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Illustration: Tim Gibson
Illustration: Tim Gibson

The Sunday EssayAugust 29, 2021

The Sunday Essay: On first going to China

Illustration: Tim Gibson
Illustration: Tim Gibson

In 1977, just months after the death of Chairman Mao, Harry Ricketts made his first visit to a nation finally emerging from decades in isolation.

The Sunday Essay is made possible thanks to the support of Creative New Zealand

Original illustrations by Tim Gibson.

It was Ursula, my friend and colleague in the English department at Hong Kong University, who suggested we should go to China. We spent three weeks there in March 1977.

Our trip was only eight months or so after Mao’s death and the more recent disgracing of the Gang of Four, and visits were still only possible if you went as part of a group. Our group, led by a Canadian called Bud who had gout, chiefly consisted of diplomats and engineers, plus a few extras like Ursula and me. “Pipe”, as we nicknamed him, was from the British Trade Commission. The Panamas – the Panamanian ambassador, his wife and family – seemed to possess an endless wardrobe, always appearing in a different outfit at mealtimes. The Japanese consul and vice-consul were contrastingly immaculate, the former sombre in black, the latter smiling in Levis. Brian, “Redditch”, “Toupee” and “Boring” were engineers. There was also a historian and a geographer.

We left Hong Kong by train, jogging along to Canton past paddy fields and bare hillsides, revolutionary songs piped over the sound system. In Canton, the broad clean streets were lined with eucalyptus trees, and everyone rode bicycles. Outside the museum, children (like Kipling’s Kim) sat astride old cannons. Inside, the porcelain ceramics ranged from antique vases decorated with mythical beasts to their shiny modern equivalents depicting cheerful workers – these, we were told, had been made since the “smashing of the Gang of Four”, a phrase with which we quickly became familiar.

Over an early dinner, we quizzed the tour guide. He told us about the current education system: ages 7 to 12 in primary school; 12 to 17 in secondary school; then two years in a factory or a farm commune, followed by the possibility of university, depending on the recommendation of the community and some form of academic assessment. After yet another reference to the Gang of Four, Bud asked how the quartet had become so powerful. The answer, variants of which we heard at other times, was that Mao was getting old, that they had said one thing to his face while doing another behind his back, and that to challenge them had been dangerous, risking attack and imprisonment. We flew to Shanghai that evening, a red sun sinking over paddy fields laid out like lines of silver-papered chocolate bars.

The Peace Hotel near the Bund was out of an old movie, perfect for assignations and trysts. There was a massive, high-roofed entrance hall. Long richly carpeted corridors led to sumptuous, dark-panelled rooms, slippers waiting outside the door. There was even a cooked English breakfast. It was easy to imagine Bogart as white-jacketed Rick, lounging in the foyer, cigarette in hand, half a melancholy eye on the main chance.

Our daily briefings before and debriefings after our visit to factory or farm or workers’ residential area or museum had already begun to take on a set pattern. Tea would be served in tall cups with a hat to keep the heat in. There would be introductory formalities and civilities, usually including disparagements of the Gang of Four, succeeded either by a description of what we were going to see or a description of what we had just seen. (Brian was soon expounding a theory, much elaborated over the coming weeks, that the routine debunking of the Gang of Four served two purposes: to cast them as “devils”, scapegoats etc and, more realistically, to deal with the fact that China under Mao had been too repressive and so constantly to celebrate the “smashing” of the Gang of Four felt like a second liberation.)

On this occasion, we were to go to an industrial exhibition in the morning and a workers’ residential area in the afternoon. The exhibition displayed much modern work on silk and other materials; one needlepoint tapestry showed Mao in 1928, explaining to the Red Army the Three Rules of Discipline and the Eight Points for Attention; a lantern carved out of ivory depicted a pair of acrobats. There was a film of a lung operation, performed with a single acupuncture needle in the shoulder; the patient seemed fully conscious and was happily eating and drinking. A pianist played Chopin’s Revolutionary Etude.

The residential area, dated 1951, was apparently the first to be built after Liberation: two-to-five storey houses with gas, electricity, toilets, running water; kindergarten, primary and secondary schools; two hospitals, cinema, cultural centre, park, swimming pool, bookshop. The occupants were 90% industrial workers: “In the old society we used to go to the pawnbroker; now we go to the bank.” Men retired at 60, women at 50 (“manual”) or 55 (“mental”) on 70% of their old wages with free medical treatment: “In the new society we are provided with everything from the womb to the tomb.” Three-year-old children sang “I’m dreaming of seeing Chairman Mao” and excitedly wanted to shake our hands. In the evening, during a three-hour revolutionary opera called something like Red Guards at Hong Hu, I fell asleep.

