spinofflive
planes, trains, buses and automobiles
There are structural reasons that planes always seem like the easiest way to get somewhere. (Image: Tina Tiller)

TravelJuly 13, 2022

What’s behind NZ’s recent air travel chaos – and why are there so few alternatives?

planes, trains, buses and automobiles
There are structural reasons that planes always seem like the easiest way to get somewhere. (Image: Tina Tiller)

A perfect storm of problems has seen domestic flights cancelled left, right and centre this week. But with costs and climate change a big concern, what other options do customers have for getting where they need to go?

At one point, Shreyas Ramasubramanian had 10 tabs open on his laptop, flipping between them to find the best option. The cloud systems engineer was in Auckland over this past weekend, and had been due to return to Wellington on Sunday night when his Jetstar flight was cancelled. After a long wait to contact a representative, Jetstar offered him a refund or a replacement flight. He took the refund, and decided to look for alternative transport. 

Direct Air New Zealand or Jetstar flights to Wellington weren’t available for three days, seats snapped up by the hundreds of other customers scrambling to replace cancelled flights. Flying to Paraparaumu or Palmerston North then taking the train to Wellington was more expensive still. Flying to Nelson then Wellington was a possibility, but it would have required sleeping at the airport. He wanted to get to Wellington by Tuesday morning, and despite being entertained by the “humorous combinations” of transport options he was conjuring on his screen, all but one of them cost much more than he’d originally paid for his Jetstar ticket. He booked the Intercity bus. 

Weather conditions, Covid-related staff shortages, and “operational issues” have caused more than a dozen flights between major centres to be cancelled this week. While it’s certainly good news for Stuff’s “Travel Troubles” section, it indicates a wider question: why are airline services so tenuous right now, and why are there so few alternatives? 

The pandemic, of course, is a big part of why the airline industry is so up in the air right now, says Thanh Ngo, a senior lecturer in Massey’s school of aviation. “The frequency of flights in and to New Zealand dropped 85% between 2019 and 2021,” he says. “The war in Ukraine and the high fuel costs are making prices in the industry higher, too.” 

Air New Zealand and Qantas planes together on runway
When flights get cancelled, it becomes clear how much New Zealand’s interregional transport depends on planes (Photo: James D. Morgan/Getty Images)

The pattern of cancelled flights and expense and nuisance isn’t limited to Aotearoa; Australia, the US and Germany are all encountering similar problems. The causes are the same: the airline industry made fast international travel affordable for many by operating with extreme efficiency and small margins. The pandemic has changed the staffing calculations that made this efficiency possible. 

In Aotearoa, it’s a classic example of supply and demand. “Covid policy now seems stable, so people want to travel,” Ngo says. But airlines don’t have the capacity they had pre-pandemic; Jetstar has cut regional services and Air New Zealand is desperately trying to hire more staff. “Flight frequency has to go up for the New Zealand aviation industry to recover – there’s a surplus of consumers who want to travel, but can’t.” 

While some of the capacity issues are a product of the pandemic’s economic disruption, the direct effect of the current cancellations is a product both of bad weather and the Covid wave sweeping the country. While some businesses can still run with limited employees, the safety regulations of airlines mean that a flight must be fully staffed. At Massey’s school of aviation, Ngo has seen graduates entering an uncertain labour market in 2020 and 2021 suddenly find jobs across New Zealand and internationally. 

If driving isn’t an option, flights have much more capacity than bus or rail alternatives (Photo: Dean Purcell-Pool/Getty Images)

The effects flow on, too: if a plane can’t leave one airport, then it won’t be in the right location for the next lot of passengers. New Zealand’s small size also means that weather disruption can affect multiple airports. Because Air New Zealand and Jetstar operate as a duopoly for high-frequency connections between the main centres, the likelihood of cancellation won’t stop consumers using these services: there’s simply not much choice.

