Action Against Poverty director, Brooke Stanley Pao. (Photo: supplied)

“We’re finding that the need is a lot greater, but also the support systems aren’t there,” Pao Stanley says. Social support systems put in place during the 2020 lockdown – like rent freezes, increased winter energy payment and making access to food grants and emergency accommodation easier – weren’t reenacted this year.

Because of the government’s unwillingness to pull the same levers this time around, contrasting with the support available for businesses, Stanley Pao says “it’s continually frustrating to hear the government say they’re doing enough”.

Danielle Le Gallais runs Sunday Blessings, a food bank charity she co-founded that operates from central Auckland. Every Sunday evening, rain, hail or shine, the volunteers provide meals to more than 150 people facing food insecurity in the city. “If people have found our details online and they’re ringing me for food, there’s something undeniably wrong with the system,” she says.

Sunday Blessings hasn’t received any additional support from the government during this outbreak. And despite the government funding going to food banks around the city, Le Gallais says she hasn’t seen any knock-on effects when it comes to taking the pressure off their already strained service. In fact, their lines only grew longer during lockdown.

“It hasn’t made a difference because our numbers have gotten higher and we’ve actually had new faces coming to us too,” she says.

Along with the increasing numbers of people relying on Sunday Blessings’ free meals during lockdown, the impacts of the outbreak created more difficulties. Supermarket purchasing restrictions made it difficult to buy in bulk, businesses had less surplus food and, perhaps most notably, the majority of their volunteers dropped off due to the risk of the virus. 

“The quality of our food has gone downhill dramatically over the lockdown period because I’ve had no volunteers for cooking,” she says. Other than help from a church group and local school pastor with sourcing food and supplying home baking, for most of the lockdown, cooking and serving was done by Le Gallais and her 15-year-old son – tasks usually shared among various households and individual volunteers. It meant a switch from their usual hot home-cooked meals, sandwiches, fruits and baking to less nutritious but more convenient food like pizzas. 

Danielle Le Gallais runs food charity Sunday Blessings. (Photo: Rouan Van Ryn)

She’s frustrated at the lack of secure support for food banks, despite the government seemingly relying on them to respond to inequality. “If we’re used as one of the systems to address the poverty that’s going on right now, then they need to know how our system works and what we need and come and talk to us,” she says. 

The government, she says, needs to provide more than just ad hoc boosts of money to organisations. She’d like to see action in terms of social and physical infrastructure as well, such as funding for community fridges and pantries or working towards legislative frameworks around supermarket food wastage. “If we had a community pantry in the city,” she says, “it would alleviate the stresses that all the food pantries are feeling because it’s a 24/7 drop-in place to pick up your food.”

The other problem with outsourcing the growing problem of food insecurity to charities? The people behind the scenes are struggling too – and very often it’s Māori and Pasifika women keeping these initiatives going, Le Gallais says. A single mother of two who’s busy studying law at AUT on the side, Le Gallais says that food bank workers “are actually struggling ourselves. We’re all struggling to pay rent, we’re all struggling to keep our homes clean because we’re frontline.”

Ideally, Le Gallais would like for food organisations like hers to become obsolete. Rather than just propping up food banks, which she describes as “ambulance at the bottom of the cliff”, she’d like to see decision makers support changes that empower marginalised communities in more holistic ways. “We’ve actually got better things that we could be doing with our time,” she says. “We want to make systemic change.”

Beyond being a human rights issue, Stanley Pao believes the decision to limit government support for vulnerable people to food banks makes little sense from a public health perspective. “We can’t ask these people and communities, in the span of a couple of months, to turn around and trust the very institutions that have actually caused so much harm,” she says. 

“It was an opportunity to build some kind of trust,” she says. By supporting vulnerable communities to cover rent, bills and food, she believes the government would have ensured better compliance with alert level rules and higher vaccination uptake. Instead she feels they’ve done the opposite.

Food served up by Sunday Blessings. (Images: Supplied/ Sunday Blessings Facebook)

“Beggars can’t be choosers,” a phrase coined in the 1500s, well before state welfare even existed, is the mantra that sits behind the government’s preoccupation with outsourcing to food banks, says Le Gallais. 

Even though her food bank strives to provide as much choice as possible when serving food, it’s still a limiting model. She reiterates that our most vulnerable do in fact deserve to be choosers, especially when it comes to kai; food autonomy is a key part of maintaining people’s dignity.

“In Asian, Māori, Pacific cultures, giving small amounts of food is not a good thing,” she says. “Having a full belly, a hearty meal, and connection over food is what you’re really aiming for. It’s not just just the sustenance, you know.”

The political decision to direct people who are struggling towards food banks, rather than striving to give them self-determination, neglects the important wellbeing functions of food where people have differing tastes, allergies, dislikes, cultural traditions and dietary requirements, she says. Instead, it’s a one-dimensional view of food that’s simply about survival. 

“These are people that have lived lives and survived lives that we couldn’t even dream of,” she says. “And then they have to line up for food and just be grateful for it?”

