spinofflive
Frosty Boy
Frosty Boy blinking

KaiApril 8, 2023

Is Frosty Boy the NZ icon we think he is?

Frosty Boy
Frosty Boy blinking

He’s up there with the Buzzy Bee and Footrot Flats in the Kiwiana stakes  – but Frosty Boy’s true origins may come as a shock.

With an ice cream cone in his hand and the world at his feet, Frosty Boy has become one of our most recognisable Kiwiana figures. You can wear the Frosty Boy logo close to your heart, or hang him on your wall, or let him light up your home. We’re so fond of Frosty Boy that Team New Zealand put him on their boat for the 2013 America’s Cup, and one brave soul even got a tattoo of the wee fellow in this touching tribute to New Zealand. Heck, Frosty Boy even made number 16 on The Spinoff’s ranking of iconic New Zealand logos, jammed between fellow culinary titans L&P and Jimmy’s Pies.

Frosty Boy is as Kiwi as the Buzzy Bee and Footrot Flats… right? Wrong. After a Reddit user recently posted a picture of the Frosty Boy logo on a German clothing website, we began to wonder. Is Frosty Boy really the New Zealand icon we think he is? The answer, it turns out, has more twists than a vanilla soft-serve.

1960s: New Zealand…?

According to the Frosty Boy New Zealand website, Frosty Boy started in the South Island during the 1960s. Oamaru-based Milligans Food Group Ltd has owned Frosty Boy NZ since 2007, selling the soft-serve mix to dairies and stores around the country. It’s a simple process to make the ice cream, with water added to the pre-made mix which is then churned and frozen in soft-serve machines.

Logo of Frosty Boy, a blonde boy wearing a red tshirt and blue pants and holding a soft-serve icecream cone
The Frosty Boy we know and love

Frosty Boy NZ doesn’t elaborate further on where in Te Waipounamu their first soft-serve cone was poured. When asked for more details about these mysterious beginnings, Milligans referred The Spinoff back to their website. “Since first beginning in the 1960s, Frosty Boy has established itself as a Kiwi icon among many New Zealanders,” the website states, adding that Frosty Boy first launched in the South Island as a “small independent business”. 

New Zealand was home to many small, independent ice cream businesses in the 1960s, and Frosty Boy’s iconic “often licked, never beaten” slogan was actually used by a number of companies as early as the 1930s. One of these was Frosty Jack, which began making hard-frozen ice cream in Wellington in the 1920s and later sold its products throughout the South Island. Was Frosty Jack the inspiration for Frosty Boy, or was it this similar blonde child who featured on Tip Top’s waxed cups during the 1950s (and who can be found today as wall art in a New Plymouth cafe)? 

Spoiler: it was neither. 

1970s: Australia

It’s not just Aotearoa which claims ownership of Frosty Boy. Across the Tasman, Frosty Boy boasts of being “proudly Australian owned”. While a spokesperson for Frosty Boy Australia said they couldn’t comment on the history of Frosty Boy in New Zealand, they did confirm that Frosty Boy Australia began on the Gold Coast in 1976.

So if we accept the somewhat vague claim that Frosty Boy began somewhere in the South Island sometime in the 1960s, it’s plausible that the beloved blond boy emigrated to Australia a few years later and began to assert global dominance, much like Sam Neill and Jim from Neighbours. 

But hold the cone, because it turns out the Frosty Boy logo – that cheeky little chappy so beloved by generations of New Zealanders – was in fact first trademarked in the US.

1970s: Michigan, USA

A black and white drawing of the Frosty Boy logo, featuring a boy holding a soft-serve ice cream cone
The original Frosty Boy (Screengrab: USPTO)

In 1973, an American company named Taylor Freezer applied to trademark a logo of a young boy holding an ice cream cone. Taylor Freezer was (and still is) a manufacturer and distributor of soft-serve ice cream equipment, and in 1970 it built Frosty Boy Adrian, a working showroom to promote their commercial ice cream business. A 2010 Michigan newspaper article states that “operators would come to [the town of] Adrian and see the equipment for themselves, and as long as they used the machines and the prescribed ice cream mix, they could use the Frosty Boy name”.