But the pandemic isn’t going anywhere, and neither are flight-interrupting weather conditions exacerbated by climate change. “Flight disruptions are going to continue for months to come,” says Ngo. If the industry ever manages to recover to 2019 levels, it will be slow. So for people wanting to get from A to B, what are the alternatives?

Well, there’s the train. KiwiRail operates commuter services between Hamilton and Auckland and Palmerston North and Wellington for weekday commuters. They also have a line that runs from Auckland to Wellington, from Picton to Christchurch, and from Christchurch to Westport. However, these longer-distance services are “scenic”, designed for tourists – and priced for them, too. “KiwiRail’s passenger service may be an alternative to some domestic air flights, but this would be fairly limited,” says Tracey Goodall, the general manager for KiwiRail’s scenic and commuter services.

The KiwiRail services feature great views: why aren’t they more frequent? (Photo: KiwiRail)

“Passenger rail has a role to play by providing a low-emissions transport option,” says Goodall. But it’s not low cost: the Auckland-Wellington rail service, which costs as much as $219 one way, won’t resume until September, and takes 12 hours, comparable to a bus. With an alternate day frequency, and a capacity of only 126 people on the Picton-Christchurch service, 189 on the Auckland-Wellington service, and 252 people on the Christchurch-Greymouth service, train lines can’t carry nearly as many people as frequent flights. In comparison, Air New Zealand runs as many as 17 Auckland-Wellington flights per day, and Jetstar around three; most of these services will be on Airbus A320s, which can fit up to 180 people; that’s room for as many as 3,600 people just between those two cities, vastly more capacity than any of the other options. 

Rail can’t compete with flights for speed or cost, although wifi on board, beautiful scenery, and comfort may compensate. Because these services are “scenic”, rather than for transport purposes, they’re not part of the current public transport subsidy, or other government support. Meanwhile, Air New Zealand’s passenger and cargo service has received hundreds of millions of dollars of government money since the start of the pandemic. 

There’s also the Intercity bus, which carried over a million passengers per year pre-pandemic, many of them tourists and backpackers. The bus services go to many places where there are no airports, have a relatively stable pricing structure, and can be booked within hours of when you want to leave. Unlike airports, which are usually far from CBDs where land is cheap, bus stations are centrally located and easy to access for those without cars. But bus services, too, are limited in frequency and capacity, and prices are usually on par with cheap flights – and much slower. (Intercity did not respond to The Spinoff’s multiple requests for comment). 

The limitations of bus and train services reiterate how dependent New Zealand’s transport system is on high-emission private cars and planes, and how urgently that needs to change. The transport system isn’t working for people who don’t want to fly, or live in places without airports. Overseas, robust rail infrastructure means that high-speed rail services are an affordable and convenient way to get around, but – as the trials and tribulations of the City Rail Link show – creating this infrastructure will be expensive. At present, the lack of options for consumers without cars means that when events like bad weather, mechanical failures, or the ongoing pandemic knock out some airline services, customers get stuck. 

For Ramasubramanian, who arrived in Wellington on Tuesday morning, sleep deprived after a rainy night on the bus, his experience has reinforced the reasons Aotearoa’s transport infrastructure needs to improve. “There should be more alternatives for domestic travel beyond flights at a sensible price point,” he says. “We’re well connected by flights but if that isn’t an option, Intercity has a monopoly on buses and the railways are just for scenic purposes.” For now, flying is going to be his default for getting around the country – but he might be done booking with Jetstar.

Keep going!
Getty Images / Archi Banal
Getty Images / Archi Banal

TravelMay 30, 2022

You thought international travel was stressful before? Just wait

Getty Images / Archi Banal
Getty Images / Archi Banal

Flying was always a grind, but the ever-present risk of Covid has added a whole new level of anxiety to the process. So how can New Zealanders rediscover the world without becoming a nervous wreck?