After Shanghai, we spent most of the time in the north, in cities like Anshan and Dalian, visiting open-cast mines as well as the inevitable factories and communes. The engineers enjoyed tut-tutting about factory safety-conditions: “worse than Dickens”, as Toupee put it. It was in Dalian that one evening a misguided attempt at tour-party entertainment took place. ‘Rule, Britannia!’ was sung, also ‘Henry My Son’ and ‘Lloyd George Knew My Father’; Pipe contributed ‘Oh! Susanna’ on the Jew’s harp. The geographer, Ursula and I chain-smoked and declined to perform.

The trip finished up in Beijing at a more modern, but still plush, hotel. There were excursions to the Ming Tombs and the Great Wall. All I recall of the Tombs are great, bare, stone rooms, full of dull red boxes and coffins. On the Great Wall, it was minus 10 degrees centigrade, and we were muffled up in huge blue coats. In the distance we could clearly the snow-topped mountains of Mongolia. Only a small stretch of the wall had been restored, for tourist visits such as ours; the rest was, as I wrote in my diary, “broken & crumbling”. I thought of Qin Shi Huang (247-221 BC), first emperor of China, who both ordered the construction of the wall and had many books banned and burnt. Ursula quoted a bit of Ezra Pound’s ‘Lament of the Frontier Guard’. (Neither of us at the time knew of Edmund Blunden’s excellent sonnet about the Great Wall, written after his three-week visit to China in December 1955. The sestet achingly fuses his own First World War experience in the trenches with that of an imagined “new-set sentry of a long dead year, / This boy almost, trembling lest he may fail / To espy the ruseful raiders, and his mind / Torn with sharp love of the home left far behind.”)

On our last night, there was a formal dinner, every dish (except the jellyfish and seaweed) involving duck. As I noted down at the time, the main China Travel representative had an extraordinarily creased face, eyes “that were barely open” and a “massive, impassive jaw”. He spoke perfect English, but only used it in conversation; all official speeches and toasts, of which there were many, were done through an interpreter. Much mao-tai or moutai, a very popular distilled Chinese spirit, was consumed. The historian described the taste as like “12 horses farting in your mouth”.

On the flight back to Hong Kong, the group exchanged impressions. Perhaps not surprisingly, everyone claimed to have experienced exactly the China they had expected.

Postscript – After our group’s visit to the Forbidden City in Beijing, I wrote a poem rather different from any I had written before which was eventually published in my Selected Poems.

Peking History Lesson (1977)

I

in blues & greens

talking not looking

cheerful workers

amble or pedal

through the courtyards of the Forbidden City

under a whitening six o’clock sky

above each gate

Mao’s portrait

synthetically benign

the wart on his chin

just left of centre

as Lao Tse once wittily remarked

to Confucius: “times change”

 

ii

there used to be incense

& an ox and incantation

as the priests unrolled

the sacred silken scrolls

& the Son of Heaven at the hour appointed

took upon him the sins of his people

“we must learn from history”

said the guide with a smile

as we listened by the wall for an echo

& watched the workers

“educated morally, physically and intellectually”

walk in the sun

under the curved duck-egg-blue tiles

discussing perhaps the example of Lei Feng

who died on the job

hit by a reversing truck

fifteen years ago

 

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Guy Moskon Sunday essay Feature image

The Sunday EssayAugust 22, 2021

The Sunday Essay: My dreams on antidepressants

Guy Moskon Sunday essay Feature image

Ashleigh Young’s medication makes her days brighter and nights much, much darker.

The Sunday Essay is made possible thanks to the support of Creative New Zealand

Original illustrations by Guy Moskon

One night recently, I dreamed that I had given a new manuscript to another poet to assess. I watched as they scrawled huge question marks all over it in pencil, and blacked out one poem entirely, in erasure style, except for one word, like a tiny window in a dark box. They were excited about this one-word poem. “It’s better like this,” they were saying. I couldn’t see what the word was, but I tried to thank them profusely, with a mouth that didn’t quite work, for what was left.