This appears to be the birth of Frosty Boy in America, and the restaurant is still in business today (though no longer owned by Taylor Freezer). Fifty-three years after Frosty Boy Adrian first opened, that familiar blond child still adorns their signage, as well as other Frosty Boys around Michigan, including Grand Rapids, Michigan City and Kalamazoo

A group of people huddle under a Frosty Boy sign in Michigan
Frosty Boy loves a wedding (Image: Frosty Boy of Adrian Facebook)

Could a company from America’s midwest have heard about a soft-serve ice cream created in Aotearoa and took it to the American people in 1970? Chris Newey from the New Zealand Ice Cream Association doesn’t think so. He describes the history of Frosty Boy as “quite murky”. Because Frosty Boy isn’t a hard-frozen ice cream, the companies involved with Frosty Boy weren’t members of the national Ice Cream Manufacturers’ Association, which means their history wasn’t recorded in the same way that companies like Tip Top or Queen Anne were. 

However, Newey remembers Frosty Boy being linked to the New Zealand Co-operative Dairy Company (now more widely known as Anchor) in Hamilton. He says they made milk powder (one of the main ingredients in the Frosty Boy mix) and were also capable of manufacturing and supplying soft-serve power mixes.  

“The likelihood is that both New Zealand and Australian Frosty Boy businesses were and still are using the Frosty Boy name and logo under licence to what is now known as the Taylor Company,” Newey says, before delivering the final chilling blow. “I don’t think Frosty Boy could have started in the South Island in the 1960s, and it certainly can’t have started in New Zealand or Australia any time before 1973.”

1980s: New Zealand

Frosty Boy appeared in an iconic TV ad during the 1980s (Image: YouTube)

There’s one person who can clarify once and for all if Frosty Boy is a New Zealand creation, and that’s Neil Tisch. In 1980, Tisch started Taylor Freezer of New Zealand Limited in partnership with the New Zealand Co-operative Dairy Company, and began to sell Frosty Boy products and Taylor Freezer machines around the country. He trademarked the slogan and logo in the early 1980s, and confirms there is a New Zealand link to Frosty Boy – but there’s a twist.

“The actual logo of the Frosty Boy kid came from Michigan, but no product came from America,” Tisch says. To make the soft-serve, Taylor Freezer NZ used an existing product called “Lite Licks” from New Zealand Co-operative Dairy Company, and after making a few enhancements to the original formula, changed the name to Frosty Boy. Tisch’s brother was involved with Frosty Boy Australia, which would import the ingredients from New Zealand and manufacture it for the Australian market. 

The Taylor Freezer Frosty Boy NZ factory in Mount Wellington during the 1980s (Photo: Neil Tisch)

Tisch says Frosty Boy NZ was a huge success during the 1980s. Frosty Boy NZ began in offices in Otahuhu, before moving to a large factory in Mount Wellington, where they supplied restaurant chains like Georgie Pie, Pizza Hut and Wendy’s Supa Sundaes with Taylor Freezer soft-serve machines and Frosty Boy product. With a dozen distributors scattered around the country, it was an easy ice cream for people to get, which made it popular with customers. “It was a huge profit margin for shopkeepers over hard ice cream and it was easier to dispense,” Tisch remembers.

Tisch sold Taylor Freezer NZ in 1995, but children of the 1980s will still remember the catchy television ad that sang Frosty Boy’s praises, which Tisch developed in New Zealand with advertising company Leo Burnett. As for the iconic “often licked, never beaten” Frosty Boy slogan? “It came from my brother in Australia,” Tisch says, “and of course, we bought it in to New Zealand.” 

New Zealand’s dream of being the original home of Frosty Boy may have melted away. It seems that the iconic blond boy we painted across our hearts and boats is actually a Gen Xer from the US, and both Tisch and Newey reckon there’s no way Frosty Boy began in the South Island in the 1960s. Instead, that little Frosty Boy strutted his way from America to Australia and finally to New Zealand in 1980.

Perhaps it’s folklore – or Frostlore, if you will – that Frosty Boy started here, a nostalgic myth born out of a longing for simpler times when an ice cream could fix everything. Either way, Frosty Boy still lives on in a dairy near you. Often licked, never beaten. 