After two years of staying in, people are finally venturing out again. And now that they’re willing and able to go further than the local supermarket, tourism industries around the world are frothing at the prospect of foreign travellers injecting their hard-earned cash into their local economies (Aotearoa included). Those who are travelling are excited, anxious and perhaps a little terrified as they park their tracksuits, pack the swimmers and board the big kite that spread the old spicy cough in the first place.

International travel has always been a little stressful. I can report from recent experience that it’s still stressful, and now rather bizarre. As if it wasn’t strange enough sitting in a giant tin can 10,000 feet above earth, now we do it with the inherent risk of catching the very thing we’ve been trying to avoid.

My family and I were lucky enough to catch one of the first flights to Aotearoa from Melbourne after the government opened the borders on February 28th. We’d tried several times. First during the ill-fated travel bubble in 2021, then February 2022. Finally, we secured our tickets to see our families on March 1. Our three-year-old son watched as I hauled our suitcases from the depths of the wardrobe. “What’s that thing, Dad??” he asked. I peeled off a thick layer of dust and he chortled heartily as I told him it’s a “suitcase”.

Passengers from New Zealand arriving at Sydney’s Kingsford Smith Airport on October 16, 2020 (Photo: James D. Morgan/Getty Images)

Unfortunately, the novelty quickly wore off.  Soon tantrums were being thrown on the airport floor next to said suitcase, while Air New Zealand informed us that our Australian-born children had been blocked from entering the country of my birth. After a 10 minute call to customs, we were manually cleared and having already provided international vaccine certificates, PCR test results and newly required customs declarations, we fled check-in and the many eyeballs witnessing our wee family crisis.

On boarding the plane I was immediately hit with a wave of claustrophobia, as I realised I was doing the least amount of social distancing for a long, long time. As we found our seats I was bumped from the side, behind and in front simultaneously. Despite my anxiety, I realised I’d almost missed the stress. I was back where I belong – in cattle class. The delays I didn’t miss, however. Sitting on the tarmac for an hour, the frustrated pilot narrated the scene below as one airport tow tug serviced several aeroplanes. The pilot dryly informed us that the company had laid everyone off in 2020 and were training newbies on the tug below. I breathed deeply into my N95 as our wailing baby repeatedly slapped my forehead.

It seems my Covid-related travel anxiety is not unique. Brazilian-born Aucklander Bobby Mukai travelled home to Sao Paulo recently: a 42 hour one-way trip. “There was one stopover in Kuala Lumpur, which was really scary,” he recalls. “We didn’t even leave the plane, we stayed seated, people came in and cleaned it and got out.” Having not flown internationally in so long, Mukai admitted feeling mixed emotions. “We were super excited about going to Brazil and super anxious about being on a plane around so many people,” he says. “Not much social distancing, people standing, no masks… It was a bit strange but we had to deal with it because we wanted to go.”

An eerily quiet Auckland Airport, April 2020. (Photo: Andrew Todd)

And while people like Mukai and I feel that flying internationally is now strange, apparently it’s actually a lot less bizarre than it was. London-based Kiwi journalist Andrew Potter had the misfortune of needing to travel throughout the pandemic. “At its peak I was flying around on giant empty jets with cabin crew dressed head to toe in PPE,” he says. “Each passenger was treated as though she could be exhaling fire, Ebola and Covid-19 simultaneously.”

Air New Zealand mid haul deputy service manager Teio IIa was one of those fully-clad flight attendants. “We were all wearing full protective gear including goggles, masks and gloves,” he says. At peak-Covid, a jumbo jet built for more than 400 could be carrying just 20 passengers. Potter says some crews took distancing very seriously. “A 13-hour Singapore Airlines flight served dinner barely 15 minutes after the aircraft had taken off from Heathrow, to keep interactions between crew and passengers to a minimum.”

And if the pre-travel documentation required today is daunting, spare a thought for the early adopters of pandemic travel, says Potter. “In the early days of the Panny-D these tests cost a fortune – one place in London was charging nearly $1000 for a same-day test. At the same time countries around the world introduced mandatory Passenger Locator Forms which were complicated and time consuming… Failure to complete these forms correctly would mean you weren’t allowed to fly.”