In a poetry reading in 1986 at New York’s 92nd Street Y, Ted Hughes told the audience about a dream he’d had. Before he’d gone to sleep that night, he’d been sitting at his desk struggling to write an essay about the writer Samuel Johnson. He was about 25 years old and sick of writing essays. Around two in the morning he gave up and went to bed. He had a dream that he was back at his desk, trying to write the essay, when a massive fox walked into the room on its hind legs. “Not quite a fox, because he had a man’s hands,” Hughes said. “But the main thing about him, apart from being a fox, was that he was just as though he’d come out of a furnace. He was just third-degree-burned from head to foot. The fur was blackened and the skin was cracked and bleeding.” The fox walked across the room and put its bleeding hand on the page and said to Ted Hughes firmly, “You’ve got to stop this. You’re destroying us.” (Hughes didn’t describe what the fox’s voice sounds like. But we can assume that it too had a lovely Yorkshire accent.) Then the fox took its hand away and Hughes saw a perfect bloody palm-print on the page. He woke up, decided that the fox was a warning, and quit academia. Around two years later, he wrote his famous poem ‘The Thought Fox’, in which a fox appears outside a window on a snowy night and – “with a sudden sharp hot stink of fox” – leaps into Hughes’s brain.

Listening to that recording of Hughes describing his weird tall fox with the human hands, as people laughed in all the right places, I thought, now that is a dream you can tell in public. It has a strong arc, it has enough bizarre detail to be plausible as a dream, it inspired a classic poem. It’s got everything. And maybe it was slightly more socially acceptable to tell a long rambling dream at a poetry reading in 1986 than it is now. At that time, sleep scientists were still arguing about whether dreams really were “a royal road to the unconscious”, like Freud said, or whether they were just cognitive trash, a result of random bleeps and bloops in our forebrains.

But the other thing I thought as I listened to Hughes was, that sounds a bit like an SSRI dream. It wasn’t: these drugs weren’t available until the late 1980s. But the detail, the bizarreness, the blood, the recall – these are hallmarks of my own dreams and, anecdotally, the dreams of many other people who take SSRIs and SNRIs, those commonly prescribed antidepressants that increase levels of serotonin in the brain but that can also tamper with REM sleep, the state in which your brain becomes almost as active as it is when you are awake, even its deepest structures getting busy, and in which – as your eyeballs move rapidly from side to side behind closed eyelids – you dream. 

I’ve tried not to dwell too much on my dreams. Yes, they are vivid and at times truly gruesome, full of chaotic, unfathomable violence, but weird nights seemed a reasonable price to pay for the bearable days that SSRIs have helped me to have. One morning recently, though, I was reading Why We Sleep by sleep guru Matthew Walker, and in passing he mentioned that most humans sleep for 20-30 years, on average, all up. I put the book down and sighed deeply. That night, I had dreamed of an old woman karate-kicking a baby. The night before, that my mother was trying to swim the Cook Strait while she was stung repeatedly by jellyfish and I floundered helplessly in the waves. I suddenly considered how many more nights I had of this to go. It is never a good idea to add up how much time you will spend doing any one thing across your lifetime. I don’t want to know how many years I will spend eating toast, or putting on socks, or waiting for a bus. Thinking about life in this way reduces us to drones flying over the grim repeating paddocks of the human lifespan. But I thought about those 20-30 years of nights. They seemed to me to carry the weight of a whole person. A person who would live only in my dreams, and who would always be messing everything up in there. My dream self is a terminal bungler, helpless and ham-fisted, enthusiastically agreeing with my enemies or unable to speak at all. They give me the same feeling I had when I was very young and had a job in a bookshop and I somehow let a co-worker get squashed by an automatic door when they were rearranging the window display. Something terrible is about to happen, and is happening, but a profound malfunction in my brain prevents me from being able to help.

I started looking into it. Many articles on antidepressants acknowledge that dreams can be a problem. They sprinkle in a few examples of horrible dreams, cite the same 2013 study which found that, overall, people recall their dreams less while taking antidepressants, and conclude that More Research Is Needed. A small study from 2007 titled “Violent Dreaming and Antidepressant Drugs: or How Paroxetine Made Me Dream That I Was Fighting Saddam Hussein” tells the story of a 50-year-old man whose problems abated when he stopped taking paroxetine. Meanwhile, Reddit is full of people pleading for answers, having woken up screaming. (“As I’m walking along a riverbank, I see a knight in full armour approach and pass me. Following him is my first childhood pet, a white and black cat. He has his eyes sewn shut and leathery bat wings sewn onto his back.”) Reddit also has a number of commenters who find their antidepressant dreams cool and are not bothered by them. (“Seroquel dreams are the best. Very informative.”) 