Image: Madeleine Chapman, desig: Tina Tiller
Image: Madeleine Chapman, desig: Tina Tiller

KaiApril 5, 2023

All the supermarket hot cross buns, ranked from worst to best

Image: Madeleine Chapman, desig: Tina Tiller
Image: Madeleine Chapman, desig: Tina Tiller

A definitive ranking, just in time for your final pre-Easter shop.

There’s no seasonal food as intertwined with its season as hot cross buns are to easter. Sure a candy cane is extremely Christmas, but no one is waking up every morning for three weeks and eating a candy cane. Supermarkets aren’t making their own candy canes to cash in on the seasonal popularity. Candy canes don’t replace whole meals in the diets of a nation.

But hot cross buns? Hot cross buns take one of the oldest foods in the world (bread) and make it fun and exciting. Christmas fruitcake wishes it had the cut through that hot cross buns get every year. But sadly not all hot cross buns are created equal. Daily Bread took out the official award this year, and rightly so, it’s a delicious bun. But artisanal buns come with an artisanal price point ($22 for six) and not everyone has the privilege (as I do) of living around the corner from Daily Bread.

The vast majority of us buy our hot cross buns from the supermarket while doing our grocery shopping. Half a dozen buns for about $5 is great value, no matter where you buy them. But which supermarket makes the best buns? And does price or prestige equal taste?

Disclaimer: I am aware that individual supermarkets within a chain may have different ways of baking their hot cross buns. All the buns in this ranking were purchased on the same morning from a random selection of supermarkets in the wider Auckland region. Taste testing was conducted under control conditions (the office kitchen area) and all the buns were toasted on a lovely carousel toaster (thanks to our friends at Supreme for the loan). Each taster was asked to note down their thoughts in one sentence. All buns were buttered generously and eaten hot.

Supermarkets included: Countdown, New World, Pak’nSave, Farro. We’ve included Bakers Delight as a slightly elevated option for comparison, and Costco for the novelty.

Buns in the toaster (Image: Jin Fellet)

The unnecessary: Brioche 

We prepared and tasted 14 different hot cross buns across three different flavours (traditional, chocolate, brioche) and of those 14, the three brioche options were unanimously voted the worst. With little to no spice across the board, they’re basically just…dinner rolls? The Pak’nSave offering was at least an average and light brioche but then if that’s what you’re after, they sell those too without pretending to be a hot cross bun. “Profoundly dull”, “basically just a dinner roll” and “not a hot cross bun” were the overwhelming sentiments from the group. In other words, disqualified.

The controversial: Chocolate

For many, a chocolate hot cross bun is not a real hot cross bun.  I tend to agree but they’ve now been around long enough that they are simply another seasonal offering, with their own merits. Full transparency, I wrote very confidently in 2017 that Brumby’s bakery in Karori, Wellington made the best chocolate hot cross buns in the country. Since then, I’ve tasted many more, including the fancy options, and I maintain that the ones in Karori are still the best if you are of the view that a chocolate hot cross bun is just a bun with chocolate. 

Brumby’s wasn’t included in this ranking so everyone else had a chance for glory.

4. Farro ($10.49 for six)

“Not good”, “forgettable”, “bland”. Thus began and ended Farro’s attempt to be taken seriously in the chocolate hot cross bun race. A dry bun with chocolate that tasted more like chocolate icing than anything else. Poor effort for a rich price.

3. Countdown ($4.50 for six)

By the grace of Farro… Countdown’s chocolate offering could have easily placed last if Farro’s wasn’t so horrendous. They were tiny and strangely dense, “like a chocolate sandbag”, but were saved by the presence of actual (Hersheys) chocolate pieces. “Not enough flavour”, “rubbish”, were a couple of the responses from tasters. However one contrarian wrote in very small handwriting: “I like it lol”.

2. New World ($5.99 for six)

New World chocolate hot cross buns fall into the “bun with chocolate” category and does it very well. “Doesn’t skimp on the choc, that’s for sure,” wrote one taster. “Nice, even choc flavour,” wrote another. One person just wrote “love this one”. And no detractors! Well done, New World.

1. Bakers Delight ($12.00 for six)

Enjoyed by all, even those who don’t particularly like the chocolate ones. With a bit of spice and the chocolate replacing the fruit, the Bakers Delight offering was deemed “the only one that could actually be called a hot cross bun”. “Maintains the integrity of a hot cross bun with bonus chocolate,” was one response. “YES PLEASE” was another. A unanimous winner.