Despite many countries now having dropped pre-departure testing, New Zealand’s requirement remainsfor now. With changes occurring constantly, Ila says preparation is key. “Find out everything that’s required of you to make your travel experience smooth,” he suggests. “Each destination has a different set of Covid rules so prepare early!” Hunt for the information on government and airline websites – and take nothing for granted. We foolishly listened to hearsay and PCR tested our 10-month-old baby, only to later realise this was not actually required. Plan properly and save yourself time, money and baby tears.

Demonstrators take part in a national day of protest against Jair Bolsonaro’s handling of the pandemic on May 29, 2021 in Brasilia, Brazil. (Photo by Gustavo Minas/Getty Images)

And don’t just prepare your paperwork – prepare yourself mentally. Many countries have moved on from the pandemic and few rules apply, which can be shocking to Kiwis who are only now experiencing their first real taste of Covid. When Mukai arrived in Brazil, a nation that was devastated by Covid in 2020-21, he found that most locals seemed to have put it behind them. “Things were just normal, life was normal. Nobody wore masks,” he says. “They speak about ‘the time of the pandemic’, ‘back in the pandemic’. They speak as if it’s over.”

The US is also moving on, with the mask mandate for public transport recently removed by a federal court judge. The ruling came as a relief for many airline crew, who’ve struggled to police disobedient and sometimes physically aggressive passengers. Potter also welcomed the change. On his recent flight home from New York, he experienced flying with a barefaced crew. “The maskless cabin crew were a delight, as I could understand what they were saying to me for the first time in two years.”

Most international flights still require masks however, so be armed. Flight durations can transcend the life of a lightweight mask and they tend to absorb the aromas of your in-flight meal, so carry spares – along with some RATs (nobody wants to be a super spreader). Before boarding his flight home to Brazil, Mukai packed 20 rapid antigen tests to help protect vulnerable people such as his parents. “Every time we’d go somewhere that was full of people with no masks, like when I went to a concert with 300 people… we would take tests,” he says. “That’s the type of protection I’d have for myself and the people around me.”

Sanitiser is another essential, but even carrying that is not without risk. “I carried hand sanitiser for a while,” Potter laments, “but abandoned this practice after one incident where the change in altitude super-pressured the little bottle, and when I flipped the lid the contents exploded all over me and the guy next to me. Awkward.” Awkward indeed. And while travelling always carries the chance of catching Covid, you’re also at the risk of contracting a very different virus. “We’ve got the travel bug again,” Mukai confesses. “While we were in Brazil we already bought tickets to go to Australia.”

Despite all the fear and anxiety that might tag along for the ride, positive emotions can and will win. Be present and enjoy. Because it’s not just getting from A to B – it is the A to B. “It’s the butterflies in the tummy when you’re packing your suitcases, driving to the airport, having the family together,” Mukai says. “Doing the trip, watching a movie on the plane, getting to see my family after three years… I really loved that feeling again. Hopefully we can keep it up for a little bit.”

Given some tourism industries are struggling to be resuscitated, with rental car shortages in Queensland and the Cook Islands desperate for workers, it’s probably worth packing some patience for your journey. While research is vital, most aspects of international travel are beyond your control, especially as it’s taking off again during a time of global economic and geo-political turmoil. Challenges will arise, there will be tantrums and tears – and the kids might get upset as well. Don’t be Potter’s ill-fated hand sanitiser and burst under pressure, just control what you can and relish the rest.

And don’t cave to anxiety and stay in (again). You deserve this – as do tourism operators. Because as Mukai says, you’re doing good. “The tourism industry needs you, places like Thailand, Bali, Brazil, Australia, they need you.” They do need visitors. Almost as much as New Zealand needs them. Godspeed intrepid traveller, godspeed.