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Dhandar dal is best served with fluffy steamed rice and chutney or some other source of zing on the side. (Photo: Perzen Patel)
Dhandar dal is best served with fluffy steamed rice and chutney or some other source of zing on the side. (Photo: Perzen Patel)

KaiJanuary 15, 2023

Recipe: Dhandar dal

Dhandar dal is best served with fluffy steamed rice and chutney or some other source of zing on the side. (Photo: Perzen Patel)
Dhandar dal is best served with fluffy steamed rice and chutney or some other source of zing on the side. (Photo: Perzen Patel)

This simple but creamy and delicious yellow dal was my first meal and, if I have it my way, will be my last.

I’m blessed to belong to a foodie family and when we travel, the question “what will we eat?” occupies more brain space for the entire family than “where will we stay?”.

But no matter where we travel or for how long, one thing remains constant – on at least one of the days, we will eat dal. If it’s a really short trip and we can’t fit dal in, then we will eat it as our first meal back home. Same if we’ve been travelling for days. This year we celebrated Christmas in Napier and since all the restaurants were going to be shut, mum brought a giant box of dal with her on the flight from Auckland. We took over the reading room at our accommodation and indulged in freshly steamed rice, luscious creamy dal and generous lashings of sour and spicy mango pickle.

Because nothing spells home or family more than a big bowl of dal.

There’s many many kinds of dal eaten across India but almost all communities have a plain yellow dal that’s part of their family repertoire. For us Parsis, it’s dhandar.

There’s not much to it. It’s made by combining toor dal (yellow split pigeon pea lentils), turmeric, salt and water and boiling it until it becomes a delicious pot of golden goodness. Of course what makes the dish magic is the tadka of ghee that goes in when the dal is cooking and then again at the end.

Dhandar was the first meal I ate when I started eating solids as a baby and if I have my way, it will also be my last.

Dhandar cooks quickest in a pressure cooker – see note at foot of story. (Photo: Perzen Patel)

DHANDAR DAL

Serves four

For the dal

  • 2 cups toor dal (yellow split pigeon pea lentils, sometimes called arhar dal)
  • 4 cups water, plus more for soaking
  • 1.5 tsp ground turmeric
  • ½ tsp cumin seeds
  • 1 tbsp ghee
  • Salt to taste

For the tadka

  • 2 tbsp ghee
  • 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
  • ¼ tsp cumin seeds

Place toor dal in a large bowl; add water to cover it by around 3cm. Soak at room temperature for at least 20 minutes, ideally 1-2 hours. Soaking the dal is crucial. It improves digestion and nutrition absorption as it neutralises the lectins and phytates present in lentils that often cause gas or bloating. It also helps the dal cook faster!

Drain the soaked dal, rinsing it an extra time.

In a dutch oven or heavy bottomed pan, bring the ghee to heat. Add the cumin seeds and once they sizzle, the turmeric powder. Mix and add in the dal followed by the four cups of water and salt. Cover and cook on medium-low, stirring occasionally to prevent dal from boiling over or burning on the bottom until the dal is tender and breaking apart – about an hour or an hour and a half.*

Allow to cool slightly. Using a hand blender, give the dal a blend until it is a thick, pumpkin soupy texture.

In a separate small pan, heat up the ghee until it is sizzling hot. Add the garlic and allow it to become golden brown. Add the cumin seeds and switch off the heat as soon as the seeds sizzle. This will all happen very fast so be prepared with all your ingredients.

Add the ghee tadka to the dal.

If the dal seems too thick, gradually add in a bit more water. Adjust the seasoning if required.

Serve hot with steamed rice and a spicy mango pickle or Dolly Mumma’s Carrot Chutney.

*You can also cook your dal in a pressure cooker to make it faster. Allow the cooker to come to pressure at full heat. Turn the heat to medium and cook a further 15 minutes. Release the pressure.