The classic: Traditional fruit and spice

7. Countdown (fruitless) ($4.00 for six)

What is this? If a chocolate hot cross bun isn’t a hot cross bun then what the hell is this? Have included for the sake of completion but my gosh was it uninspiring. Only two tasters even bothered sharing their thoughts. “Is this just a loaf of rye?” And “I got nothing from this one.” You give nothing, you get nothing. An unsurprising last place.

6. Farro ($10.49 for six)

If you learn anything from this ranking, let it be that paying more for hot cross buns does not mean you are getting better quality. This bun was really bad. Like, genuinely surprisingly bad. The bun was huge and extremely dry. Perhaps a triple layer of butter would help but a good hot cross bun shouldn’t rely on butter. “No flavour”, “flavourless”, “extremely unspecial”, “what I imagine eating cardboard to be like”. At more than double the price of every other option, I feel it is my obligation to tell you that you should not buy these. But at the same time, anyone who can afford to do their weekly grocery shop entirely at Farro could maybe do with an overpriced dry bun every once in a while.

As a side note: I once again ask bakers to stop making hot cross buns so tall. We were using an industrial toaster with generous headroom and even so, Farro’s (among others) required extra slicing in order to fit inside. This ranking was based on taste but the bad vibes in a too-tall bun certainly don’t help.

5. Countdown ($4.00 for six)

Again, Countdown struggled with the the shape and texture. “Plain” and “forgettable” were two adjectives thrown out by the panel. “No flavour” was another one thought, though it had one fan who liked the flavour “of the bun itself”.

Worth mentioning here that as I write (days after the tasting), one of the panellists had a Countdown hot cross bun in isolation and thought it was “OK”. Essentially, every hot cross bun on this list is fine when eaten on its own and with enthusiasm. But when compared immediately with others, suddenly Countdown didn’t fare so well. If you buy from Countdown, I’m sure they all taste pretty good. But there are definitely better options out there if you’re in the market for an upgrade.

4. Pak’n’Save ($3.99 for six)

Too tall! These buns were huge, both tall and wide. It required first a heavy squash to fit in the toaster, and then an extra slice. Despite that, they were rather enjoyed by the panel. “Quite dry but nice taste,” wrote one, who probably noticed the ridiculous size and therefore difficult butter-bun ratio. “Nice spice, too dry,” agreed another taster. Overall, a good spice blend but too dry due to being twice as tall as it needed to be. But one of the cheapest so a pretty good deal regardless.

3. Costco ($11.99 for 24)

This one was a crowd favourite and a surprise late entry thanks to me coincidentally visiting Costco the night before to make the most of our household membership. Technically the oldest of the bunch (baked the day before) but they held up beautifully. Opposite to Countdown, the Costco bun lacked for spice flavour but more than made up for it in fruit. “Flavoursome fruit and not stingy with it,” was one review. “Lots of fruit, good fluff,” was another. At 50c per bun, Costco was also the cheapest (albeit inaccessible to many) and had a remarkable operation running to pump out massive quantities throughout the day.

2. Bakers Delight ($12.00 for six)

“Traditional! The everyman’s hot cross bun!” The enthusiasm for the classic Bakers Delight bun leaps off the page. The reliability of the standalone bakery shone through, with no question of quality and a collective endorsement of the “perfect raisin:spice:bun ratio”. Big flat bonus points for the big flat buns. The Bakers Delight hot cross buns were arguably the largest of the lot but were also the only ones to toast smoothly thanks to being flat and wide rather than tall and skinny.

As one taster put it: “That’s how you do it!”

1. New World ($5.99 for six)

Full disclosure: I have believed for a long time that Pak’nSave and New World shared a bakery due to both being owned by Foodstuffs. But if they do, they’re baking two separate batches of hot cross buns because while both were tall, the flavour and texture was a (new) world apart. Where Pak’nSave served up a dry bun, New World had “a nice bounce” and “good texture”. Mid-sized and “fluffy”, it was deemed the “all-rounder” of the group. Not too tall, not too small, pretty good fruit coverage and consistency. The priciest of the major supermarkets, at $1 per bun, but still great value.

New World is the clear winner for best supermarket hot cross bun, summed up succinctly by one taster: “Quite scrummy.”