I spoke to the sleep scientist Dr Alex Bartle, medical director of the Sleep Well Clinic. He spoke very quickly and concisely, in the manner of a man with good sleep hygiene, and reassured me that, yes, these drugs are known to affect our dreams, by way of increasing the levels of certain neurotransmitters during REM sleep. But he reminded me that depression itself, and indeed any experience that’s had a strong emotional impact, can give rise to troubling dreams. There’s also the basic fact that what we hold in our mind’s eye, real or imagined, tends to resurface in our dreams. “You know, I’ve never been on a cruise in the Mediterranean, but I’ve read about it and so I can imagine. I can see myself there lying on the deck, you know, with the sun beating down and the water glistening and what have you. So in my dreams, that could come up again.” I wanted to tell Bartle about a recent dream in which I was taken in by a huckster who was selling a tooth-whitening system, which resulted in the bottom half of my face burning off right down to the skull, but I reminded myself he must have people telling him their dreams most days of his life, especially dreams about teeth, and so held off.

What is accepted, Bartle said, is that many antidepressants, especially the widely prescribed SSRIs and SNRIs, suppress REM sleep. And we don’t really know what REM sleep is about. But for many people, the suppression of it causes frequent waking in the night; one theory is that we’re simply remembering our dreams more clearly, since we wake mid-dream. Much more than the old-fashioned tricyclic antidepressants that came onto the market in the 1950s, which usually have a sedating effect, SSRIs and SNRIs tend to raise levels of noradrenaline during REM sleep, noradrenaline being the neurotransmitter that’s associated with anxiety and stress. “And that’s where we get these emotional dreams particularly.” Ordinarily, without medication, our noradrenaline levels go right down when we’re in REM sleep. That absence of noradrenaline is why Matthew Walker calls REM “a therapeutic balm”, a process that can help dissolve the emotions that attach to our memories of our experiences, and that “divorces the bitter emotional rind from the information-rich fruit”.

This phrase touches upon something I have found difficult about much of the research on sleeping, dreaming and antidepressants: I almost understood what it means, and then suddenly, as if experiencing a hypnic jerk, I’m lost. What is the information-rich fruit? I am just trying to find out why I dream of trying to save a blackbird that has been hit by a car but suddenly I have no hands.

There was a period of six months when I tried to go off my medication – a slowly unfolding disaster – and I’d thought my dreams might settle down. Instead they grew more deranged. Even now I think of the dream in which I was using a cigarette lighter to melt my own father, who had assumed the form of a large candle. I’ve since learned that, apart from more research being needed, this was probably a case of “REM rebound”. When you stop taking the medication, you’ll likely get a lot more REM sleep than you were getting before. In simple terms, your brain goes on a dreaming frenzy, amping up the detail. Bartle also sees this when treating disorders like sleep apnoea. “Suddenly they get some REM sleep again and, bang! They have all these incredible dreams.” Still, though, when I went back on the medication, my dreams remained disturbing, in minor ways (opening a can of baked beans to discover that it contains only a single, gigantic bean) and bigger ways (a greenhouse full of unconscious people being experimented on). 

Bartle suggested it might help to write about it. “But change the ending. You’re trying to break that bond, that pathway that keeps on happening, night after night, where you wake up from a dream of being attacked or drowned, or you’ve forgotten something, or you’ve been left behind or you’re lost. Take it out of the dream and write about it.” And take your medication in the morning, not in the evening. Beyond that, unsatisfyingly, it’s sleep hygiene: “You know, meditation, writing stuff down, trying to avoid a lot of screen time, all those sorts of things that people know about but don’t do very well. It’s useful to try and go to bed in this relaxed state so we’re not stimulating these noradrenaline impulses so much during the night.”

A small, sentimental part of me has always held on to the idea that dreams can point us towards deeper truths, often towards great art. I think of Hughes with his fox, Paul McCartney with ‘Yesterday’, James Cameron with the metal skeleton crawling out of a fire and dragging itself along the ground with a kitchen knife. The dream dictionaries I consulted in the 90s and the dream sequences I love in books and films have also baked into me, like permanent indentations in an old mattress, the idea that a dream can reflect our lives back at us truly. Jane Eyre watching mad old Rochester tiny in the distance; Ruth in Jack Lasenby’s The Lake seeing her father calling her from the lake’s edge. For St Augustine, dreaming was a preview of the afterlife, and proof of the human soul. The flip side of the “deeper truth” thing is that it suggests that our dreams are bound up with our character, maybe even our morality. That my dreams speak of some shard of evil deep in my brain.

I’m letting go of those ideas. Let the unmedicated have them. Yes, there probably is a shard of evil in my brain, the garden variety of evil, like a bit of spinach stuck in my teeth. But when I really think about that helpless clown bumbling through my dreams, I detect old, old roots that are simply being unearthed, over and over, as my brain laughs at itself, scares itself, tries to protect itself from itself. It’s almost like it has nothing to do with me. As long as I’m generally happier during the day, then at least for now, until More Research Is Done on the effects of antidepressants on sleep, I just have to let that clown go about her business.


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