Keep going!
Image: Archi Banal
Image: Archi Banal

OPINIONSocietyDecember 13, 2021

I smoked for 20 years. I desperately wish there’d been a cigarette ban

Image: Archi Banal
Image: Archi Banal

Taking up smoking was one of the worst decisions I never made, writes Anna Rawhiti-Connell, welcoming a new cigarette ban.

There are substance-experience moments that seem to remain burned in people’s brains. The time you snuck a couple of beers into your pack for school camp only to bring them home again and get sprung. The time you decided to try legal party pills and spent the night trying to poke your eyeballs back into your skull. The first time you got properly, illegally high. 

I can not, however, pinpoint the moment that I decided to start smoking cigarettes because I don’t believe I ever did. It just happened. I was 18-ish and had smoked socially at parties. I don’t remember buying my first packet but at some point, I morphed into the person who would always let you bum a smoke. I liked that about myself at the time but an affectation soon became a habit and a full blown addiction. 

The accidental nature of how I became a smoker is one of the strongest reasons I support the latest announcement from the government to gradually increase the legal age at which someone can buy cigarettes and to regulate where you can buy them from. Had it not been for the ease at which I could buy cigarettes from any dairy, service station or supermarket, I doubt I would’ve bothered to continue the slide from smoking at parties to smoking first thing every morning for nearly 20 years. 

I moved out of home to go to university, and the intoxicating freedom of being able to buy and smoke cigarettes whenever I liked, without my parents smelling them on me and getting rightfully upset, was part of the appeal. I was defining myself as an adult. 

I always thought I could stop whenever I liked, my young brain coated with a thick tar of invincibility. I assumed I would not succumb to one of the most addictive drugs on the planet, nor the illness that still prematurely ends the lives of 13 New Zealanders every day. 

As time went on, after the initial stumble into being a smoker, I was also convinced that I was choosing to do it and was not “an addict”. I was most definitely not the hapless victim of an intricate and decades-long manipulation by tobacco companies to associate being a grown-up, desirably slim and emancipated woman with smoking cigarettes. Tobacco companies started this particular drive in the 1920s, marketing cigarettes to women as “torches of freedom”. The president of American Tobacco at the time, described the realisation that women were an as-yet-untapped market as being like “opening a new gold mine right in our front yard”.

1970s advert for the French cigarette brand Marigny. (Photo: Apic/Getty Images)

I tried to give up many times. Technically, nicotine leaves the body 72 hours after quitting. The first week is often physically hard but mentally the easiest. Resolve can be a powerful force… for a while. It was after that though – when smoking revealed itself not only as a physical addiction but a habitual crutch – that things got tough. One stressful moment or night out and my house of cards, carefully constructed out of 99 very good reasons to stop smoking, toppled quickly. It pushed me to the nearest ciggie retailer which was always a short walk or an even shorter drive from wherever I happened to be. There are smoking cessation aids that help you break the addiction to nicotine but the habit is harder to break (and yet, easily supplied). 

It really, truly ought to be completely fine, logical and celebrated for the government to ban the sale and smoking of cigarettes outright. Yet they have taken a compassionate, measured and innovative approach instead. This product, which has no net good, persists because we’ve allowed large profit-hungry companies, who do nothing but produce highly-addictive nicotine consumables, to hook people on them young and make it as easy as possible to buy them. We should never have granted tobacco companies the licence to dupe us for as long as they have. 

And yet some say this “ban” is an attack on our individual freedoms, on our rights to choose what we put in our bodies. That implies we had full freedom of choice about this readily available carcinogen in the first place. That we were never manipulated into associating smoking with the construction of a desirable image and certain identity. That the tobacco companies weren’t knowledgeable about how addictive cigarettes were and how hard they were to quit. That there hasn’t been billions of dollars spent on making sure we tolerate how readily available cigarettes are and how ready the industry is to catch anyone on the slide from casual smoker to addict.

I still say I am a smoker, though I don’t smoke any more. Constant vigilance is crucial. I was eventually, and I like to think quite finally, pushed to cessation through a combination of not being able to justify it financially, my health concerns, and dwindling social acceptability.

There are some concerns that what the government has proposed will make cigarettes more illicit and more desirable again. That the falling stock of social acceptability will be rebuilt off the back of some imagined prohibition-era fantasy and black market chic. But even when I was enthralled with smoking, it was never something I’d describe as a good time or an experience I sought out, in the same way people might pursue a great night out or a mind-altering time at a festival. It was a physical addiction, a habitual crutch and a prop I used to create some idea of myself. 

Smoking is a pernicious habit. Very few people wake up and decide to become a smoker, nip down the dairy, buy a pack and smoke the lot that day. It creeps, then locks you in a vice grip – physical addiction and habit applying force from both sides. And up until this announcement, it’s been an easy habit to feed and maintain.

The government’s plan is designed to prevent exactly what happened to me from happening to the next generation. They are moving future generations out of harm’s way by slamming the brakes on the easy ride tobacco industries have had in providing access to cigarettes for people at the ages when they are most susceptible to influence. It is not a blow to your freedoms, it is a strike against an industry that turned a humble leaf into a mass-marketed commercial product that kills, and sold it to you with your milk.