 

Keep going!
Image: Getty / Archi Banal
Image: Getty / Archi Banal

KaiJanuary 14, 2023

Ingredient of the week: Lemons

Image: Getty / Archi Banal
Image: Getty / Archi Banal

Were there a New Year honour for a fruit, it should go to the lemon. Hear me out…

I’ve been accused of being lemon obsessed, to which I say, yup.

Not only do lemons have nearly countless culinary uses and the most beautiful-smelling flowers, you can also use them as a battery to power a digital watch, the base ingredient to produce invisible ink, a cleaning agent, and a bleach for blonde-ifying damp hair in the sun. They were the early cure for scurvy and the first main commercial source of citric acid.

I love that you can leave a cut and zested lemon on the kitchen windowsill, and three days later it’ll be dried up and shrivelled, but its juice will taste as fresh as just off the tree. I love that even when riddled with grey “citrus scab” disease, as my own homegrown lemons always have been, their flesh and juice is just as delicious (though not, sadly, their infected zest). That’s resilience for you.

I love the look of lemons, the delicacy of their zest, and their pure sourness. Lemon juice is 5-6% citric acid, which is a higher percentage than limes, twice as much as grapefruit, and five times as much as oranges. Sour and lovely. That’s lemons for you.

Where to find them

This is a lemon lament, one could say, as our lovely yellow friends are scarce over summer – even more so as Covid shipping delays continue to play havoc with lemon imports. The last few water-logged lemons are just hanging on our tree at home, and we’ll have to wait until winter to see local fruit flocking back to the supermarkets.

If you’re lucky, you might find some pricey imported US lemons – $12.99/kg at New World, or a 1kg sack for $10 at Countdown – or even more pricey local lemons for $15.99/kg at Pak’nSave. If you’re inclined to pay $47/kg for some locally grown limes, there’s another happy option for you too.

How to make them terrible

How to ruin something with lemon? A difficult question for a lemon lover like myself. You could over-lemon and overpower a dish, sure. You could squeeze so much over your avo toast that the bread goes soggy and sour. That’s quite gross. Or you could grip a lemon too aggressively and squirt yourself in the eye.

Otherwise, I say no, sir. The lemon is on the right side of history.

How to make them amazing

Lemon and sugar crepes. Lemon vinaigrette. Lemonade. Lemon drizzle cake. Lemon, honey and ginger tea to soothe an ailing throat. Lemon curd. Lemon meringue pie. Chewy lemon cookies. Lemon zest in pastry dough. Roast chicken thighs with lemon. Any sort of fish with a wedge on the side. Marmalade. That’s to name but a few.

Roast lemon and thyme chicken thighs with potato gratin. (Photo: Wyoming Paul)

One of my go-to dinners, and well worth purchasing a $2 lemon for, is creamy lemon spaghetti. Five ingredients, incredibly delicious, easy yet sophisticated, and a way to use every bit of that lemon – rind and juice. I’d happily make it for a date night or for dinner with friends.

Five ingredients, zero complaints: creamy lemon spaghetti. (Photo: Wyoming Paul)

Another recipe tip: quick preserved lemons. Typically a jar of preserved lemons will set you back about $16, or enough to ensure I would never buy them – which is a shame, because they’re a glorious addition to plenty of Moroccan, Greek, Italian and French dishes. Instead of buying a jar, you can preserve them yourself the usual way (if you have weeks of foresight), or try this quick hacky method:

  • Quarter two lemons and flick out the seeds
  • Boil them in a cup of water and 2 Tbsp of salt for 30 minutes or until tender

Done and dusted, ready to be sliced and added to a delicious salad or tray bake.

As well as being a delight on its own, lemon also makes other fruit and veggies better. What a good samaritan! Squeeze some lemon juice over sliced avocado, apple, pear, or banana, and it’ll last longer without oxidising and turning brown, as the citric acid shuts down their enzymes.

That’s why all the fruit I remember eating as child tasted like lemons, and maybe why I’m so fond of the fruit now – I was taught that everything goes well with lemon. I stand by it.

Wyoming Paul is the co-founder of Grossr, a meal kit alternative.