Arden owner-operator Lisa Penketh whips up a list of her best-loved places to eat and drink around Nelson, with everything from early-morning pies to low-lit whisky bars.
“Home always calls,” says Lisa Penketh. Originally from Nelson, she spent years in Wellington and Melbourne before being drawn back to the seaside town around a decade ago. In 2018, alongside Logan Ursell, she opened Arden, a restaurant and bar in central Nelson. Set amongst wooden floors and leadlight windows, the space bridges the pair’s Melbourne hospitality experience with the produce, wine and easygoingness of the Nelson Tasman region.
Next door, the pair also run Porta Via, a daytime eatery and specialist wine shop. There’s more to come, too.“As ever, I have a few plans cooking,” says Penketh. “Check in and see what’s happening in the Porta Via space – there’s art, workshops and pop ups all lined up in the coming months.”
Eating well in Nelson for Penketh means crudo and boquerones with a bottle of something from a local vineyard, but it’s just as likely to mean a life-giving bowl of phở, or a steaming claypot rice. Read on for some of Nelson and the surrounding region’s most exciting places to eat and drink.
Three words that sum up the food in Nelson: Hopeful, nostalgic, genuine.
Everyone has a dining out pet peeve. Mine is: Bright lights are unavoidable. Or are they?
The best restaurant in Nelson is: I have probably been overthinking this, but given Arden is mine and Logan’s shared hospo loves all crammed into one, as a diner, it’s Arden.
Why I love Arden: Its offering is delicious, quirky and comfortable.
My go-to order is: Always the bread and butter, always the crudo or boquerones, always the house made cheese and likely the porchetta or pasta.
When I’m craving something cheap and cheerful I head to: Jay’s Dumpling Cafe.
The most underrated local gem is: I don’t know if it’s underrated, but Falafel Gourmet is a beacon: yummy, filling, messy and just over the road.
A place I’ve been dying to try is: There are a few loose people in hospo that are about to do some good things, but are currently shhhh. There’s also lots of excitement around the Morrison Square development. I’m yet to get away at the right time to try Elba’s Pazza Pizza which has been on the list for ages.
Celebrating with a group? Book a table at: Brick in Monaco, great food and lovely service – they make space for an evening to evolve. It’s a very pretty setting too.
Pub or bar of choice: The Dog’s Bone. It’s a dive bar/ pub/ burger joint. And they have wine. And music, and lovely faces, and you can BYO dog. So good.
The BYO I keep going back to: Nelson Oriental. Feast it up, there are so many good dishes, the claypot rice and the green beans with pork and chilli are always great, and it always works out pretty cheap at the till.
Got visitors from out of town? I’m taking them to: Most likely the Moutere Inn. All Nelsonians take visitors for a drive to see the pretty places in the region. This is a great stop for a local refreshment, and the kitchen is open all afternoon and into the evening.
An ideal date spot would be: Wafu Bistro. Try to get a seat at the bar where you can see Yuki prepare each piece.
Make sure to order: The nigiri in pairs and the sake in flights, so good.
But I’d advise you to avoid: Going late. Don’t try to be classy and go late. We dine early here in Nelson. Give yourselves time to order all the things without being the last people in the room.
Nelson’s best…
Breakfast: The Craftsman Cafe. This place is proper good. Order three dishes to share between two, minimum. The menu changes often and you don’t want to miss a thing!
Coffee: Tahuna Breakfast Club. Classic flat white for me, usually to take away for a stroll towards the beach with the dog.
Sandwich: Salvito’s Pizza Bar by the slice (I think pizza counts).
Noodles: Depends on the day. Phở from Green Bamboo or ramen from Koharu-Shokudo.
Pie: Wakefield bakery. It’s open from 5am, and so it’s a pie any time for me – always the first stop on a road trip.
Fish and chips: The Prince Albert.
And the best place to unwrap and eat them is: At the pub with my mum, and each with a glass of Te Whare Ra riesling.
Bowl of soup: Hardy St Eatery. Always in season, always brothy and herby, the whole menu is a very good time and the bread is also excellent.
Bread: I’m not organised enough to take home a loaf, but Hardy St Eatery and The Craftsman both sell to-go loaves. Also, for our gluten-free friends, the legend Chloe at My Gluten Free Bakery has the goods.
Baked treat: Visit Clare at Little Dove Cafe for a little Persian love cookie.
What defines a great cookie? Not being scared of crispy edges, showing a little rustic love, baking fresh.
For a serious sweet tooth, head to: Crossbow Coffee Roasters on Fridays, their donut day.
If you’re after spice, make a beeline for: Takor Thai. Order the pad kra pao “Thai hot” – and you want the fried egg on top, too.
A splurge that’s worth it: Arbour. It’s over the hill, so a bit cheeky, but it’s super special. Co-owner Liz makes the connections for you between the food, the cooking and the wine… all in a super respectful and curious way. It’s a treat.
The dairy with the best lolly selection: CJ Asian Supermarket. This is more for the selection of crazy drinks though.
A little local treat that always cheers me up: Penguinos. Ice cream!
My favourite grocery shop: Cook’s Corner. It’s mostly a cheese shop, and that’s just wonderful.
For the best produce, I stop in at: Connings Food Market.
A perfect place to linger over a drink: Kismet for whisky and cocktails after dinner.
My favourite local hospo personality: Hannah “delightful” Walls, our section waiter du jour who is consistently sharing her enthusiasm for dining and delivering the kind and capable service we love at Arden.
For outstanding people watching, go to: Porta Via. Sit at the stools at the bar, and look out the window. Top notch.
A local spot I wish we could bring back from the dead is: Rhythm and Brown, a lo-fi bar with good people, which closed in 2019.
A restaurant I would love to relocate to Nelson: Logan’s favourite haunt when he was living in Melbourne, The Lincoln, would be amazing to have in Nelson. It’s a pub, but also a restaurant. Their drinks list is made up of really brave beer and wine choices, they host great events, serve a delicious menu and have the best team. And there’s Iain’s (the owner-operator’s) laugh.
The place I return to again and again: Doris’ Bratwurst Grill at Nelson’s Saturday Markets. It’s a nice shout for the team before service on a Saturday
Why I love eating in Nelson: We’ve got it covered. For a small place we are spoiled with so many operators and vendors and growers putting in the work and love every season to keep our culinary hearts full. It’s a group effort and I’m glad to be part of it.
